Purge Solenoid Valve

U5ername

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'07 Mazda5 Touring
So I believe I have a bad Purge solenoid valve. Recently the car has not wanted to start after refueling and the idle had been a little rough at times. From doing some research it sounds like this is a common failure for the Mazdas. My question is, has anyone else had this issue? And if so, is it an expensive fix, or is it something I could do myself? I've tried looking for the part but haven't had any luck. I'd rather do it myself if at all possible and if I can find the part anywhere. Thanks!
 
Do you have a CEL?

To clean, simply remove the sensor and spray carb or brake cleaner into each vacuum port. Also, you can check if it's holding a vacuum with a hand operated pump if you have one.
 
Not sure if this will help because I have a 2003 Protege5. I actually had to replace my purge solenoid because I broke it trying to re-locate it when installing my intake. It was about $80 for an OEM replacement from mazda. I used a pair of pliers and a 10 or 12mm socket and had the new one installed in less than 5 minutes. Easy replacement for the P5, and I'm assuming it's probably similar for yours.
 
Do you have a CEL?

To clean, simply remove the sensor and spray carb or brake cleaner into each vacuum port. Also, you can check if it's holding a vacuum with a hand operated pump if you have one.

Yea, I do have a CEL. I guess what ur getting at is that cleaning it probably wont solve my issue?
 
What I'm getting at is unless you pull the trouble code, you are just guessing. You would behoove yourself to download the FSM and check into the issue, but you still need the trouble code as there are specific diagnostic procedures for each one spelled out for you in the manual.

http://www.mediafire.com/?wgev1ww9dc1c27g

BTW, I alway try and clean or repair an item before replacing.
 
What I'm getting at is unless you pull the trouble code, you are just guessing. You would behoove yourself to download the FSM and check into the issue, but you still need the trouble code as there are specific diagnostic procedures for each one spelled out for you in the manual.

http://www.mediafire.com/?wgev1ww9dc1c27g

BTW, I alway try and clean or repair an item before replacing.

Gotcha....u prior military by chance?
 
Ok, so I took it and had the codes pulled, and it threw multiple. P2196 - O2 sensor, P2187 - ?, P0455 - gas cap, and P0131 - ?. Thats a lot of codes, where the heck would i start? I really think its the Purge control valve, but that code didnt come up, or would a bad purge valve cause all these other codes? I just dont wanna take it to the stealership and have them give me the runaround and it end up costing me a ton of money. Any suggestions would be great.....
 
How about just clearing the codes, driving it and see which codes come back. You may have fewer codes to troubleshoot.
 
How about just clearing the codes, driving it and see which codes come back. You may have fewer codes to troubleshoot.

That's what I was thinking. You could have started throwing codes because of the gas cap problem. If you know how to look into the other codes, you could clear them all and start looking into some issues while you wait to see if they come back. That gas cap code makes me wonder about cascading issues though. I'd clear them.
 
I'd agree, but he said it was hard restarting and had rough idle, neither are symptoms of a gas cap. I am inclined to believe there is a vacuum leak and that is causing the cascading issues.

If it were just a CEL and no symptoms, I'd agree. But 4 codes is a pretty good sign something is in need of fixing.
 
I'd agree, but he said it was hard restarting and had rough idle, neither are symptoms of a gas cap. I am inclined to believe there is a vacuum leak and that is causing the cascading issues.

If it were just a CEL and no symptoms, I'd agree. But 4 codes is a pretty good sign something is in need of fixing.

True, but clearing the codes and having no remaining issues wouldn't surprise me at all. I've seen it more than once. It sure is a painless way to start. If the problems still exist, they'll at least throw the right codes in the order which they occur. I would just really hate for a gas cap issue to cause a lot of work for the OP. You never know, it could throw the gas cap code again, first, and the car could need a new cap. I thought that was an issue with these cars. Maybe not.
 
True, but clearing the codes and having no remaining issues wouldn't surprise me at all. I've seen it more than once. It sure is a painless way to start. If the problems still exist, they'll at least throw the right codes in the order which they occur. I would just really hate for a gas cap issue to cause a lot of work for the OP. You never know, it could throw the gas cap code again, first, and the car could need a new cap. I thought that was an issue with these cars. Maybe not.

But would a gas cap cause it not to start and idle rough ONLY after refueling? Everytime I refuel I have to depress the accelerator to the floor to get it to start, and then it idles rough for about 30 seconds. After that all is fine, until i refuel again. I never got a CEL until after the second or third time this happened.

And how would I go about clearing the codes? Disconnecting the battery for 5-10 mins? Or would I need a code reader?
 
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Anything's possible with computers that adjust to problems. Old school ECUs usually only had a limp home mode that was extremely noticeable. Now, ECUs have lots of different remaps and anything can happen.

You can get Autozone to do it. If they tell you that they can't clear them for you, grab the scanner and do it yourself.
 
No, but a vacuum leak would. You can drive around without a gas cap and it won't effect idle or drivability, but the pcm will certainly let you know it doesn't like it.

Disconnect the positive (+) battery terminal connection and let it sit about 10 minutes. I usually touch the positive cable to a ground point before reconnecting, this ensures that the pcm capacitors are fully discharged. When you restart your car, let it idle for a minute before driving just to let the pcm settle in. And you will have to reprogram your radio presets too.
 
Ok, so I decided to do a little diagnostic troubleshooting myself yesterday, and it got me absolutely nowhere. I took your advice and cleared the codes. No CEL, for now. So I drove it around for a while and thought "the only time this happens is when i refuel." So, I have about an 1/8 of a tank of gas, about where it usually is when I refuel. So I pulled over to the side of the road, turned it off and pulled the gas cap off, and let it sit for about 5 min. But the cap back on, and started it up, no problem. At that point I was totally like "FTW". Well, today my wife drove it to work, and then she went and got fuel, and she said it started right up. No CEL, no nothing. What the hell? Would clearing the CEL clear up my issue, i wouldn't think so. I'm so confused right now as to what I should do.....
 

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