Question on Protege sound

MikeyClutch

Member
:
00 Protege ES
ok 00' protege es, now im an audiophile and live in a place where the bass pounds like tommy lee on pamela anderson....yeah that hard...so i wanna at least make plans on this audio system of mine, ok so i know i have 6x8's in the front door and 6x9's in the rear deck, and my plans are to put 6.5 inch components in the front and custom mount the tweeters, and put 6.5inch full range in the rear DOORS, now will this all direct fit or do i gotta custom mount? and i know i have to take the wires from the 6x9's and put em to the rear doors or just re-wire the entire car with better wire which i will 95% surely do. and the 6x9's holes will remain to put the bass into the car from 2 10'' diamond audio subwoofers. i havent chosen the amps or speakers yet besides the subs, so any suggestions would be great, and if what i said about the 6.5's and all that is 2 difficult what else could i do? what else fits? am i crazy and just put 4 way 6x8's and 6x9's in?
 
Most speakers when you buy them, well all the ones I've dealt with at least, come with the bracket adpapter things, So you can fit the 6.5 in the front instead of the 6x8's, in the rear door the 6.5's just went right in without any modification.
 
The 6.5" 's in front will take a small amount of cutting to get them to fit. 5 1/4's would fit with just an adapter. The rears I beleve are again made for 5 1/4" speakers but small but of cutting allows 6.5"s to fit. I recomend some 6x8 components in front and in back keep the 6x9's there so great for midbass. Im just running coaxials even without the sub people thought I had one.

For the sub I have a ported 12" it hits amazingly low. Ive already got plannes to move up to a 15" anyway, see I like bass, alot. If your subs hit low enough the sound will basicly pass through everything. NO need for the extra holes. The only thing I feel still might need some tweeking is all the rattles I get.
 
you will NOT put 6xanything into anywhere in that car if you think you want

a) sound quality, or
b) bass


in the works now for my '03 mp5

3-way components up front - tweet and 7" in stock locations (hey it works there), custom kicks for 5 1/4"

a single 51/4-tweet in the center of the dash, 'glassed in for center channel

in the rear doors will be an 8" woofer on each side

the spare will be chucked out and a fiberglass tub made to fit a pair of 12"s, with 3 amps right behind the fold down seats, and an amp under each seat with the center channel processor in the glovebox

speakers i haven't decided on, but likely will be the alpine set ($1500+-) for up front
staging correctly is the 1st thing to do

the 8's are still in the air, and i already have the center channel, amps and subs

i should have no less than 5000wRMS when i'm done


and THAT'S how you do it




















so sez a pro, and pro car audio competition experience
 
You dont really need woofers in the rear doors if you have a good enough sub. The rest of the speakers in the rear should be producing SQ. Front you should have a component system set up, My front components are the alpine type x 2 way compenents. Only complain I have with them is the size of the crossover, the woofer is 6.5 and the tweeter is 1". I have the best system around.
 
Round speakers are consitered better by purists. IDK ill take any displacement I can get. Although I am going to upgrade to a set of 6.5" components infront. I intend to keep the back 6x9's just becuase its filler and the ones I have are very efficent so I just run them off headunit power.

Then I have a 4 channel amp in front which I currently have bridged for the front speakers, I dont like the idea of putting more crap into the rear doors. It would just be to many speakers doing the samething. It would take a bit of crossover work to make it sound right. Some 8's might work ok though. Then I could upgrade the sub to a 15" and have it play only the ultra low frequencys.
 
the problem comes when you're jumping from a 7" (61/2) speaker playing nothing lower than 120hz to two 12" woofers - there's nothing in between to fill, forget about going right to a 15, that's B A N A N A S

that's where the 8"s come in ;)
trust me, i've been doing this far too long
 
5.25" Speakers are NOT a direct fit in the rear doors...6.5" are....I have 5.25 in the rear doors of my protege, but the required adapters to fit....

If you are going with components in front, why are you switching to full range in the rear ??? doesnt make any sense to me.
 
I had to custom fab a set of brackets for my 6 1/2 components in my front doors. I epoxied the tweeters into the rear of the sail panels so they look completely stock, and mounted the crossovers behind the door panel. I have an 03 ES, but I don't believe that the doors are any different. As for subs, if you want rich clear bass, then look into 10"s, 12's just add a little bit more low frequency sound. I hate people who throw 2 12s in their trunk and you can hear s*** rattling all the way down the road, so i prefer sound quality.
 
Okay there's LOTS of misinformation going around in this thread.

1. 6-1/2 or even 7" speakers WILL INDEED fit upfront without cutting I know I've done it. and if you want pics, check here... http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73605&highlight=6-3/4

2. 5.25" speakers ARE the best drop-in-fit solution for a P5 or msp. The reason for this isthat FEW if any ppl installing a 6.5 in the back ever think to trim back the plastic rings that extend back from the doorpanel and it wind sup cutting into your surrounds

3. do NOT try to add "midbass" to the rear doors. this is a silly idea. jsut get a nce set of 6.5 or 7" component supfront, and run them off of an amp. Better yet, forget about the rear speakers alltogether, run stock rears off of the HU if you want sound back there, and concentrate on getting nicer fronts with a decent amp to push them.

