Popes Unichips

If you go with the basic q it will cost more in the long run to have boost control. The q+ is really the better unit for turbocharged applications. I will be loading whatever map(s) make the most sense for each customer. Right now I have maps for improved performance at stock boost and light bolt-on and 11-12 psi. Once my car is running I'll be adding a couple maps right away. As I work with customers and dial in tunes on other cars, I'll add to the map library and anyone that has purchased a unit from me will have complete access to everything I have.

The boost solenoid is used to vary the boost signal to the actuator. By modulating this signal the unichip is able to control how much boost is made by the car and when and how it comes on. Basically all electronic boost controllers use the same hardware and very similar logic.

If you buy a unichip and boost solenoid your manual controller will be obsolete.

So to make this clear. I should buy the q+ and a boost solenoid? Or will it be ok with just the q+ as it already has the maps with however much psi to run?

Also, I'm assuming it comes in a complete package and a how to install manual?
 
The q+ still requires the solenoid. The solenoid is the actual piece of hardware that is controlling the boost signal to the actuator. The q+ has the drivers built in to tell the solenoid what to do.

The units will ship to you with the unichip side of the harness pre-assembled and you'll just need to solder it into six wires in your factory harness. If that isn't your cup of tea, there's a chance I"ll be able to offer a plug and play option. You'll get complete wiring diagrams and pictures to work from for the install.

Another option is to make a summer road trip to the beautiful wine country of Southeast Indiana and I'll install and tune for you for a very reasonable price. Heck you could bring your car out for a weekend and I could set you up with a whole mess of goodies.
 
The q+ still requires the solenoid. The solenoid is the actual piece of hardware that is controlling the boost signal to the actuator. The q+ has the drivers built in to tell the solenoid what to do.

The units will ship to you with the unichip side of the harness pre-assembled and you'll just need to solder it into six wires in your factory harness. If that isn't your cup of tea, there's a chance I"ll be able to offer a plug and play option. You'll get complete wiring diagrams and pictures to work from for the install.

Another option is to make a summer road trip to the beautiful wine country of Southeast Indiana and I'll install and tune for you for a very reasonable price. Heck you could bring your car out for a weekend and I could set you up with a whole mess of goodies.
Pope, I was seriously considering this last night I've got vacation time coming up and for the life of me I can't figure out what to do with it. Mazdaspeed road trip maybe I also want to do a Corsa road rally but the car will need to be top notch first anyway.
 
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The q+ still requires the solenoid. The solenoid is the actual piece of hardware that is controlling the boost signal to the actuator. The q+ has the drivers built in to tell the solenoid what to do.

The units will ship to you with the unichip side of the harness pre-assembled and you'll just need to solder it into six wires in your factory harness. If that isn't your cup of tea, there's a chance I"ll be able to offer a plug and play option. You'll get complete wiring diagrams and pictures to work from for the install.

Another option is to make a summer road trip to the beautiful wine country of Southeast Indiana and I'll install and tune for you for a very reasonable price. Heck you could bring your car out for a weekend and I could set you up with a whole mess of goodies.

How much would the harness cost?

Also

Indiana is so far haha
 
Pope, I was seriously considering this last night I've got vacation time coming up and for the life of me I can't figure out what to do with it. Mazdaspeed road trip maybe I also want to do a Corsa road rally but the car will need to be top notch first anyway.

Just let me know if you want to make it happen and we'll pick a weekend and get it scheduled.

How much would the harness cost?

Also

Indiana is so far haha

If I can get the harnesses made they will probably be $150-$200, but we'll have to wait and see what I can come up with.
 
Just let me know if you want to make it happen and we'll pick a weekend and get it scheduled.



If I can get the harnesses made they will probably be $150-$200, but we'll have to wait and see what I can come up with.

Why not just buy an AEM extension harness ($250)
 
$150 seems a bit excessive dor automotive grade wires an some clips... convenient. But its pretty easy to solder/use gold bullets. If only 6 wires.
No different than ssafc. For that money I'd definitely skip the harness.
 
$150 seems a bit excessive dor automotive grade wires an some clips... convenient. But its pretty easy to solder/use gold bullets. If only 6 wires.
No different than ssafc. For that money I'd definitely skip the harness.
It's not an option for you or me but some people are willing to pay someone for their time to save them selves time and heart ache. I'm thinking an AEM harness even though I do not have to remove it for smog testing. I'd like to move from one speed to another until I can afford two 😊
 
$150 seems a bit excessive dor automotive grade wires an some clips... convenient. But its pretty easy to solder/use gold bullets. If only 6 wires.
No different than ssafc. For that money I'd definitely skip the harness.

I don't have a soldering gun. I wonder if splicing and crimping would work?
 
Soldering iron $20. I use that to do 20ga 1000 strand copper wires on $200 electric motors and escs.
But yes. crimps will work fine, just spring for nicer gold plated ones if possible.

You say time and heart ache, I call it aquiring new skills.
 
Why not just buy an AEM extension harness ($250)

That's certainly an option, but an expensive one.

I don't have a soldering gun. I wonder if splicing and crimping would work?

I don't recommend it unless you are using a quality ratcheting crimper and order good quality connectors. Auto parts store tools and connectors are not well suited for this job, if you have the good stuff or access to it a crimped connection is actually a better connection.
 
That's certainly an option, but an expensive one.



I don't recommend it unless you are using a quality ratcheting crimper and order good quality connectors. Auto parts store tools and connectors are not well suited for this job, if you have the good stuff or access to it a crimped connection is actually a better connection.
I'd certainly go for cutting into my stock harness if it was with high quality bullet connectors so that I could pull the unit out connecting the stock harness back together.

My buddy did audio for 15 years before he worked for himself as an electrician and always used bullet connectors.
 
Gonna save up money n buy the q+ and boost solenoid! Thanks for the feedback Pope!
 
Does anyone happen to have a diagram for splicing in the uni-chip id hate to hook up the wrong wires haha. Would they be color coded, or would it be pretty self explanatory?
 
I'll supply the wiring diagram with the unit. It includes all wire colors and locations and should be very easy to follow. I'm still waiting for a price on the pnp harness, but that may be an option as well.
 
Btw i really like the downpipe I purchased opened it up with 3 inch catless to the stock muffler sounds great not too loud and the feels faster now on stockboost then when I was running 10 psi without fmic or exhaust. great product and thanks for the input I may pick up Q+ in the coming weeks
 
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