Progress update with some pretty pictures.
- Thread starter DuRWooD
- Start date
Well there is a few things you can do for the temp gauge. First off did you end up with an OBD1 or OBD2 harness? If OBD1 with a ZE run the kl36 ecu and u dont have to worry about egr crap. Also it has the proper timing and vris points for the motor. My plan is to hook up the fsde temp sender and hoop it up to the 2l portion of the harness so the cluster sees a signal.
Honestly the mechanical part of the swap isnt hard at all. All bolt on and if you want to be cheap just get a trashed v6 tranny and swap the bell housing to the 2l tranny. You can run the protege rad but you needs to make some stepdowns for the hoses since the protege has smaller in/outlets. Havent looked at the powersteering lines much yet since u can drive without ps if your a decent size lol.
Leaving the 2l harness in and keeping it as is until its running is the best bet and you can remove unneeded portions of the harness later like injector wiring and coil pack wiring and stuff.
Another thing i though of is the batter hookups, your gonna have 2. One for 2l harness and one for v6. Migth be easier if u got a battery connector liek for after market stereos so you have a free space to but the other power and grounds.
As for tach im not sure if the ecu or the tach does the work. If it was the ecu then you could cut the 2l wire for the tach and splice in the kl wire but i doubt that will work and dont plan on testing it for some time if at all.
I do have a question about the rad fan though. How well is yours working and how did you hook it up? stock 2l wont controll it since its not getting information about the temp and i didnt check if the v6 harness has the hook up for it or not.
Honestly the mechanical part of the swap isnt hard at all. All bolt on and if you want to be cheap just get a trashed v6 tranny and swap the bell housing to the 2l tranny. You can run the protege rad but you needs to make some stepdowns for the hoses since the protege has smaller in/outlets. Havent looked at the powersteering lines much yet since u can drive without ps if your a decent size lol.
Leaving the 2l harness in and keeping it as is until its running is the best bet and you can remove unneeded portions of the harness later like injector wiring and coil pack wiring and stuff.
Another thing i though of is the batter hookups, your gonna have 2. One for 2l harness and one for v6. Migth be easier if u got a battery connector liek for after market stereos so you have a free space to but the other power and grounds.
As for tach im not sure if the ecu or the tach does the work. If it was the ecu then you could cut the 2l wire for the tach and splice in the kl wire but i doubt that will work and dont plan on testing it for some time if at all.
I do have a question about the rad fan though. How well is yours working and how did you hook it up? stock 2l wont controll it since its not getting information about the temp and i didnt check if the v6 harness has the hook up for it or not.
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so you'll have 2 temp sensors? thats really the *only* option unfortunately. you'll also need the fsde ecu in there to read the sensor and output to the gauge cluster.
you wont need 2 battery hookups - the ecu uses a 12v power wire, and a trigger switch to turn it on (normally from the ignition barrel and imobilizer) - you can jump these wires from the kl ecu...but for ease of operation, i'd run the 2L ecu to the ignition wiring, and have the 2L ecu start the KL ecu when it is turned on....2 wires at worst though..
the fsde ecu gets the tach signal from the cam and crank angle sensors - which will be different on the 6cyl. You'll need to convert the signal from a 6 cylinder pulse to a 4cyl pulse - there are electronic gizmos that are available from a few places that do this for you... but yeah, the 2L ecu isn't going to have a clue what to do with the signals for a 6cyl engine. You'll need to read the pulses from the 6cyl ignition or crank sensor, convert it into the pulses the fsde ecu needs and feed that into the fsde ecu. I suspect you'll need a bit of time with the oscilloscope to get it right.
with water temp enabled on the 2L ecu it should work. without, it should run both fans all the time. You can probably just go get a themocouple or something and rig up your own circuit to run it though....
subsonicman
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Portege 5
How long till we get more info, and A lot more pictures
Well on our swap we started cleanin up the KL harness and feeding power to the kl ecu but we ran into a few issues.
For some reason were getting power to what appear to be a common ground for the sensors and cant find out why.
