plarsen111
Member
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- 2007 Mazda5
Bought '07 Mazda5 yesterday. My mechanic wants me to do a $250 transmission fluid change. Is this necessary/recommended?
Thanks,
Phil
Thanks,
Phil
Pricey Transmission Fluid Change?
- Thread starter plarsen111
- Start date
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
Only recommended if you want to keep your current transmission in your vehicle. 
The best way to tell, is to pull the dipstick for the transmission, and wipe it off with a clean white cloth or paper towel. If the fluid smells bad/burnt, and is a brown or brown red color, it needs attention. I think the consenus around this forum was around ~45k miles. The 30k service seems too soon, and 60k service is too late.
For what it is worth, the going rate for a fluid flush seems to be around $199-249.... Whereas a used Mazda5 transmission is around~$1000 plus installation labor.
If you don't mind getting a little dirty, there are a few good threads here on the forum on how to do it yourself for the cost of fluid only.
The best way to tell, is to pull the dipstick for the transmission, and wipe it off with a clean white cloth or paper towel. If the fluid smells bad/burnt, and is a brown or brown red color, it needs attention. I think the consenus around this forum was around ~45k miles. The 30k service seems too soon, and 60k service is too late.
For what it is worth, the going rate for a fluid flush seems to be around $199-249.... Whereas a used Mazda5 transmission is around~$1000 plus installation labor.
If you don't mind getting a little dirty, there are a few good threads here on the forum on how to do it yourself for the cost of fluid only.
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- mazda5 2006, Focus ST
Mine cost me $155.00 at the dealer.
rodslinger
Member
Do it yourself...
I feel bad sometimes for the modern auto repair facility. Cars are more reliable and need less maintenance. You can only make so much money changing oil all day long. They need better ideas to generate revenue than to ask someone to pay $250 to change transmission fluid. That is borderline criminal.
I took my truck for the first oil change in a few weeks back. 5k miles on it and they are advising I need an engine flush and injector cleaning. Really? They need to get a grip.
Back to topic. The drain plug is easy to get to. Easier than an oil change in my opinion. Since a drain and fill doesn't get 100% of the fluid out I do it more often. Usually around 20k miles. Also note that Mazda does not have a specificed change interval for the transmission fluid. It is considered a lifetime product and only the level is to be properly maintained. Even with that info I think it is still a good idea to change it every now and then. But they can't deny you warranty if needed for NOT changing it. Only for running it low.
I feel bad sometimes for the modern auto repair facility. Cars are more reliable and need less maintenance. You can only make so much money changing oil all day long. They need better ideas to generate revenue than to ask someone to pay $250 to change transmission fluid. That is borderline criminal.
I took my truck for the first oil change in a few weeks back. 5k miles on it and they are advising I need an engine flush and injector cleaning. Really? They need to get a grip.
Back to topic. The drain plug is easy to get to. Easier than an oil change in my opinion. Since a drain and fill doesn't get 100% of the fluid out I do it more often. Usually around 20k miles. Also note that Mazda does not have a specificed change interval for the transmission fluid. It is considered a lifetime product and only the level is to be properly maintained. Even with that info I think it is still a good idea to change it every now and then. But they can't deny you warranty if needed for NOT changing it. Only for running it low.
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- 2008 Mazda5 Touring
Since I do my own oil changes every 5k, I also drain the a/t pan and refill at the same time. ≤ 3 quarts is about what the pan holds.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Isn't that a tad bit excessive? Unless you drive in extremely hard/harsh conditions or abuse your tranny, changing transaxle fluid (granted only a partial drain for an auto) with every oil change seems a bit of waste (resource and $$), no? I completely understand the transmission is not something to skimp on but I’ve not heard that it is advisable to frequently change it every 5K. Do you guys drop your pans to clean it every x miles too? I’ve drop the pan on of my previous car with 60K for the first ATF change and it was clean; other than some small metallic particles that are captured by the magnetic drain bolt anyway. I think you are better off doing a periodic and thorough drain and refill with a quality fluid. Unless you guys know something about weakness in Ford/Mazda transmissions we are not aware of.
