Oil?

Still can't decide if I should run synthetic. It is expensive, and the manual doesn't say the cars require it. I suppose since we don't need oil changes but every 5000-7500 miles it won't be that bad.... I still have to decide.
 
Chaning the oil the first time was a pain. Getting the car on the ramp, removing the shield and whatnot was time consuming. But once you figure out what to do it will be faster the next time around. I'm also not a big fan of the canister oil filter. Is there a special tool that you can buy that's easier to turn the canister than just your standard oil filter clasp?
 
Whats up Speed3ers? I don plan on running full synthetic at all. Not really a true believer of the synthetic stuff. Just a waste of money. Oil is Oil. Just change the oil when needed. I plan on changing oil every 2500 miles. Also I never go on the 3 month stuff either. C'mon think about it..If u change oil in your car and its sets for 3 months without being driven. Do u change the oil again before u drive it? I mean oil doesnt have a shelf life. heat and friction break oil molecules down. This is just my opinion.
 
VermZ06 said:
Chaning the oil the first time was a pain. Getting the car on the ramp, removing the shield and whatnot was time consuming. But once you figure out what to do it will be faster the next time around. I'm also not a big fan of the canister oil filter. Is there a special tool that you can buy that's easier to turn the canister than just your standard oil filter clasp?
There is a special tool I read somewhere.I dont know where to get it tho.
When I work on my cars I wear rubber gloves.The gloves stick good to the filter so I usually dont even use oil wrenchs so Im hoping Im ok with this car aswell.
Also can we get oil filters from auto zone or something like that or do we have to get them from mazda?
 
I changed my oil from dino to synth, Mobil 1 5w30, at 1,830 miles. I would have gotten the Syntec 0w30 German stuff, but I couldn't find 6 quarts of the crap.

The special tool you need is an end cap oil filter wrench. 74mm 14 flute...good luck freakin finding one. I ended up taking the underbody tray off and had to use a rubber strap wrench to loosen the cartridge cap.

I'd suggest a Napa Gold filter, part# FIL7203 I think. It's what I used. Don't buy one from Autozone.

To read up on oil changes and a TON of other oil and filter related crap, I'd suggest registering to the forums at: Bobistheoilguy
 
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I dont buy auto zone filters and would hope noboby here does.I get K&N from auto zone.I was just wondering if they had our size in the auto part stores yet and not just thru mazda.
Thanks,
Shark
 
I'm using the AMSoil for my MS3, I took out stock oil when it was 1.4k miles.

AMSoil mentioned that it can be use til 12500 miles, but i don't believe it!!

It still a good oil for me though.
 
MS3-oholic said:
I changed my first oil at 2500 miles to conventional Castrol 5w30 to allow good break-in, then again at 5000 miles with Royal Purple 5w30. I will always run Royal Purple, and change it no more than every 3000 miles!

Any Brand of synthetic is better than conventional. For those of you who don't believe in synthetic, you are just plain cheap. The oil is the only thing preventing metal to metal contact, and only the best should be used for a long, dependable life. Conventional motor oil is designed for naturally aspirated vehicles where the temps are much lower than high horsepower turbo applications. Turbos cook oil at much higher temps and while standard oils may work for a while, it will come back to bite you in the wallet.

Synthetic oil is scientifically proven to be far superior than conventional motor oil and it only cost a couple more dollars a quart. I hate it when I hear people are treating their MS3's with such carelessness. Don't you love your cars?

I'm done ranting. No hard feelings I hope.

Agreeing with you that synthetic is scientifically better than dino oil has nothing to do with me (and I am sure others) being cheap. Better oil does not automatically infer an advantage in this situation. Why spend money on something that isn't required? I can dump 93 octane into a Geo Metro and it won't mean anything. Is 93 octane better than 87? Scientifically proven? Yep...sure is. The reason I would use synthetic is if I could justify it. Putting it in just because it is "better", doesn't mean my engine will last longer or anything of the sort. If the engine doesn't stress the oil beyond its capabilities, there is no need to improve the oil.