On the larger pin for the dizzy were getting power at both ends, not supposed to be that way. When we check the ground at the tps its also getting power on the ground wire.
Once we figure that out it will be ready to start.
At the ecu we found a pin that needs constant power, one that wants switched power and a startinput signal. I can get the locations for these pins next saturday and they seam to be the same for all kl ecu's.
For some reason were getting power to what appear to be a common ground for the sensors and cant find out why.
On the larger pin for the dizzy were getting power at both ends, not supposed to be that way. When we check the ground at the tps its also getting power on the ground wire.
Once we figure that out it will be ready to start.
At the ecu we found a pin that needs constant power, one that wants switched power and a startinput signal. I can get the locations for these pins next saturday and they seam to be the same for all kl ecu's.
here is a link anyone doing the swap will NEED to hold onto...
http://forums.probetalk.com/archive/index.php/t-1701065429.html
ECU pinout '94 vs '95 pin differences [in brackets]/'93 differences in double asterisk (**) {Omaha95PGT-Marc M.}
Connector C246 (the left connector with 26 pins)
this pinout is facing the ECU/harnesses while it's still plugged in the car with the wires coming out at you.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
1) #5 fuel injector
2) #3 fuel injector
3) #1 fuel injector
4) not used
5) Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid output
6) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) vent solenoid
7) Fuel Pressure Regulator Control (FPRC) solenoid output
8) not used
9) VRIS #1 output
10) Ground Signal (Cylinder Identification [CID]) input
11) NE1 CKPS input (probably the camshaft position sensor in the distributor) ['95 not used]
12) Ground (CPU)
13) Ground (out)
14) #6 fuel injector
15) #4 fuel injector
16) #2 fuel injector
17) Fuel Pump Relay output
18) not used ['95 Crankshaft Position Signal (CPKs)]
19) EGR vacuum solenoid
20) High condenser-fan ['95 low speed condenser fan control-I think it's the same]
21) Low cooling-fan
22) VRIS #2 output
23) Cylinder Identification (CID) signal
24) NE2 CKPS ground ['95 Crankshaft Position Signal (CKPS) ?ground]
25) Ground (input)
26) Ground (out)
Connector C247 (middle connector with 16 pins)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
1) Canister purge solenoid output
2) Knock sensor input
3) IAT input
4) +5V reference out
5) not used **'93 Engine Coolant Temp (Fan) [ECTF]**
6) Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS) input
7) Right Heated O2 Sensor (RHO2S) input <front head>
8) BARO sensor output (ATX)
9) High coolant fan (aka high speed condenser fan control)
10) not used
11) DRL load (Canadian only) (Daytime Running Lights)
12) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve position input
13) A/C High pressure input
14) Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) input
15) Left Heated O2 Sensor (LHO2S) input <rear head>
16) Volumetric Air Flow (VAF) sensor input
Connector C248 (the right connector with 22 pins)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
1) Module ground
2) Reduce Torque Signal 1 input (ATX)
3) Brakelamp load input (ATX)
4) A/C dash switch [on/off] and Low Pressure input
5) VSS input (Vehicle Speed Sensor [+])
6) Torque reduced signal output
7) TEN DLC pin (Test ENgine Data Link Connector) (ATX)
8) Ignitor output (aka Distributor Ignition)
9) Check Engine Lamp (CEL) Output
10) START signal input
11) Memory Backup Power/Keep Alive Power
12) Torque Reduce Signal 2 Input (ATX)
13) Idle switch input (closed Throttle input)
14) Neut./Clutch switch input
15) Blower load (motor on) input
16) Power Steering Pressure input
17) A/C & low condenser fan [95 A/C relay Output ?same]
18) Rear Window Defrost Load input
19) Headlamp load input
20) FEN DLC pin (Data Link Connector)
21) MEN DLC pin (Data Link Connector)
22) Main PCM Power
http://forums.probetalk.com/archive/index.php/t-1701065429.html
ECU pinout '94 vs '95 pin differences [in brackets]/'93 differences in double asterisk (**) {Omaha95PGT-Marc M.}
