well guys... Blew my 2003 protege'5 2.0L manual Engine. I bought a used engine for 995.00 to my door, carfax certified with 31k miles. My older brother and I are planning to swap the engines ourselves to keep costs low. I was wondering if anyone has a step by step procedure on how to pull the engine. We have all the wires disconnected, radiator out, brake line and high/low pressure lines taken care of and everything on right side of engine bay pulled. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Pulling the Engine on 03 MP5
- Thread starter McBadass
- Start date
It's been threw a few owners, and I drove it pretty hard around a year ago for a few months (real fun to drive). It has just under 120k miles and to my knowledge hasn't missed an oil change since i only put on about 15k miles
it's an FS engine lol, it's not that hard to do
here's a basic short list of steps:
--undo the wiring harness, pull it to the side and lay it over the driver's side fender...be sure to unbolt the wiring harness from the starter assembly and the alternator
--remove the battery and the panel the battery sits on
--take off both the belts
--unbolt the power steering pump and the a/c condensor and leave them in the engine bay (that way you avoid having to recharge the a/c system and don't have to worry about getting power steering fluid everywhere)
--unbolt the shift linkage assembly (two bolts on the back of the motor, one for each of the two rods attached to the shifter assembly)
--remove the axels
--remove the heater lines that go into the firewall on the passenger side (you may have to come at them from under the car if you don't have small hands as it's under the intake manifold)
--unbolt the front motor mount
--unbolt the rear motor mount (do this from under the car, if it makes it easier you can remove the support brace between the block and the intake manifold)
--attach the engine hoist to the front of the motor on the hook assembly that bolts to the head above the exhaust manifold...if your engine has it attach the other side of the hoist to the other hook that is near the throttle body, if your engine doesn't have it then you will have to find a bolt that you can attach the hoist to
--raise the hoist until there is no slack in the chains at all and the engine leveler is adjusted such that the engine will remain level (if you are using an engine leveler)
--remove the passenger side motor mount (yes, remove...it's easier than disassembling it)
--remove the driver's side motor mount (again, remove it...it really gives you a lot more room to pull the engine up with)
--pull engine up, ensuring that you have removed everything while you are pulling it up (in case you missed anything on the wiring harness or any lines that are still attached)
for the axels you may run into the issue of the passenger side axel having freezed inside the hub assembly...use PB Blaster on it to get it out, and if that doesn't work then place the axel nut back on it (but not all the way down) and hammer against the axel nut to loosen it out...this is important! if you hammer straight onto the end of the axel you risk mushrooming the end of the axel, which will make putting the axel nut really difficult unless you have a grinder to bring it back down to size
that should get the engine out nicely, but be sure to be thorough while following these basic steps to make sure I haven't missed anything...I've removed and reinstalled this engine quite a few more times than I would have liked to have done, but this is all from memory so I may have forgotten something...this is just a basic guideline
sick thanks man. I'm assuming just follow the opposite of these directions to install along with universal engine swap knowledge? I'm not the mechanic on this job, thats my bro... just a wrench monkey lol
lol, not quite...reinstallation is usually a lot easier, but it's not going to be in the exact reverse order
once you remove it you'll see what you need to do to reinstall it, what I really recommend is that you put the engine halfway into the engine bay (or a little further) and take that opportunity to reinstall a lot of the stuff on the back of the engine while you still have access from above rather than below
once you remove it you'll see what you need to do to reinstall it, what I really recommend is that you put the engine halfway into the engine bay (or a little further) and take that opportunity to reinstall a lot of the stuff on the back of the engine while you still have access from above rather than below
when I swapped my motor everything was fairly straight forward. the only issues I had was a stuck axle in the transmission. I used a wedge and forced it out. pay attention to the heater hose routing, they cross over each other. the wire harness routing is kind of tricky around the starter. and don't forget the vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the passenger side fender hook up, mine fell down behind the manifold so I didn't hook it up and threw a check engine light
thegreatwhay
Member
- :
- Mazda, Protege 5
Hey guys...I know this is an older post, but I just ran into the infamous 'blown motor' also. P5. Thank you for this basic rundown neox.286.
I plan on starting on this, and possibly doing a turbo....but until I break this engine down, I am not sure what I am going to do.
You guys rock....
I plan on starting on this, and possibly doing a turbo....but until I break this engine down, I am not sure what I am going to do.
You guys rock....
