Using a cooler thermostat, instead of a 180 or 190 try using a 170
Using slightly thicker shims under the came lobs. This makes the valve open wider, but their is danger in doing this. You really need to know the distance between the top of the piston an the valve when open. Don't know if its better to do the intake or exhausts. Most of the time the exhaust side is better because if the exhaust valve can open wider, which means its also open slightly longer it helps to pull in the air/fuel mixture. Depending on the cam when the exhaust valve is just starting to close the intake valve is starting to open. When the exhaust gases are leaving the cylinder an going down the exhaust pipe it create a vacuum an draws in the fuel/air charge quicker. This is why headers work so well.
Another thing that aids performance is making you car weight less, the rule of thumb is for every 100 lbs. Less in weight you gain 10 to 15 HP.
I'm not sure on this but I've read that using a fuel regulator with a higher pressure will be able to make fuel injectors squirt harder.
Almost all of the horse power an engine makes is in the cylinder head. Big gains can be had by head porting. If your valve springs are old they can rob HP.
Doing these things an having the ECU reflashed would be a good thing. I'm going to add this in, the ECU is a limiting factor when doing mods, such as 2 yrs. ago I rebuilt a 1500 ZD engine, it had a knocking rod. So since I had the head off I went ahead an did some porting to it, mainly just cleaning up some casting flash an smoothing out the runners. I expected a little bit more power but that didn't happen. I did get a jump in torque but that was about it. Why I didn't get any more HP was because of the ECU. The ECU was still programed for a normal flowing. So if big changes are made like different cam shafts an a header the ECU is a must to be reflashed or an after market ECU.
Using slightly thicker shims under the came lobs. This makes the valve open wider, but their is danger in doing this. You really need to know the distance between the top of the piston an the valve when open. Don't know if its better to do the intake or exhausts. Most of the time the exhaust side is better because if the exhaust valve can open wider, which means its also open slightly longer it helps to pull in the air/fuel mixture. Depending on the cam when the exhaust valve is just starting to close the intake valve is starting to open. When the exhaust gases are leaving the cylinder an going down the exhaust pipe it create a vacuum an draws in the fuel/air charge quicker. This is why headers work so well.
Another thing that aids performance is making you car weight less, the rule of thumb is for every 100 lbs. Less in weight you gain 10 to 15 HP.
I'm not sure on this but I've read that using a fuel regulator with a higher pressure will be able to make fuel injectors squirt harder.
Almost all of the horse power an engine makes is in the cylinder head. Big gains can be had by head porting. If your valve springs are old they can rob HP.
Doing these things an having the ECU reflashed would be a good thing. I'm going to add this in, the ECU is a limiting factor when doing mods, such as 2 yrs. ago I rebuilt a 1500 ZD engine, it had a knocking rod. So since I had the head off I went ahead an did some porting to it, mainly just cleaning up some casting flash an smoothing out the runners. I expected a little bit more power but that didn't happen. I did get a jump in torque but that was about it. Why I didn't get any more HP was because of the ECU. The ECU was still programed for a normal flowing. So if big changes are made like different cam shafts an a header the ECU is a must to be reflashed or an after market ECU.
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