Question on Mobil 1 oil....

shumax

Member
Ok---I decided to run Mobil one Syntehtic in my wife's new P5. I went today and bought it and had a few choices I wasn't expecting. I wanted to by the 5 quart jug at walmart for $17. However, all they had was 10W30 which was fine. Except the bottle said on the bottom "For higher mileage vehicles." that didn't set well with me. I mean, the 10W30 is fine, but not if Mobil 1's version is geared for higher milage vehicles. So, I had to buy 4 quarts of 5W30 that is for "Newer vehicles."

So, did I fall into marketing's scam and become worried about what they say it's geared for--higer mileage vs. newer vehicles? Or is it true that there 10W30 is really for higher mileage vehicles?

The other thing is that I know that Mobil 1 switched to a blend a few months ago--that's might be why my 5W30 says "NEW SYPERSYN." On the bottom it also says "FULLY SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL."

Can someone shed light on this? I really want to get that big 5 qyart jug for $17 but they don't seem to make it in anything but 10W30 which Mobil 1 claims is made for older, higher mileage vehicles.


Anyone?

Thanks,
Curt B. Shumaker
 
Well, i use the 5w 30 with the "higher mileage" sticker on it...I saw the sticker, but I didn't really care. I know that mobil 1 is the best.
 
Here at my local super wally world, they have the 10w30 Mobil1 SyperSyn 5qt jugs in one spot. Then on another spot, almost hidden, they have the same stuff in 5w30, 10w30, and one other weight. Maybe you didn't look in the right spot?
 
Hey I thought our engines only needed 4qts of oil, why were you so interested in 5qt jug? was it the bulk price or something else ?
 
At walmart, the 1 liter bottles were 5.00, the 6 liter box was 30.00, and the 5 liter bottle was 18.00. That's probably why he was looking for it.

I have a question, do y'alls walmarts still carry that 5 liter bottle? Mine seems to be out of it, and I wanted to stock up, ...
 
Mobil one

Well, I looked everywhere in the oil section in three different stores. Yes, I was looking at the 5 quart jug because it's cheaper. I just went ahead and ran almost 4 quarts of the 5W30. I'll run that until next summer and then MIGHT switch to 10W30 and then back to 5W30 when it gets cold again.

I tell ya---whoever designed that filter placement on that engine should be shot---dead. That is the dumbest design. I am glad I read here and got the wrench to get that filter off too.

Curt B. Shumaker
 
Mobil1 Experience

This may be late, I just found this site. I have been using Mobil1 lubricants in my engines since 1978. Here's a list of vehicles and the milage we've racked up:
'77 Toyota Corolla SR5 Liftback - 94,000 miles
'80 Toyota Celica Liftback - 88,000 miles
'83 Honda Civic Hatchback - 104,000 miles
'88 Mazdz 323 LX Sedan - 98,000 miles
'92 Saturn SC2 Coupe -130,000 miles
All of these cars were switched to Mobil1 at about 10K miles. They were run 10K miles between oil/filter changes. When we got rid of them, all used about a quart of oil between changes. I have a 14 year old lawn mower that been on Mobil1 since breakin and it uses no oil during the year.
I also use Mobil1 (oil or ATF) in the transmissions/transaxles. It makes a noticable difference in the way the manuals shift. The Saturn has had Mobil1 in the automatic since 30K miles and it still breaks the T/As loose on the 1-2 shift. Shifts like you put a Hurst shift kit in it. Jim
 
Mobil1 in Tranys

It depends on the manufacturer. The '83 Honda Civic called for 30 weight motor oil in the 5 speed transaxle. The '88 Mazda 323 5 speed called for ATF. Of course automatics take ATF. Check your owner's manual or service manual. Jim
 
Re: Mobil one

shumax said:
I tell ya---whoever designed that filter placement on that engine should be shot---dead. That is the dumbest design. I am glad I read here and got the wrench to get that filter off too.

Curt B. Shumaker
Yeah, I went in unawares at my break-in change, I wanted to do it hot to get all i could out, I almost burned my damn arm off ( I know, get a suit). You know they dont want you to change it, because when you get that thing on a lift, it's a breeze to change, even by hand. Hi ho.
 
Re: Mobil1 Experience

Jim Frye said:
This may be late, I just found this site. I have been using Mobil1 lubricants in my engines since 1978. Here's a list of vehicles and the milage we've racked up:
'77 Toyota Corolla SR5 Liftback - 94,000 miles
'80 Toyota Celica Liftback - 88,000 miles
'83 Honda Civic Hatchback - 104,000 miles
'88 Mazdz 323 LX Sedan - 98,000 miles
'92 Saturn SC2 Coupe -130,000 miles
All of these cars were switched to Mobil1 at about 10K miles. They were run 10K miles between oil/filter changes. When we got rid of them, all used about a quart of oil between changes. I have a 14 year old lawn mower that been on Mobil1 since breakin and it uses no oil during the year.
I also use Mobil1 (oil or ATF) in the transmissions/transaxles. It makes a noticable difference in the way the manuals shift. The Saturn has had Mobil1 in the automatic since 30K miles and it still breaks the T/As loose on the 1-2 shift. Shifts like you put a Hurst shift kit in it. Jim


How long does it take to break in a lawnmower? I have a 140x40' yard and a 2 year old mower, about 40 or so mowings done, is it broken in yet?
 
After the first 5-10 hours of use is when you change the lawnmowers oil. Then after that about once per season. Used to sell them. And that is still stuck in my head after some 10 years. Gahhhhhhhhhhhh get out of my head
 
Ok, only asking b/c this thread is here and easier to ask as I hae yet to find my answers.

Would like to switch to Synthetic soon. Will be Mobil One syn. My question is what exactly weight is best for year round? I don't wanna be bothered by changing weights depending on the season or do I even have to? Never messed with Synthetic so don't know anything about it.
 
What oil weight to use.

I always use what the owner's manual calls for. 5W-30 is the same regardless of the type or manufacturer of the oil. The designation is to define how the oil flows at different temperatures. 5W-30 flows like a 5 weight oil at low temps. and like a 30 weight (thicker) oil at high temperatures. The warmer the oil is the thinner it gets. For example, my '92 Saturn called for 5W-30 oil in the motor. That's what spec. of Mobil1 I used. After about 100,000 miles, I upped it to 10W-30 Mobil1. Our '97 Honda Civic calls for 5W-30 also. Jim
 
Last edited:
MrJoel said:
After the first 5-10 hours of use is when you change the lawnmowers oil. Then after that about once per season. Used to sell them. And that is still stuck in my head after some 10 years. Gahhhhhhhhhhhh get out of my head

Thanks! I guess I'm right on schedule. I changed the oil after the first season, but since my yard is so small I can mow it in 15 minutes. So after this season (really dry summer, I only mowed the lawn maybe 10 times) I'll switch to synth. I told my Fiance I had planned on it, and she of course just rolled her eyes at me. She thinks I'm nuts, but I figure this mower will be the only one we will ever buy until the planet runs out of oil :)
 
Re: What oil weight to use.

Jim Frye said:
I always use what the owner's manual calls for. For example, my '92 Saturn called for 5W-30 oil in the motor. That's what spec. of Mobil1 I used. After about 100,000 miles, I upped it to 10W-30 Mobil1. Our '97 Honda Civic calls for 5W-30 also. Jim
The wider the effective range of the oil (e.g. 5W-30 as oppossed to 10W30) the greater the potential for engine deposits:
Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best.
Now synthetics dont have the same number of polymers as the dinos (the "synthetics excluded" thing) but they DO have them, and they will increase deposits.
 
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