ok need help concering INJEN AND BOV AND TURKEYS!!

speedmo21

Member
ok this past weekend i installed the injen intake and the rfl bov..i first set it up and the bov was stallin the car out..i now have it running good however the turkey sound is awful.. is this caused by the injen or the bov?? say i was to take out the bov and put the stock bpv back will the turkey be gone?? if not how do i get rid of the turkey sound w/the injen ,rfl bov and stock pipin?? i was lookin at the other how tos using different bovs.. anyway need help fast!! turkeys suck
 
Its definetly the intake that makes the turkey sound louder. If you replaced the stock bpv it should of got rid of the turkey but it will make your car stall. The only way to get rid of that sound is to run a dual bov set up by keeping the stock bpv and attaching your bov on the intercooler piping by the throttle body.
 
mspeed101 said:
Its definetly the intake that makes the turkey sound louder. If you replaced the stock bpv it should of got rid of the turkey but it will make your car stall. The only way to get rid of that sound is to run a dual bov set up by keeping the stock bpv and attaching your bov on the intercooler piping by the throttle body.
Wrong answer.... the problem with some BOVs is that the vent under vacuum so when your car is not boosting it's open causing a over rich condition and stalling. You need a dual piston bov like the forge unit that doesn't open under vacuum and you'll be fine.
 
get hard pipes,run the stock bpv and add a single piston bov=no turkey

or

hard pipe with dual piston bov no stock bpv=no turkey

by the way it's the stock pipes flexing thats causing the turkey
and TiGraymsp716 is correct about why it stalls
 
TiGrayMsp716 said:
Wrong answer.... the problem with some BOVs is that the vent under vacuum so when your car is not boosting it's open causing a over rich condition and stalling. You need a dual piston bov like the forge unit that doesn't open under vacuum and you'll be fine.
How do you figure wrong answer? I was refering to his turboxs rfl bov not the forge bov. I use to have the same bov and the only way for it to kill the turkey without stalling was to run a dual bov set up
 
I run a turbo xs type-s and the stock bpv on turbohoses pipes and it works and sound great.if your going to do it do it right.do it how I dicribed ^up there^
 
I run a turbo xs type-s and the stock bpv on turbohoses pipes and it works and sound great.if your going to do it do it right.do it how I dicribed ^up there^
 
by the way how you going to feel if someone asked you to pop the hood and you had to explain why you had a bov stuffed into a tube on plastic pipes,kinda lame ain't it.

mama says "do it right or don't do it at all"
 
COMPRESSOR SURGE ! BPV FLUTTER ! WTFUX0RZ WHO CARES !

people...read the threads concerning this. they're probably in the MSP archives. pipes expanding does not cause flutter. the pipes aren't connected to any kind of whistling device or valve at the ends for that matter, so it's not the pipes.

please please PLEASE ! read the threads !

*oh yeah, when you see the pipes expanding, you're seeing a pressure drop in boost on your gauge. hardpipes stop the pressure drop, but they do not kill the turkey. people w/ FMICs still experience hearing the turkey if they use an open-element filter such as the cone filter on the INJEN intake, and either a single piston/valve BOV that is not tuned right, or the stock BPV. a member here has figured how to tune a GReddy type-s BOV to make a solid pssssssssht instead of a turkey. search puhlease !
 
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jflo said:
COMPRESSOR SURGE ! BPV FLUTTER ! WTFUX0RZ WHO CARES !

people...read the threads concerning this. they're probably in the MSP archives. pipes expanding does not cause flutter. the pipes aren't connected to any kind of whistling device or valve at the ends for that matter, so it's not the pipes.

please please PLEASE ! read the threads !

