Race pipe report

[Darth Vader]

...added to my CS downpipe. Stock CBE. Definitely louder but, not obnoxious. Vaguely Subaru sounding but, not totally flat in timbre, nor as staccato, like they are.

Noted boost now spikes to 19 and tapers of to mid-17s. Noted some slight missing at high rpm at the higher boost levels. Temps quite cold today, with BATs well under 100 F. Tune is stock.

No knock retard detected but, maybe denser air pushing it a bit hard. AFRs still settling in at around 11-ish under heavy load so, that's still safe.

I think the car may need 94 fuel in these colder temps, over 92. Probably more learning time needed as well, since I didn't reset the ECU and have only driven about 60-70 miles on this addition.

A worthy add on, even though I had to fuss about with fitment more than I expected for a RP made by the same company that made the DP.

 

[Darth Vader]

Hit KR and boost cut big time in these low temps. 94 octane and, for good measure, a shot of octane boost seems to have calmed things and restored normal driveability. Looks like it's 94 only, now that the car's boosting to 19.

 

[MSMS3]

The combo of the dp/rp really opens up the exhaust flow, don't you think? That second cat gives up more than people realize. You'll love this when things settle down. I think your rp will have an additive effect on performance upstream of the CBE. The effect of both mods together seems greater than the sum of the gains from the parts, if that makes sense. This is different than with most other mods where you cannot add up the gains.

I had wondered how the combo would do compared to performance gains from your DP into the stock second cat. I have no point of reference since I did both of mine together.

How is the sound level? Much different? The drone at 2500 rpm got to me and I had to fix that with a third reso. lol.

I too get some boost cut in low temps (or what passes for a winter down here), and occasional but rare fuel cut in low temps, but can live with it. We only have 93 octane premium here. But from your report, I may bump it a bit with some tolulene in the tank and see if that helps.

We are spiking the same, but you are holding about one pound more boost. That may be due to either your aftermarket BPV, the lower temps you have, or there may be just that much variation in accuracy of my manual boost gauge.

Your WOT 60-110 times we have been exchanging PM's about should fall a bit more now and ought to be outstanding. I like using that yardstick for real world validation of how mods actually impact performance where the rubber hits the road out on the highway. Dyno numbers can be all over the place. Drag strip times are so dependent on launch and track conditions. But a simple stopwatch at measured highway speeds can tell us a lot and is highly repeatable. And it's dirt cheap. Look for 8.90 to 9.00 second times (or better) on level road with no wind and 60 degree temps, about two full seconds quicker that a stock MS3.

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BTW I'm a statistics nut and use this data for comparisons:

[published reference range over same 60-110 mph speeds on new current unmodded cars - Mustang GT 10.3 seconds, BMW 135i 10.2 seconds, 370Z 10.0 seconds, S5 Audi 9.7 seconds, Porsche Cayman S 9.5 seconds, Boxter S 8.8 seconds, Charger SRT8 8.6 seconds, BMW M3 8.3 seconds and 2010 Camaro SS 8.1 to 8.3 seconds! ]

 

[Darth Vader]

Yeah, the car actually has a top end charge now, nothing else in the chain of mods delivered that as much as this part has. The 2nd cat caps off your boost levels alot.

94 octane has returned normal driveability and the boost doesn't seem to be tapering off as much. I haven't had much seat time with it but, it's dashhawking holding in the 18 range. Here's hoping my ring lands won't get pushed down by this, we'll keep good fuel in it and synthetic oil in the crankcase to help that out. That's how I killed my last factory turbo engine (2.3 L Ford turbo in a Merkur), 19 pounds of boost and minimal extra fuel. Course that car wasn't DI, or intercooled, or even DOHC (sadbanana).

Noise level irritation can be induced by loading the car up to much in too high a gear. It can be avoided typically and the amount of torque made means opening the throttle more than a crack most of the time unnecessary.