Hi Folks,
I recently did an engine drop on my car as it shot a piston through the block, i.t's a Mazda SP20 with the 2.0 FS-DE DOHC engine, very similar to the Protg (NZ model I guess)
When I had the car mostly together (passenger side axle, battery box and airbox still off) I fired the car up a few times for a few seconds, just to be sure I had the engine correctly mated to transmission. Everything seemed to be working correctly.
On the third time of attempting to do this, once I had the axle in the car wouldn't start and a small amount of smoke came from ground 2 very small ground terminals one on the white clip of about 8 wires at the top of the head and the other from a small wire behind the drivers side strut. Seemed to me fairly obvious that ground was not correctly made and was trying to pass the path of least resistance (as the ground wiring was haphazardly on). At this time I noticed the temp gauge was flicking to 'H' / hot when the ignition was in ACC mode (the car has been sitting for 6 months, so I am certain it's not hot..)
As my multimeter wasn't working I decided to carry on and just get everything together, figuring once the ground all buttoned down I could replace a main fuse or something, relatively easy. ha, ha, ha.
Now the car is together I am still facing the same issue, engine cranks, injectors have no fuel and there is no spark.
I brought a new multimeter and checked the voltage in the following areas:
* Between the positive and negative of the battery = 12.56
* Between the negative battery terminal and the engine block whilst cranking = 0
* Between the negative battery terminal and the transmission whilst cranking = 0
* Between the negative battery terminal and various light related fuses (while the car was off) = 0
* Between the negative battery terminal and other fuses, AC, injectors, main fuse (100a) = 12.56
* Between the negative battery terminal and the GREEN main fuse = 0
In ACC mode all the various electrics are working, head lights, AC, indicators, stereo and brake lights.
So the obvious on is the GREEN main fuse which I expected 12.56 out of. To do my test I cracked the fuse casing and had the multimeter against the coil inside the fuse. What I noticed while doing that is there is some sort of failover / switch inside of the fuse? What is that, and how does it work?????? If I press the metal piece in and put the car into ACC I no longer get the temp gauge going to 'H' / hot, I could also hear things (not sure what) clicking over for a few seconds in the engine bay. I didn't attempt to, however I expect that the car would probably crank and fire over with that depressed.
I went and brought another fuse and still the same issue, so I know the fuse isn't dodgy.
The battery is not loosing charge after a week of sitting in the car, so I don't think there is a short anywhere.
I've double checked all the connections from the engine harness from the engine side firewall and everything is tight and connected (injectors, starter, alternator). I have checked every plug from the loom through to the engine and transmission, can't see anything that is missing, and besides, the car started previously..
Can anyone tell me the standard ground points, so I can check over them? And how that green fuse works?
Thanks,
T.
I recently did an engine drop on my car as it shot a piston through the block, i.t's a Mazda SP20 with the 2.0 FS-DE DOHC engine, very similar to the Protg (NZ model I guess)
When I had the car mostly together (passenger side axle, battery box and airbox still off) I fired the car up a few times for a few seconds, just to be sure I had the engine correctly mated to transmission. Everything seemed to be working correctly.
On the third time of attempting to do this, once I had the axle in the car wouldn't start and a small amount of smoke came from ground 2 very small ground terminals one on the white clip of about 8 wires at the top of the head and the other from a small wire behind the drivers side strut. Seemed to me fairly obvious that ground was not correctly made and was trying to pass the path of least resistance (as the ground wiring was haphazardly on). At this time I noticed the temp gauge was flicking to 'H' / hot when the ignition was in ACC mode (the car has been sitting for 6 months, so I am certain it's not hot..)
As my multimeter wasn't working I decided to carry on and just get everything together, figuring once the ground all buttoned down I could replace a main fuse or something, relatively easy. ha, ha, ha.
Now the car is together I am still facing the same issue, engine cranks, injectors have no fuel and there is no spark.
I brought a new multimeter and checked the voltage in the following areas:
* Between the positive and negative of the battery = 12.56
* Between the negative battery terminal and the engine block whilst cranking = 0
* Between the negative battery terminal and the transmission whilst cranking = 0
* Between the negative battery terminal and various light related fuses (while the car was off) = 0
* Between the negative battery terminal and other fuses, AC, injectors, main fuse (100a) = 12.56
* Between the negative battery terminal and the GREEN main fuse = 0
In ACC mode all the various electrics are working, head lights, AC, indicators, stereo and brake lights.
So the obvious on is the GREEN main fuse which I expected 12.56 out of. To do my test I cracked the fuse casing and had the multimeter against the coil inside the fuse. What I noticed while doing that is there is some sort of failover / switch inside of the fuse? What is that, and how does it work?????? If I press the metal piece in and put the car into ACC I no longer get the temp gauge going to 'H' / hot, I could also hear things (not sure what) clicking over for a few seconds in the engine bay. I didn't attempt to, however I expect that the car would probably crank and fire over with that depressed.
I went and brought another fuse and still the same issue, so I know the fuse isn't dodgy.
The battery is not loosing charge after a week of sitting in the car, so I don't think there is a short anywhere.
I've double checked all the connections from the engine harness from the engine side firewall and everything is tight and connected (injectors, starter, alternator). I have checked every plug from the loom through to the engine and transmission, can't see anything that is missing, and besides, the car started previously..
Can anyone tell me the standard ground points, so I can check over them? And how that green fuse works?
Thanks,
T.
