I am attempting right now to tap into my rear door speakers to add a amp for my subs but I took off the door and found (Purple/White and Purple/Gray) connecting to the speaker and then I took off the column panel where the door wires feed through and now in the plug I don't see those two wires. Did they change colors? Am I going nuts? Please someone help me!
Quick Stereo Question (Tapping into Rear speakers)
- Thread starter Ebruess
- Start date
If nobody knows the colors off-hand you can check it yourself by: Pulling the plug that is in the door-jam out, check where the purple/white and purple/gray wires go into the male plug. Match that section of the male plug with the female plug to see what color they turn into.
fourthmeal
Banned
tap into the front ones if you have a non-bose system. Trust me.
its easier to do splice in the rear speaker wires from behind the head unit, thats what i did so i didnt have to take the door panels off, and i have to get back there to do the remote wire anyways
fourthmeal
Banned
Always tap from the head unit's outputs. Use the front outputs, and tap into them with a quality LOC (preferrably an LOC with some adjustments to the low-frequencies, like the MTX ReEQ)
Now you tell us
! all the time I had to spend getting the balancing right after bonehead installer tapped the rear outputs of head unit - so any particular reason why we should tap from front other than forcing balance and sound field to include rears?To the OP - I agree you should tap from the head unit - if you look in the sticky fourthmeal has I think he has a cable chart showing the outputs from head unit to tap to...
fourthmeal
Banned
A non-Bose head unit on the 3 (and other Mazdas in the same age like the CX-7 and 6) has a circuit designed within itself to roll off frequencies in the rear channels. This means that if you tap into the rear outputs (without correcting for this aggressive roll-off problem) you'll have sub-par bass output to say the least.
The way to fix this on the cheap is to use the front speaker outputs instead, which are slightly more flat. The better solution is to equalize the signal coming out of the front outputs to a flat or near-flat output. To do this, there are a few products out there that can work. EQ's will do it, and O.E. Integration products like the 3sixty.2 I'm using will also do it (and about a thousand other things!)
From cheap to expensive, you've got:
Standard LOC ~ $15-25
MTX ReEQ (an LOC that has a circuit designed to restore some of the lost bass) ~ $100
Audiocontrol or other brand of quality Line converter/EQ ~ $250+
advanced O.E. Integration device (JL Cleansweep, Alpine's new one, JBL's new one, RF 3sixty.2, etc.) ~ $300-600+
Hope that helps a bit.
The way to fix this on the cheap is to use the front speaker outputs instead, which are slightly more flat. The better solution is to equalize the signal coming out of the front outputs to a flat or near-flat output. To do this, there are a few products out there that can work. EQ's will do it, and O.E. Integration products like the 3sixty.2 I'm using will also do it (and about a thousand other things!)
From cheap to expensive, you've got:
Standard LOC ~ $15-25
MTX ReEQ (an LOC that has a circuit designed to restore some of the lost bass) ~ $100
Audiocontrol or other brand of quality Line converter/EQ ~ $250+
advanced O.E. Integration device (JL Cleansweep, Alpine's new one, JBL's new one, RF 3sixty.2, etc.) ~ $300-600+
Hope that helps a bit.