4. Putting speakers in your rear doors of an ES is really not at all worth your while. You WILL inded have to pull wires into your doors which is accomplishable, but time consuming, and at that you should run those wires directly up to your deck or amp or whatever, but mostly, jsut stick with the 6x9's they're in a MUCH better location if you'r einto thewhole rear speaker thing anyway. Suming it up, your stock 6x9's UNAMPED will push plenty of sound for you. even with an amplified front stage.

5. 6's in your doors, hell even 5's will HAPPILY play down to 90-80hz or so, and then you can crossover your sub at 80-63hz and depending on your slopse you should have a very nice even transition in sound. where ideally you'll feel like your sub is upfront. YES, indeed I am runnign a 3-way setup upfront, but it's 90% sheer excess. simple 6.5" 2-way components are more than enough.

6. Tweeters SHOULD atleast be tried closer to on-axis with your mids. High-mounted tweeters look and seem to be fancy, but the reality of things isthat this creates separation in sound and makes things jump from low to high as they transition up the audible range. NOW there's certainly applications for high-mounted tweeters, often it's just a matter of getting some sound up high, Stock tweeters are put there because low power and so so speakers can be accentuated acceptably, but definately not at any audiophile level. NOW, in the top SQ cars it's quite common to run a SECONDARY supertweeter playing fairly quietly uphigh to help trick the mind into thinking everything's coming from up on top of your dash. but this involves alot of careful aiming, setup, and often digital time delays.

7. a 6x8/5x7 does NOT offer a substancial surface area improvement over a 6.5 and certianly none over an oversized 6. THe round speaker thing is mostly a matter of uniformity. there's ALOT more cars that a 6.5 will fit into than a 6x8, so the industry makes 6.5's

8. Most 6.5's do not come with 5x7 plates, but most 5.25's do. the reason behind this isthat there will be bolt overlap with a 6-1/2 where having some thickness to the plate is neccessary because your speaker will be mounting outside of the standard opening, and not may cars have verymuch room forward to go. as it is in our cars you need to trim off a ring and be careful.

misc comentary by poser:

DAMn this place is gettin ghetto. PLEASE use the search feature. there's TONS of incredibly worhtwhile information on EVERYTHING you could think of inhere. Suprisingly enough, thisis one of the more educated audio forums on the net, and I hope tokeep it that way.

Pair sof any kind of subs, I find to be jsut silly unless it'sa matter of fitment. a single driver of the next size up will almost always give you equal output with less box size, money spent, and power. ESPECIALLY if it means a difference in stepping up to a nicer singsub than 2 cheap lesser subs.
 
Okay, so you seem to be somewhat misguided, take it as you will, but I'd liek to offer some perspective.
keleko said:
in the works now for my '03 mp5
3-way components up front - tweet and 7" in stock locations (hey it works there), custom kicks for 5 1/4"
Umm, WHY oh WHY would you destroy the sound of a nice set of 3-ways by putting the tweeter so far off axis? in-door is one thing atleast they're close to the same plane, but when you put time and effort into making kicks, just put the tweet down ther ewith the mid where it belongs.[/quote]
keleko said:
a single 51/4-tweet in the center of the dash, 'glassed in for center channel
neat for shows, but in use, VERY difficult to setup properly if at all in a car, off-axis seating makes life horrible. It might often be easier to run dual centerchannels.
keleko said:
in the rear doors will be an 8" woofer on each side
This is just a bad idea. getting an 8" to produce enough sound to compare with everythign else you're running for one will be tough, and moreover, your crossover points for such an appication could only realistically be say 80-60hz which is kinda a silly use of a speaker.
keleko said:
the spare will be chucked out and a fiberglass tub made to fit a pair of 12"s, with 3 amps right behind the fold down seats, and an amp under each seat with the center channel processor in the glovebox
umm, only 3 amps for ALL THOSE SPEAKERS??
keleko said:
i should have no less than 5000wRMS when i'm done
umm, are you going to tow a generator with you for this power? Replacing the alt is NOT an easy proposition for a 3gen pro. the few I've seen who had a remote possibility of pulling it off eventually gaveup. and noone's really found an acceptable place to mount a secondary alt.
keleko said:
and THAT'S how you do itso sez a pro, and pro car audio competition experience
umm, what exactly are your preofessional qualifications? sounds like this system has a potential to be showy but form an SQ standpoint it sounds like an expensive nightmare.
 