Connector C246 (the left connector with 26 pins)
this pinout is facing the ECU/harnesses while it's still plugged in the car with the wires coming out at you.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
1) #5 fuel injector
2) #3 fuel injector
3) #1 fuel injector
4) not used
5) Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid output
6) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) vent solenoid
7) Fuel Pressure Regulator Control (FPRC) solenoid output
8) not used
9) VRIS #1 output
10) Ground Signal (Cylinder Identification [CID]) input
11) NE1 CKPS input (probably the camshaft position sensor in the distributor) ['95 not used]
12) Ground (CPU)
13) Ground (out)
14) #6 fuel injector
15) #4 fuel injector
16) #2 fuel injector
17) Fuel Pump Relay output
18) not used ['95 Crankshaft Position Signal (CPKs)]
19) EGR vacuum solenoid
20) High condenser-fan ['95 low speed condenser fan control-I think it's the same]
21) Low cooling-fan
22) VRIS #2 output
23) Cylinder Identification (CID) signal
24) NE2 CKPS ground ['95 Crankshaft Position Signal (CKPS) ?ground]
25) Ground (input)
26) Ground (out)
Connector C247 (middle connector with 16 pins)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
1) Canister purge solenoid output
2) Knock sensor input
3) IAT input
4) +5V reference out
5) not used **'93 Engine Coolant Temp (Fan) [ECTF]**
6) Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS) input
7) Right Heated O2 Sensor (RHO2S) input <front head>
8) BARO sensor output (ATX)
9) High coolant fan (aka high speed condenser fan control)
10) not used
11) DRL load (Canadian only) (Daytime Running Lights)
12) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve position input
13) A/C High pressure input
14) Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) input
15) Left Heated O2 Sensor (LHO2S) input <rear head>
16) Volumetric Air Flow (VAF) sensor input
Connector C248 (the right connector with 22 pins)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
1) Module ground
2) Reduce Torque Signal 1 input (ATX)
3) Brakelamp load input (ATX)
4) A/C dash switch [on/off] and Low Pressure input
5) VSS input (Vehicle Speed Sensor [+])
6) Torque reduced signal output
7) TEN DLC pin (Test ENgine Data Link Connector) (ATX)
8) Ignitor output (aka Distributor Ignition)
9) Check Engine Lamp (CEL) Output
10) START signal input
11) Memory Backup Power/Keep Alive Power
12) Torque Reduce Signal 2 Input (ATX)
13) Idle switch input (closed Throttle input)
14) Neut./Clutch switch input
15) Blower load (motor on) input
16) Power Steering Pressure input
17) A/C & low condenser fan [95 A/C relay Output ?same]
18) Rear Window Defrost Load input
19) Headlamp load input
20) FEN DLC pin (Data Link Connector)
21) MEN DLC pin (Data Link Connector)
22) Main PCM Power
+1, I want some more pretty pictures
Went for a ride in the MSP with KLDE/ZE hybrid yesterday....
All i can say it it sounds like sex on wheels!
Im sure the ower will be on here soon with pics and videos btu he wants to wait till its 100%
All in all its not a bad or hard swap, just alot of little things that you have to sort out.
All i can say it it sounds like sex on wheels!
Im sure the ower will be on here soon with pics and videos btu he wants to wait till its 100%
All in all its not a bad or hard swap, just alot of little things that you have to sort out.
http://www.*************.com/showthread.php?p=202769
Videos and proof in here
Never mind they block the link
Videos and proof in here
Never mind they block the link
You could type it out in some code for us...
www.eoboaoy.com
remove the o's and you have www.ebay.com
My 2.0 is almost done, I'd like to start looking into this option...
www.eoboaoy.com
remove the o's and you have www.ebay.com
My 2.0 is almost done, I'd like to start looking into this option...
So this is the full blown KLZE not the KL03 that was in North American spec probes/MX6 etc? I did that swap in my 1995 Probe GT and my god it was like a whole new car with the KLZE as opposed to the KL03...Revved faster, higher, stronger...it was like superman vs clark kent lol
