Please help! Fuel cut or something else?

Z

ZOOMZOOMDUDE

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09 MS3 Sport
Hey there MS3 guru's.. Well I got my Corksport down pipe installed sunday. Took the car out and drove easy and then did a couple of wot pulls. At wot the car stuttered a bit. I was told it was normal because the ECU was re adjusting to the change. Well drove it to work yesterday and the problem seemed to get a little better, but drove it to work today and its still doing it. Am I getting fuel cut or is my ECU still re-maping? My current performance mods are Corksport DP, Corksport mid pipe, Corksport CBE, COBB sri, and HKS SSQV. I thought fuel cut only occured when people upped the boost? Do I need to get a fuel cut defender, or a map clamp?

Any input will be greatly appreciated.
 
You are spiking from opening up the exhaust. Free-flowing exhaust = faster spool. So that might be causing it. Fuel cut is more severe than stuttering, though...it'd feel like you threw out an anchor for a second. You might be experiencing low fuel pressure (which means you should invest in the upgraded fuel pump internals) or ignition break-up (which should be cured by a set of step-colder plugs)
 
AutoEuphoria said:
You are spiking from opening up the exhaust. Free-flowing exhaust = faster spool. So that might be causing it. Fuel cut is more severe than stuttering, though...it'd feel like you threw out an anchor for a second. You might be experiencing low fuel pressure (which means you should invest in the upgraded fuel pump internals) or ignition break-up (which should be cured by a set of step-colder plugs)
Click to expand...

Well I guess it might be fuel cut. Because when it happens it feels like the car dies for a split second and then it kicks back on. It feels like when you hit the rev limiter.
 
yup, that's it. You're probably spiking up over 18psi for a split second too long. An open exhaust will do that, unfortunately :\ You can look into making a MAP clamp (cheap solution), getting the CP-E flash (expensive solution), or getting the CP-E Standback (very expensive solution) or Cobb AccessPort (cheaper than the standback, but wait until they release the tuning software because it won't work with your mods currently)

Love those wheels, btw...what are they?
 
AutoEuphoria said:
yup, that's it. You're probably spiking up over 18psi for a split second too long. An open exhaust will do that, unfortunately :\ You can look into making a MAP clamp (cheap solution), getting the CP-E flash (expensive solution), or getting the CP-E Standback (very expensive solution) or Cobb AccessPort (cheaper than the standback, but wait until they release the tuning software because it won't work with your mods currently)

Love those wheels, btw...what are they?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input.. I think for the moment im going to invest in a map clamp and one step colder plugs.. Oh and the wheels are Kyowa KR628
 
hitting fuel cut youll be like....dud EWTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol. i thought i was getting fuel cut when i did my dp mod and it is like a sputter throughout the gears sometimes all the way sometimes not at all. like said over and over in this place.....if you got fuel cut....man youll know it. you shouldnt be getting fuel cut with just the dp.

i have sri, tbe, colder plugs, and the ap. i didnt hit fuel cut until i ran the stage 2 map and that is supposedly an extra 30 hp (give or take). you prob either just need a tune (an if you do what i did with the ap youll have to upgrade the fuel pump because youll def hit fuel cut) or like said before your fuel pressure is off. you should be about 1700 psi under WOT and about 1200 or so at reg driving and 4-500 at idle. fuel cut usually occurs at about 2500 rpm and like i said.....brick wall, not a stutter and resume driving.
 
mazdaspeed32007 said:
hitting fuel cut youll be like....dud EWTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol. i thought i was getting fuel cut when i did my dp mod and it is like a sputter throughout the gears sometimes all the way sometimes not at all. like said over and over in this place.....if you got fuel cut....man youll know it. you shouldnt be getting fuel cut with just the dp.

i have sri, tbe, colder plugs, and the ap. i didnt hit fuel cut until i ran the stage 2 map and that is supposedly an extra 30 hp (give or take). you prob either just need a tune (an if you do what i did with the ap youll have to upgrade the fuel pump because youll def hit fuel cut) or like said before your fuel pressure is off. you should be about 1700 psi under WOT and about 1200 or so at reg driving and 4-500 at idle. fuel cut usually occurs at about 2500 rpm and like i said.....brick wall, not a stutter and resume driving.
Click to expand...