Poseur said:
...
Umm, WHY oh WHY would you destroy the sound of a nice set of 3-ways by putting the tweeter so far off axis? in-door is one thing atleast they're close to the same plane, but when you put time and effort into making kicks, just put the tweet down ther ewith the mid where it belongs.

correct crossovers and proper tuning takes care of the problem(s) brought on by this arrangement, i've been doing this for nearly 15 years

neat for shows, but in use, VERY difficult to setup properly if at all in a car, off-axis seating makes life horrible. It might often be easier to run dual centerchannels.

hard yes, end result = worth the effort
dual center channels a) won't fit, b) aren't needed

This is just a bad idea. getting an 8" to produce enough sound to compare with everythign else you're running for one will be tough, and moreover, your crossover points for such an appication could only realistically be say 80-60hz which is kinda a silly use of a speaker

it all depends on where i want it to cut, and how sharply i want it
again, i have been doing this for a long time

.umm, only 3 amps for ALL THOSE SPEAKERS??

no, 1 each for left, right, center and 8's, and 1 for the pair of 12's


umm, are you going to tow a generator with you for this power? Replacing the alt is NOT an easy proposition for a 3gen pro. the few I've seen who had a remote possibility of pulling it off eventually gaveup. and noone's really found an acceptable place to mount a secondary alt.

lol, no
second battery in the right side of the hatch, near the door and probably 3 farad of caps
possibility of custom re-wiring the stock amp to get more out of it
costly yes, worth it - dunno yet

umm, what exactly are your preofessional qualifications? sounds like this system has a potential to be showy but form an SQ standpoint it sounds like an expensive nightmare.

i started out in 1993 with a '93 standard cab ford ranger 4 banger
popped in 2 batteries and an alt from a cop crown vic
q-forms in the kicks, crystal components in 'em (out of biz now), a 4" mid cut into the center defrost vent and an extra set of tweets up at the top of each 1 pillar, volume quite low but just enough to help bring up the stage
single infinity 10" woofer in up and under the center of the dashboard in a custom center ported console that i cut the drivers' seat to fit in
3 RF amps mounted to a board and up against the back of the cab
not a square inch of sheetmetal w/o dynamat (in various flavors) inside the cab or doors
i could go on and on and on about the details, but i DID get to nationals level :D

everything since then has been SQ damn good, but half-assed on install looks just because i didn't want or customers didn't want to go that far into details or money


i expect to spend roughly $3500-4000 on this cars' sound system, and compete
and WIN

just picked up a set of these a few days ago:



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they sound incredible :)
 
oh and the amps i have are older than 1996
rockford fosgate punch/power series, you can NOT kill them
i spent BIG on the amps back in teh day and they've outlasted everything everyone i know has ever had, including the crap you can buy now

400w each side, 120w for the 8's (way more than enough), 80w for the center and 1000w for the subs

this is RMS at 4 ohm, btw and i run 'em at 2 ohm, so double those numbers (roughly) and 1ohm for subs

i might even get some bigger ones off ebay or other places :D
 
I guess we'll just be watching the national level SQ championships for your 5 then, eH? seriously man, it's not even worth my time...
 
yeah here we have a guy talking about how many speakers and amps hes gonna put in his car yet he hasnt mentioned that hes gonna have to get a h/o alternator, and 5000 watts rms, lol yeah your gonna need atleast a 300 amp alt, with 2 extra batts and a bat isolator, but yeah you go ahead and run a 5000 watt rms setup on a stock 80 amp alt, your bass will be all kinds of distorted, and will sound horrible, goto www.mralternator.com and talk to a guy nathan. they custom make alternators for any amperage u need.
 
Are we still on-topic?

My suggestion is first, let us know what you plan to spend. I could recommend any number of speakers and/or amplifiers but if they're not within your budget I'd be waisting my time and yours.

If you are a true audiophile you wouldn't be considering rear speakers at all. I understand that you want to use the rear 6x9 holes to allow sound into the cabin but mounting speakers in the rear doors is the absolute worst place to put them. All it does is draw the sound stage back and down. At least with cargo shelf mounted speakers the stage is drawn back and up.

I suggest concentrating your funding on the following items:

1) A decent head unit with equalization and optionally time alignment
2) Plenty of amplifier power for your subs and speakers
3) A nice pair of 6.5" components and a sub or two
4) Installing all this equipment correctly

Only if you plan on adding surround sound and video should you consider rear speakers...and I still don't recommend installing them in the doors.
 
also, dont think that jl audio is the best, there are way better speakers your can get out there that most of you probably havent heard of, like "adire audio" they make some great speakers like the Brahma talk about some bass... the xmax on that speaker is roughly 28.5 mm if i can recall, thats alot of movement, kicker cvr's only have 11.5, and those sound good. also there is "resonant engineering" another great subwoofer, if you have the money go with the XXX it will put a jl13w7 to shame.. with SPL and Sound Quality. the Xmax on that sub is 32 mm, i mean xmax isnt really anything, but it shows you how much the cone can travel staying linear. adn re uses the xbl2 motor which is very efficient. i dont know man dont go spending thousands of dollars one some audiobahn stuff, talk to me first and i can give you some suggestions. and plan your system before u buy any of it. http://www.reaudio.com/html/ is the resonant engineering site. and www.adireaudio.com is adire's site, for sound deadening www.edead.com cheaper and better then dynamat.
 
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