I know these two subjects have NOTHING to do with eachother but I have a battery light on, it just came on out of no where, battery is fine and charging system is fine...some times it will try to go off but always comes back....i'm stumped...I have cleaned the contacts on the alt, and the battery...no help.....now with the lifters...does anyone know if they can be changed over to hydrolic type lifters? or do they just need to be continously adjusted? thanks for all the help
question about battery light and lifter
- Thread starter jscott
- Start date
really?!? I will give it a try
ok cool....any tips of the lifters chattering? do you know if they can be changed over to hydrolic lifters?
yea I haven't found anything on here either...I was just hoping someone would know if it is possible or if it's just easier to buy a shim kit and shim the buckets.
now another question kinda about the same topic, but what type of cams/head work would I need to get about 8K RPM's?
check the link in my signature below.
The lifters are only shimmed once after that there is no need to mess with them. I got a bunch of lifters at the junk yard, took out the shims and shimmed it my self.
if you are trying to get 8K rpm
-stock block, i dont think the stock rods can handle the stress for very long, only matter of time before failure occurs.
-for the cylinder head: valve springs, cams(probably the hardest thing to get for your goal), intake manifold, injectors.
The thing is i dont think the fsde will make any more power up there. Youll be better off spending the money on a bigger turbo. the fsde was designed more toward low to mid range torque, rather then high end power you'll need to change things up to "shift" the power band toward higher rpms. Youll most likely lose alot of low end torque, and that low end torque is what, i feel, makes the protege feel so lively.
The lifters are only shimmed once after that there is no need to mess with them. I got a bunch of lifters at the junk yard, took out the shims and shimmed it my self.
if you are trying to get 8K rpm
-stock block, i dont think the stock rods can handle the stress for very long, only matter of time before failure occurs.
-for the cylinder head: valve springs, cams(probably the hardest thing to get for your goal), intake manifold, injectors.
The thing is i dont think the fsde will make any more power up there. Youll be better off spending the money on a bigger turbo. the fsde was designed more toward low to mid range torque, rather then high end power you'll need to change things up to "shift" the power band toward higher rpms. Youll most likely lose alot of low end torque, and that low end torque is what, i feel, makes the protege feel so lively.
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If there is no need to mess with the lifters how do you get the chattering to go away? I am forging bottem end before I go doing head work, i'm trying to find the best options..thanks for the input on the top end of the FS engine....now another question....3 inch exhaust? is it worth it or are there any real more gains? or even power lose due to less back pressure?? and with exhaust mani's, I know the aftermarket for tubed mani's have a huge problem cracking...are there any out there that don't? or is the stock mani fine if you go bigger downpipe/exhaust? thanks for all the advice also
You'll never be able to get rid of the tapping completely.
If I could make a suggestion, I'd say delete the intake manifold butterflies and get the jdm intake cam. That's what I did and it's made a big difference. It no longer drops off at high rpm. I kept the stock exhaust cam to minimize overlap. You can also try to find a set of twiggy cams but they are pretty expensive and difficult to find.
When it comes to boosted applications you don't need to worry about back pressure. The turbo is a huge restriction, it makes an enormous amount of pressure in the manifold. The reson you want a 3" turbo back is because gasses flow from high to low pressure. Therefore to maximize the efficiency of the turbo as little as possible turbo back restriction is desired.
IMO stock exhaust manifold is perfectly fine.
I have an aftermarket intake mani so no butterflies....is there a name/size of the intake cam or just search jdm intake cam for FSDET? thanks for all the info, I appreciate it
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- Banned For Being A Troll
The valves are adjusted once and unless the cams are changed, there should be no adjustment required.
Hopefully MAXX MAZDA can chime in here, he has done extensive work and research on the valve train, He is the SME on the subject.
Hopefully MAXX MAZDA can chime in here, he has done extensive work and research on the valve train, He is the SME on the subject.
oh ok...I will IM him and ask about that then...thanks
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Correct. Once the valve shims are set for those particular cams they don't need to be adjusted again. (Provided of course no abnormal wear has occurred.)
Ive got a pretty extensive porting job done to my head, as well as stage 3 integral cams and supertech oversized valves and dual springs. Don't think the head could breathe much better. There is LOTS of improvement to be had on the stock FS head, not just in peak power, but also delivery.
I took my engine to 8,000 RPM on the dyno twice I think, and even with all the head mods the FS just doesn't like to spin that fast. I think my peak power was around 7,000 RPM and it fell off sharply after that. These things just don't like to rev like the Hondas.
Don't be so concerned with how high you can rev it, (I think install shield2 still holds that record anyway) but instead focus on making the power delivery more linear. Head mods definitely help this, and I still believe they are one of the best "bang for the buck" mods you can do to the FS.
Ive got a pretty extensive porting job done to my head, as well as stage 3 integral cams and supertech oversized valves and dual springs. Don't think the head could breathe much better. There is LOTS of improvement to be had on the stock FS head, not just in peak power, but also delivery.
I took my engine to 8,000 RPM on the dyno twice I think, and even with all the head mods the FS just doesn't like to spin that fast. I think my peak power was around 7,000 RPM and it fell off sharply after that. These things just don't like to rev like the Hondas.
Don't be so concerned with how high you can rev it, (I think install shield2 still holds that record anyway) but instead focus on making the power delivery more linear. Head mods definitely help this, and I still believe they are one of the best "bang for the buck" mods you can do to the FS.
thanks for the input Maxx Mazda..I will def keep high rev's out of my head...I don't want to reinvent the wheel....these cars have been around long enough that ppl know what works and what doesn't.....time to do some research on what works best on these heads as far as delivery and power combinations...thanks to everyone for the input on everything....and by the way, the battery light was cause by my IAT sensor, one of the wires had broke....so I repaired that and no light (rockon)
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
^^I have a JDM FS-ZE intake cam for sale in the FS section, if you're interested...