WOW!! you just described what happens perfctly!! What do you think the best quick solution is? map clamp and one step colder plugs?
 
i have the ngk plugs and it did a little for the sputter. as far as fixing the solution of the sputter the only way to really correct the problem is to get a tune. its wierd, all of my parameters read normal....the only thing thats off are my ltft's but its only occasionally....once every three days i may get a cel p2187 lean out at idle code. im hitting a 20% ltft correction so the sputter is just a lack of tune i guess. buy an access port. not only will you fix your sputter, but youll get another 30 hp or so and your car will be running values that match your mods. thus saving your car in the long run.

that hesitation sucks though...i know what your talking about and its annoying as hell esp on the highway when you want to rip on someone else.
 
Before assuming that the new DP is the problem, it might be worth your while to look at the simple things first. I think you have something simple, something which may have happened during your install.

Is your BOV configured to run in recirc mode? If not, get the kit and set it up that way. A BOV venting to atmosphere can cause all sorts of problems. If you have your stock BPV, you might want to put it back on to see if that clears up the problem.

Also check all hose clamps. Chances are good that the intercooler was removed when the DP was installed. You need to check all hoses and make sure they are properly seated and that the clamps are tight.

I can't accept that the DP alone is the culprit. Mine is not. I do not get fuel cut. Low temps (which can cause this) should not be your problem with you in Houston, a very similar climate to where I am on the Mississippi Gulf Coast.

We both may benefit a bit from going to one step colder plugs, which I will do next. But I've been running catless dp/rp and MSCAI gen 2 intake for a while now with no problems whatsoever, just a LOT more power, especially in the midrange.
 
MSMS3 said:
Before assuming that the new DP is the problem, it might be worth your while to look at the simple things first. I think you have something simple, something which may have happened during your install.

Is your BOV configured to run in recirc mode? If not, get the kit and set it up that way. A BOV venting to atmosphere can cause all sorts of problems. If you have your stock BPV, you might want to put it back on to see if that clears up the problem.

Also check all hose clamps. Chances are good that the intercooler was removed when the DP was installed. You need to check all hoses and make sure they are properly seated and that the clamps are tight.

I can't accept that the DP alone is the culprit. Mine is not. I do not get fuel cut. Low temps (which can cause this) should not be your problem with you in Houston, a very similar climate to where I am on the Mississippi Gulf Coast.

We both may benefit a bit from going to one step colder plugs, which I will do next. But I've been running catless dp/rp and MSCAI gen 2 intake for a while now with no problems whatsoever, just a LOT more power, especially in the midrange.
Click to expand...

I will double check all that when I get home
 
I have no tune. I have MSCAI 2nd gen and catless DP/RP. I have no cut, never have. There are cars here running 12 second quarters with no tune - stock ECU. I have no plans for a tune.

Why do people think a $700 "tune" magically solves everything?

I'm betting on it being a vacuum or boost leak from a loose connections or a BOV problem.
 
hes not getting cut...hes getting stuttering. big difference. you can control your stock ecu and how it tries to correct for your mods. its still running rich s hell and your going to get stuttering nd bckfiring esp with an exhaust nd catless dp.
 
mazdaspeed32007 said:
hes not getting cut...hes getting stuttering. big difference. you can control your stock ecu and how it tries to correct for your mods. its still running rich s hell and your going to get stuttering nd bckfiring esp with an exhaust nd catless dp.
Click to expand...

How come I don't get stuttering and backfire? Must be something else besides the catless DP/RP. Runs like a banshee.
 
Well im gonna try the map clamp first to see if it fixes the problem. If it doesnt work im gonna invest in the fuel pump internals and cobb ap.
 
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