*oh yeah, when you see the pipes expanding, you're seeing a pressure drop in boost on your gauge. hardpipes stop the pressure drop, but they do not kill the turkey. people w/ FMICs still experience hearing the turkey if they use an open-element filter such as the cone filter on the INJEN intake, and either a single piston/valve BOV that is not tuned right, or the stock BPV. a member here has figured how to tune a GReddy type-s BOV to make a solid pssssssssht instead of a turkey. search puhlease !

what I said is true and so are you.

if your bov isn't tuned properly you can have the turkey as well.

don't be an ass the combination of flexable pipes(refering to the two inch rippled sections) and our soft motor mounts cause our bpv to release peasure speraticly instead of one big pssshhht
now you go do a search.
 
the two inch ripple sections are like the hump hoses used in some hardpipe kits: they help to keep the IC/turbo/throttle body from being pulled by the engine's vibration/movement/torqueing. they also allow the pipes to expand, but the silicone hump hoses are more durable, so they don't expand as much and cause pressure drop. motor mounts won't cause boost to be released separately. motor mounts help to stop/lower the amount of vibration being transferred to the chassis/powertrain. the motor mounts doesn't even touch the pipes, so i don't know how it's possible for motor mounts to cause boost to be released separately. vibrations (unless they're causing some kind of sonic/harmonic wave) aren't able to forceably move air that's inside plastic pipes (especially since the air is always being pushed against and sucked on by the turbo and engine)
 
I have the forge bov and injen, and i can barely hear my bov, its all turkey, and the forge has no way of being adjusted. I am kinda pissed because i really don't like the turkey sound.
 
You could modify the spring also. Then you don't need to run the dual setup.



mspeed101 said:
How do you figure wrong answer? I was refering to his turboxs rfl bov not the forge bov. I use to have the same bov and the only way for it to kill the turkey without stalling was to run a dual bov set up
 
mspeed101 said:
How do you figure wrong answer? I was refering to his turboxs rfl bov not the forge bov. I use to have the same bov and the only way for it to kill the turkey without stalling was to run a dual bov set up
Oh... I though you meant the ONLY way, not the only way with the RFL.....
 
You answered the question yourself. You said the ripple sections allow the pipes to expand during engine movement. This movement can EASLILY cause changes in pressure to the air inside the pipes. It's simple math. When the pipes expand, the volume changes, so the pressure changes with it. (think of an accordian)

The motor mounts control engine movement. We all know that our engine moves a lot with the stock mounts, especially when the engine is rapidly changing it's torque, such as when we shift. When the engine moves during shifting, everything connected to it shifts also, including ALL the piping going from the intake, to the turbo, to the IC, to the engine. So yes, Motor Mounts can possibly be a very big source of pressure fluctuations.

As for all of this causing the turkey, I doubt it. I hear the turkey sound as soon as I hit the clutch and let off the gas, but before I'm engaging the next gear, which is when I feel the motor moving around.

-Mike

jflo said:
the two inch ripple sections are like the hump hoses used in some hardpipe kits: they help to keep the IC/turbo/throttle body from being pulled by the engine's vibration/movement/torqueing. they also allow the pipes to expand, but the silicone hump hoses are more durable, so they don't expand as much and cause pressure drop. motor mounts won't cause boost to be released separately. motor mounts help to stop/lower the amount of vibration being transferred to the chassis/powertrain. the motor mounts doesn't even touch the pipes, so i don't know how it's possible for motor mounts to cause boost to be released separately. vibrations (unless they're causing some kind of sonic/harmonic wave) aren't able to forceably move air that's inside plastic pipes (especially since the air is always being pushed against and sucked on by the turbo and engine)
 
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I have the Forge Bov unit and Samco upper IC pipe with no turkey. The flex in the stock pipes do contribute to the turkey. The Upper IC pipe has 2 flex joints in it. Engine movement and boost both cause changes in the inner diameter of the pipe. The pipes expand at the joints under boost. And the motor does shift when you let off the gas.
 
ok so should i get a set of hard pipes first??. then put back on my stock bpv then mount the rfl bov up by the throttle body?> what if i pulled out the injen will i have a turkey noise with the bov? if thats the case i put put the stock airbox in and sell the injen.. im not sure confused on what to do!! ALSO* i heard the rfl mite be to big to mount up by the throttle body??
 
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The flex in the pipes do not contribute to the turkey sound. Go watch a frikin Rally race (which all cars recirc thier BPV's) and you will hear Evo's STI's GTI's SRT-4's Ect Ect have the turkey sound. (eyeroll)
 
Then why with a bov do some people still have turkeys. Just because something sounds similar doesn't mean it's the same. An overly tight BOV can make that noise too but the MSP doesn't have that either. So explain why with just a BOV I still had a little turkey but changed the upper IC pipe to a Samco unit and turkey is completely gone.
 

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