I have been looking up MTX fluid from my upcoming service (Used Amsoil and Redline in past) and Motorcraft synthetic seems to be THE magical elixir (yes, there is better but hard to get and way out of price). Motorcarft synthetic (made in Germany and ranges from $16-$25/bottle) appears to be Ford’s equivalent to but better than GM’s synchromesh. A bit expensive but are advertised as lifelong fluids (I don’t believe that either). I will say the OEM fluid sucks and should be changed out sooner than later.
OP -If you can change your own motor oil, you can change your own transmission oil.
I have been looking up MTX fluid from my upcoming service (Used Amsoil and Redline in past) and Motorcraft synthetic seems to be THE magical elixir (yes, there is better but hard to get and way out of price). Motorcarft synthetic (made in Germany and ranges from $16-$25/bottle) appears to be Ford’s equivalent to but better than GM’s synchromesh. A bit expensive but are advertised as lifelong fluids (I don’t believe that either). I will say the OEM fluid sucks and should be changed out sooner than later.
OP -If you can change your own motor oil, you can change your own transmission oil.
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- 2008 Mazda5 Touring
Excessive? Quite the contrary. Since you don't have an a/t, I guess you also haven't seen pictures of the fluid at ≤ 30k miles either?
Says it costs $12 to drain and refill every 5k, and you never have to flush the a/t...you do the math, nevermind, I'll do it for you.
Every 30k would have gone through 18 quarts of atf tops. Plenty of changes to have renewed itself by 30k and never have to flush it is a winner to me.
How is this wasteful? I use the 30k example simply because the fluid life appears completely gone at that point and I wouldn't flush it at an interval any less because of this.
Says it costs $12 to drain and refill every 5k, and you never have to flush the a/t...you do the math, nevermind, I'll do it for you.
3qt atf = $12
30k / 5k = 6 changes
6 * $12 = $72
30k / 5k = 6 changes
6 * $12 = $72
Every 30k would have gone through 18 quarts of atf tops. Plenty of changes to have renewed itself by 30k and never have to flush it is a winner to me.
How is this wasteful? I use the 30k example simply because the fluid life appears completely gone at that point and I wouldn't flush it at an interval any less because of this.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
I have not seen pics of Mazda transmission oil @ 30K but have been reading what Mazda/Spped3 guys are saying. I still follow the Miata community. Agree that OEM fluid is not good.
The wasteful comment was regarding the use and disposal of oil (I am no tree huger –nothing against trees). 18 qts by 30K = 36qts by 60K. If you are using a quality fluid, you would only need to flush it once during your ownership (before you sell/trade it in) or 2-3 times tops to cover the life of the car (I don't anticipate the car lasting well over 200K like old Volvos without major overhaul -pure highway mileage excluding).
Perhaps the question is what fluid are you putting in at 5K intervals that cost $3 per bottle? If you are concern and want to protect the transmission, wouldn't you use quality fluid? If so, would you still follow suite and change out expensive quality fluid at 5K? Or are you a believer that more frequents (quick) changes with cheaper stuff is just as good as less frequent (thorough) changes of more expensive stuff? Both school of thoughts work depending on how you use the car. I follow the latter when it comes to engine oil b/c it suites my needs better (yes, more wasteful) but like to use better stuff elsewhere (except gas if I don’t have too).
The wasteful comment was regarding the use and disposal of oil (I am no tree huger –nothing against trees). 18 qts by 30K = 36qts by 60K. If you are using a quality fluid, you would only need to flush it once during your ownership (before you sell/trade it in) or 2-3 times tops to cover the life of the car (I don't anticipate the car lasting well over 200K like old Volvos without major overhaul -pure highway mileage excluding).
