Q bout haltech f10x

[Matthew]

yea thats what ive been asking.

lets assume i cant use the scan tool what things could the scan tool tell me could be wrong...for example, if it says such and such about fuel usage what wrong could cause it? are we talking about wiring, etc etc?

 

[Captain KRM P5]

yea thats what ive been asking.

lets assume i cant use the scan tool what things could the scan tool tell me could be wrong...for example, if it says such and such about fuel usage what wrong could cause it? are we talking about wiring, etc etc?

the scan tool i use plugs into the obd2 port near the hood latch release in the driver's foot well, the other end going to a serial port on a PC. the unit and the software will tell you what check engine code(s) you have have, what your sensors are reading, engine rpm and speed, what loop you are in (closed loop or open loop), what the intake air temp is, what your o2 sensors are reading, if there is a system fault, etc etc etc

 

[Matthew]

how much for everything you needed and i dont have a pc except desktop

 

[HiBoost TS]

By cutting the memory wires, does not mean that all everything is erased. We decided to do it this way, because for the computer to have the closed loop operation working, it needs some cycles to work. This way, if you reset the computer evrytime, then the closed loop will not start working and the CEL will not come on. Everything else still works, like all other sensors, ignition advance, AC, Alternator, etc.

You still need to supply the ECU with a switched 12v source.


Juan

 

[Matthew]

so what youre saying is youre not hurting anything....so what wire is it?

 

[Captain KRM P5]

By cutting the memory wires, does not mean that all everything is erased. We decided to do it this way, because for the computer to have the closed loop operation working, it needs some cycles to work. This way, if you reset the computer evrytime, then the closed loop will not start working and the CEL will not come on. Everything else still works, like all other sensors, ignition advance, AC, Alternator, etc.

You still need to supply the ECU with a switched 12v source.


Juan

out of curiosity, what would happen if you left the wire attached? i do not plan on doing this, mind you, just am curious.

so what youre saying is youre not hurting anything....so what wire is it?

matthew, just going out and cutting the memory wire in your situation will not solve your problems. juan does that for the haltech users.

how much for everything you needed and i dont have a pc except desktop

about 120 dollars. a laptop would be handy.

 

[HiBoost TS]

so what youre saying is youre not hurting anything....so what wire is it?

The wires are #4 and #55 into the ECU those two wires are joint together inside the harness and have constant 12v to the ECU. They are white with a green stripe.

Kaptain, if you leave the wire in the stock position you will get a CEL but will not change the drivebility of the car as the haltech is taking control over the injectors.

 

[Matthew]

so why wont cutting the wire help? the only problem is that my car is throwing a rich code, and pulling fuel...if the ecu is reset upon shut off everytime the code will not be able to come back unless i drive for a long ass distance, and therefore solve my problem?

 

[Captain KRM P5]

so why wont cutting the wire help? the only problem is that my car is throwing a rich code, and pulling fuel...if the ecu is reset upon shut off everytime the code will not be able to come back unless i drive for a long ass distance, and therefore solve my problem?

cutting the wire is done so that the ecu does not throw a cel when it sees it cannot take control of the injectors and go into closed loop. you are still using the stock ecu, not a haltech, to control your injectors so whatever sensor is telling the ecu to pull fuel will still be able to pull fuel.

someone correct me if i am wrong here, but i don't think cutting the wire is going to do anything for matthew.

 

[Matthew]

but the only time it pulls is when the cel is on, so if the cel is off, shouldnt be any way to know to pull fuel.

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

but the only time it pulls is when the cel is on, so if the cel is off, shouldnt be any way to know to pull fuel.

After 15miles of driving the car already knows if something is out of whack with the fuel trims or its ability to put them where it wants them. You cutting the wires only changes the pcms ability to change the code from a pending code to a code in which the check engine light comes on. Just because the light isn't on doesn't change the fact the pcm knows something is wrong and is trying it's best to correct it.

My opinion on your problem is you have a sensor somewhere feeding the pcm wrong information. In which the pcm is adding too much fuel to compensate for it. Putting a ems on when you already have a problem is bad mojo.

 

[Matthew]

thats why i asked in this thread.

so let me elaborate on what you are saying: youre saying that somewhere something is telling the ECU it is too lean, so its adding fuel, then after it adds fuel its thinking its too rich so it starts pulling fuel?

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Kindove... It decides it has to pull too much fuel to keep it where it wants it. It sees it is out of the set specification so it tells you it is running too rich.

 

[Matthew]

hmmm....what sensors could be the problem? im trying to do this with the stuff ive got, so if you have any suggestions that would be great. ive got all weekend to fart around with the car.

 

[Mr. Win]

yes... exactly. I still think your injectors might be ******... did you ever pull those and check em? Did you plan on going to dyno wars? I think you need to just take off work or something and drive and see somebody about your car.

 

[Matthew]

dude i SO wish i could. this is some SERIOUS language immersion im stuck in now and im going to be deployed again as soon as i graduate. we are on week 13 and already i can speak at a pretty high rate of speed with several hundred vocab, read, and write the language.

i dont know how to check the injectors.

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Do you have a voltmeter and a ohm meter?

 

[Matthew]

yea i got a multimeter with all the settings

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Okay here's a list of things you can look at. Maybe you'll get lucky and find one out of spec..

ECT sensor-

cold- 2.2- 2.6 kohms
hot (normal operating temp)- .29- .34 kohms
tip- take it out and put it in cool water then slowly heat it up, keep a constant reading on it and ensure that the ohms go down as it warms up.

IAT sensor-

cold- 2.0- 2.9 kohms
hot- (around 170*f)- .27- .37 kohms.

TP sensor-

Between terminals a & c. (outboard terminals) 4-6ohms.

Camshaft postion sensor-

.95- 1.25 kohms.

Knock sensor-

cold- 532-588 kohms.

Front O2 sensor.

Warm up the engine at idle speeds. Disconnect the front o2 sensor, hook up the voltmeter to terminals a and b ( A C ).
................................................( B D )

Run the engine at 3000 rpm until the voltmeter hits approx. .5-.7v

After this you can quickly accelerate and deccelerate the engine and watch the voltage.

On acceleration it should be .5-1.0v
On decceleration it should be 0 -.5v


**
This should keep you busy for awhile. Again it would be better to do all this through a scan tool so you can see what the pcm sees. Maybe you will get lucky.

 

[Matthew]

im sorry can you tell me where to tap the ect, tp, camshaft, and knock sensor?

and how do i know which terminals are the letters? do you have wire colors?

im not sure what that ....(BD) is?

sorry. but thanks for all the suggestions.