Andy Hollis
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda 2 Sport
Several forum members are in the process of installing these bushings and have asked for my guidance since I've done a set already. It's been awhile so I actually don't recall all of the details, but here's some pics that should help.
R&R of the front arm is simply jack the car up and put it on stands so both front wheels are off the ground (or use a lift). Remove wheels, disconnect sway bar links, unbolt arms at the ball joint and inner points. Will need a pry bar to get the ball joint apart.
Here's everything that Powerflex makes for the car:
The ball-and-socket control arm bushing is not legal for SCCA STF competition, but is a really nicely designed piece if you aren't autocrossing the car. Instead, I used a Whiteline part (yellow) for that one bushing as seen here. You simply install it as shown (see offset center hole) to maximize the additional caster. It isn't much...about a half degree or so. No huge deal.
Here's the stock version of that part. The slot is not for adjustability, but instead allows it to be more easily installed. Installation is simple with a press, and some sockets or other tube receivers used to press out/in the bushings. Make sure and get the depth right as the bushing does not bottom, and the orientation.
To do the smaller bushing, you first cut off the rubber ends of the OE bushing with a suitable tool (hacksaw, dikes, knife, etc.). This allows it to more easily be pressed out, and also allows for a receiver to be positioned on the one end.
Here's the tool I used for the smaller bushing, since it is a challenge to get it on a press. This clamp-style bushing press is available from Harbor Freight for cheap. In this pic, you can the center sleeve of the Powerflex bushing going in.
I don't have any pics of the rear trailing arm bushing install because I did not do it. Ran out of time before Nationals, and then retired the car. It is VERY involved, though, requiring the entire rear twist arm assembly to be removed from the car, a job which starts out by removing a bunch of interior trim to gain access to the e-brake cables.
That said, the Ford Racing Fiesta B Spec kit contains instructions on filling the rear bushing with epoxy (how very ghetto!!). Getting access is similar to the Mazda 2. Read it here.
And one more thing...the supplied front sway bar bushing set doesn't work on US Mazda 2's. Our bar is 19.5mm while the overseas bars (and Fiesta) are 22mm. They are fairly standard shaped bushings, though, so I'd bet a little research at Energy Suspension in their generic section would yield a part that would work. Might have to get one that was slightly small and ream it out, though.
Edit: The front control arm bushings alone are absolutely worth doing even for a street driven, non-competition car. There is very little increase in road noise/vibration with a huge increase in steering feel and precision. Between those and the engine mount dogbone, very much worth money.
R&R of the front arm is simply jack the car up and put it on stands so both front wheels are off the ground (or use a lift). Remove wheels, disconnect sway bar links, unbolt arms at the ball joint and inner points. Will need a pry bar to get the ball joint apart.
Here's everything that Powerflex makes for the car:
The ball-and-socket control arm bushing is not legal for SCCA STF competition, but is a really nicely designed piece if you aren't autocrossing the car. Instead, I used a Whiteline part (yellow) for that one bushing as seen here. You simply install it as shown (see offset center hole) to maximize the additional caster. It isn't much...about a half degree or so. No huge deal.
Here's the stock version of that part. The slot is not for adjustability, but instead allows it to be more easily installed. Installation is simple with a press, and some sockets or other tube receivers used to press out/in the bushings. Make sure and get the depth right as the bushing does not bottom, and the orientation.
To do the smaller bushing, you first cut off the rubber ends of the OE bushing with a suitable tool (hacksaw, dikes, knife, etc.). This allows it to more easily be pressed out, and also allows for a receiver to be positioned on the one end.
Here's the tool I used for the smaller bushing, since it is a challenge to get it on a press. This clamp-style bushing press is available from Harbor Freight for cheap. In this pic, you can the center sleeve of the Powerflex bushing going in.
I don't have any pics of the rear trailing arm bushing install because I did not do it. Ran out of time before Nationals, and then retired the car. It is VERY involved, though, requiring the entire rear twist arm assembly to be removed from the car, a job which starts out by removing a bunch of interior trim to gain access to the e-brake cables.
That said, the Ford Racing Fiesta B Spec kit contains instructions on filling the rear bushing with epoxy (how very ghetto!!). Getting access is similar to the Mazda 2. Read it here.
And one more thing...the supplied front sway bar bushing set doesn't work on US Mazda 2's. Our bar is 19.5mm while the overseas bars (and Fiesta) are 22mm. They are fairly standard shaped bushings, though, so I'd bet a little research at Energy Suspension in their generic section would yield a part that would work. Might have to get one that was slightly small and ream it out, though.
Edit: The front control arm bushings alone are absolutely worth doing even for a street driven, non-competition car. There is very little increase in road noise/vibration with a huge increase in steering feel and precision. Between those and the engine mount dogbone, very much worth money.
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. Really glad I didnt order anything yet I would of been pissed if I had a illegal bushing on my car. That really sucks about the rear bushing I though it would of been the easier of the two 