Perhaps the question is what fluid are you putting in at 5K intervals that cost $3 per bottle? If you are concern and want to protect the transmission, wouldn't you use quality fluid? If so, would you still follow suite and change out expensive quality fluid at 5K? Or are you a believer that more frequents (quick) changes with cheaper stuff is just as good as less frequent (thorough) changes of more expensive stuff? Both school of thoughts work depending on how you use the car. I follow the latter when it comes to engine oil b/c it suites my needs better (yes, more wasteful) but like to use better stuff elsewhere (except gas if I don’t have too).
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- 2008 Mazda5 Touring
5qt jug of Valvoline Maxlife atf = $20
By quality, do you mean Mazda M-V ?
Those 18qts of atf go into the recycling container just like the 27qts of oil. I hardly believe that me changing the atf in my driveway is more environmentally harmful than either dropping the car off at the dealer and shuttling by butt to/from work, or me driving to a reputable source and waiting for 2 hours while they service it. Not accounting for the 6mpg less that the Mz5 gets (wife's the driver) as opposed to my dd that I would have to swap with that day.
I think I'll stick with my fluid draining interval.
20 / 5 = $4 qt
By quality, do you mean Mazda M-V ?
Those 18qts of atf go into the recycling container just like the 27qts of oil. I hardly believe that me changing the atf in my driveway is more environmentally harmful than either dropping the car off at the dealer and shuttling by butt to/from work, or me driving to a reputable source and waiting for 2 hours while they service it. Not accounting for the 6mpg less that the Mz5 gets (wife's the driver) as opposed to my dd that I would have to swap with that day.
I think I'll stick with my fluid draining interval.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Definitely NOT Mazda M-V! I am referring to the typical upper tier boutique vendors like Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline, etc.. They range from in the low to mid $10s per bottle.
Nothing wrong with your draining interval as it'll definitely provide added protection.
Just don't get it done at Jiffy Lube... :| Actually I would not trust any quick lube place.
http://wimp.com/lubeinvestigated/
http://wimp.com/lubeinvestigated/
So if a guy like me does not change his own fluids, should not go or trust a jiffy lube to do it, but also thinks that the quality of the oil used at the dealer is not great either, what options does that leave a person?
Buy a quality engine or transmission fluid and take it somewhere to have it changed for you. Doing it wrong yourself will cost you more, perhaps a lot more.
Buy a quality engine or transmission fluid and take it somewhere to have it changed for you. Doing it wrong yourself will cost you more, perhaps a lot more.
POODLES, ask around. Go to some local car shows and ask enthusiasts who they have do their tranny work. You may get 20 answers from 20 people, but at least you have some leads instead of trying to teach the chain location grease monkeys some higher learning that they don't want to hear.
That's my take, but I also consider mechanics to be a bit like doctors: you have your family practice Dr, and a whole slew of specialists. I consider transmissions to fall under the category of "specialist." I also seek out specialists for A/C, suspension, electrical, and tires too. Sure there are lots of capable all-round mechanics, but only the really good ones will tell you when they don't feel comfortable working on something themselves.
That's my take, but I also consider mechanics to be a bit like doctors: you have your family practice Dr, and a whole slew of specialists. I consider transmissions to fall under the category of "specialist." I also seek out specialists for A/C, suspension, electrical, and tires too. Sure there are lots of capable all-round mechanics, but only the really good ones will tell you when they don't feel comfortable working on something themselves.
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- 2008 Mazda5 Touring
I used to feel this way until my good friend had this vehicle into 2 difference AAMCO's (transmission specialists, HA!) for a rebuild for, I believe, the 3rd time now. I've learned to not trust just what the sign says, but instead go on customer experiences / word-of-mouth.
I kinda understand a/c specialists, but suspension, electrical, and tires? Really? I've bought several sets of tires over the years at Wal-Mart, and wouldn't call them 'specialists' but have found them capable enough. I've also had horrible experience at a suspension and tire shop (Big 10 Tire) and found them less than capable or downright dumb. To me, mechanics can be more rounded with sensible knowledge than the average 'specialist' and I would generally trust the former over the latter.
Can't comment on a/c or electrical as I tackle those myself.