That said, if I mod the crap out of my car, add boost, change the turbo, or do things out of Mazda approved specs, then yes ---- I probably would run synthetic to help an overworked (per the specs) engine last. That is exactly why synthetics were designed....and that is why many --- but not our cars --- come with synthetic oil. That is why the manuals' require its use. We just don't fall into that category. I have to put 91+ octane in my car for a reason -- turbo = high pressure = possibility of pre-detonation. I bet Mazda tested the engine quite extensively and determined that synthetic wasn't necessary. If it was --- we would already have it.

I don't understand folks who spend money on something without being able to demonstrate a good reason. Speculation on theoretically increasing your engine life doesn't count. Now, if you have modded your car (or if it is an older engine) --- well I would understand completely...there are facts and data to justify those situations.

No hard feelings I hope.
 
mark404040 said:
I'm using the AMSoil for my MS3, I took out stock oil when it was 1.4k miles.

AMSoil mentioned that it can be use til 12500 miles, but i don't believe it!!

It still a good oil for me though.
AMSoil is great! I use it in my motorcycle.
 
MadOzodi said:
I changed my oil from dino to synth, Mobil 1 5w30, at 1,830 miles. I would have gotten the Syntec 0w30 German stuff, but I couldn't find 6 quarts of the crap.

The special tool you need is an end cap oil filter wrench. 74mm 14 flute...good luck freakin finding one. I ended up taking the underbody tray off and had to use a rubber strap wrench to loosen the cartridge cap.

I'd suggest a Napa Gold filter, part# FIL7203 I think. It's what I used. Don't buy one from Autozone.

To read up on oil changes and a TON of other oil and filter related crap, I'd suggest registering to the forums at: Bobistheoilguy

I use the german castrol in my 3... with the oil filter conversion... took 3 different autozones to find that oil! when I did, I cleared the shelf :D
 
Please do not use aftermarket filters, on the 2.3L mazdas, it makes me cry, I see what our techs pull out of these cars and it is litteraly bad news, they crack in the middle all the way around, I may be wrong about the Napa one, but I have seen a ton of them and it can only end in tears.

Thank you for the oil info.
 
TheMAN said:
I use the german castrol in my 3... with the oil filter conversion... took 3 different autozones to find that oil! when I did, I cleared the shelf :D
My understanding is that Castrol isn't even fully synthetic oil.
 
I work at a VW dealership along with Mazda, and that German Castrol is some crazy stuff, VW part # G-052-167-A2, CASTROL 50501, I dont even know what weight it is or what that means, it does not say it anywhere, but If you have an 04 or new 1.8T VW it is required for warrenty
 
nondual said:
My understanding is that Castrol isn't even fully synthetic oil.
I thought the same thing,Its not full synthetic.Its made from group III oil or something like that.They can clame to be full but it really isnt.
Im looking for the stuff I read this on,It was a long time ago.It said that Mobil1,amsoil,And redline are true full synthetic.
 
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Here a bit of what I found.
It appears the US-made Castrol Syntec is just hydrocracked natural oil. If you want the true synthetic Castrol you have to look for the stuff that's made in Germany (will say on bottle).
Seems they changed their formula from pure synthetic to group III petroleum base stocks. Was sued by Mobil 1 because of it. They have legal rights to claim their syntec is full synthetic, but it's a play on words and meanings. I recommend Amsoil, or Red Line & Mobil 1.

Shark
 
TheMAN said:
I use the german castrol in my 3... with the oil filter conversion... took 3 different autozones to find that oil! when I did, I cleared the shelf :D

Hehe, trust me, I would have done the same thing! Nice Avatar btw.

The nickname for Castrol Syntec on the BITOG forums is GC. Understandably so because it's got the "Made in Germany" on the bottle. I'm using Mobil1 because I know I can get it easily and want to stay consistent with my oil. Not because I think it will make my car perform better or make my engine last longer, but because I'm freakin ANAL and if I want to allow myself some Concrete Operational Thinking once in a while, why not do it with engine oil?

I think I'm gonna go for that deal that includes an end cap oil filter wrench socket when you buy 10 filters from Mazda. BTW, I didn't bother changing the O-rings. I figured 1,830 miles didn't require it.

(drunk)
 
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