Oil quality confusing

Jack Rabbit

Banned
:
18 Mazda CX5 AW
So watched a test video on oils and test of four(4) different pennzoil oils from synthetic blend to ultra platinum, etc. Synthetic blend, full sythentic, platinum and ultra platinum were tested.

Most expensive ultra synthetic performed best under most conditions.

However, the synthetic blend was also very good as other had their shortcomings.

The second most expensive platinum blend had the worst viscosity when cold and had the least amount of additives and protectants.

The cheap synthetic blend and full synthetic had better viscosity almost equal to the ultra platinum as well as way more additives than the platinum blend.

Sadly, those who dont want buy the most expensive and buy the middle tier priced oil are getting ripped off with inferior product thats wearing engine more so than a basic cheap synthetic blend.

As far as Pennzoil goes , better to buy Ultra (expensive) and if not, then just get the regular synthetic blend or the full authentic and avoid Platinum.

Have to question how all other brands oil lineups would protect engine. Not only a question of which brand motor oil is better but which selection within each brand is best.

Would be interesting to see the castrol lineup and mazda oils tested.
 
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tested how? if those tests were from the pay to view videos on yutube most are not real and valid tests anyway.
 
tested how? if those tests were from the pay to view videos on yutube most are not real and valid tests anyway.
1st off, as an example, it would be of no benefit for Post cereal to pay me to test all their cereals and tell everyone buy this Post cereal of all post cereals.

The video compared only Pennzoil brand oils. And it would make no sense for Pennzoil to pay a YouTuber to show that you should only buy the most expensive or least expensive brand of our product because our mid tier product sucks. The Pennzoil Platinum at $24 a quart is the worst on their roster of products.

Lastly this is one of the project farm videos. Look them up. He's actually pretty good.
 
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1st off, as an example, it would be of no benefit for Post cereal to pay me to test all their cereals and tell everyone buy this Post cereal of all post cereals.

The video compared only Pennzoil brand oils. And it would make no sense for Pennzoil to pay a YouTuber to show that you should only buy the most expensive or least expensive brand of our product because our mid tier product sucks.

Lastly this is one of the project farm videos. Look them up. He's actually pretty good.

I concur. I really like his videos/tests.
He's done a handful of different oil comparison videos.
Be careful, if you're like me, you'll end up going down the Project Farm video black hole. :)

If you change your oil regularly and use synthetic or synthetic blend and quality filter, you really don't need to worry about it too much.

My 1 data point was my wife's old 09 CX9. It had 185k miles on it and ran perfectly fine when we got rid of it. I changed the oil every 5k-7k miles with whatever synthetic was on sale. Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol...I didn't stick to one brand and I think I used Napa Gold filters most of the time.

EDIT: I wouldn't be surprised if a company had a 'mid-grade' product that was made with less than 'mid-grade' materials. Charge a few extra buck and people think they are getting a better product. It might meet the mid-grade tests that the company tests to, but when you go to the extremes, it might not quite live up to it.
 
to me those tests are not real world engine tests. Although nice for information, the oil in the engine is under pressure plus there is lot more to it than just putting it in a freezer, on an 19th century rotating/friction wheel or just burning it off in a small jar. The tests on Youtube cannot define which oil is good or not so good for a particular engine. Thats what I am trying to say.
 
to me those tests are not real world engine tests. Although nice for information, the oil in the engine is under pressure plus there is lot more to it than just putting it in a freezer, on an 19th century rotating/friction wheel or just burning it off in a small jar. The tests on Youtube cannot define which oil is good or not so good for a particular engine. Thats what I am trying to say.

I see what you're saying, but a counter.

Cold oil in the pan needs to be sucked into the oil pump. If oil cannot be sucked into the pump, it cannot be put under pressure.

The pistons/rings are not under any oil pressure and rely on the film strength. That's somewhat represented by the rotating wheel test.
 
there are oil jets.
And in regards to the cold temp, any decent oil manufacturer has the physical characteristics.
There is pour point for cold temps. Go near or below and yes the oil becomes a problem :)

example
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for reference , our most common Mazda Moly 0w20 pour point is -57C
 
It is beyond silly to put any weight on oil "tests" some guy bubba'd up in his garage. Does the oil meet OEM viscosity and API ratings? If it does, it will work fine
 
It is beyond silly to put any weight on oil "tests" some guy bubba'd up in his garage. Does the oil meet OEM viscosity and API ratings? If it does, it will work fine

I agree, though I do find the tests interesting. IMO, the differences aren't significant enough to sway me one way or the other. I can at least appreciate the effort Project Farm puts forward, and his desire to keep testing between each product as consistent as possible.

This is like taking 4 ballpoint pens from different manufacturers and comparing them with each other. Sure, they may write differently, or have slight variances in colour, but they all do the same thing - write in blue ink.
 
indeed, it is interesting to watch. No doubt about that. Same for our used oil analysis thread we have in the forum. Just wish that more people would contribute :) Everything gives an nice overview and perspective.
 
:)

If you change your oil regularly and use synthetic or synthetic blend and quality filter, you really don't need to worry about it too much.
The most sensible remark in this whole thread.
I'm a senior now, and have owned and driven dozens of cars since I was 14 years old. My first new to me car was a 1965 Chevy.
Never, and I mean never, have I had an engine failure, or even a problem with any of them. Didn't matter what type or brand of oil I used either. Remember now too, back then there was no such thing as synthetic oil. Today's oils are so much better than what I used in my early vehicles.
I've put hundreds of thousands of miles on more than one vehicle, and they were all still running fine when I got rid of them. The secret was and is, simple: regular oil and filter changes, usually in the 4-6 thousand mile range. Never longer. My current Mazda is five years old, with 21,000 miles on it. I've already done 7 oil changes.
In your Mazda, if you're not sure what to use, then just go by the recommendations in the owners manual.
 
Some time ago there used to be a show on NPR called click and clack the tappet brothers. They both had degrees in mechanical engineering and their own repair shop. They advocated just changing the oil and filter on a regular basis and don't worry about anything else. The interval used to be 3k miles with dino oil. I think it was because they wanted to make money. I changed mine at 5k miles. Since then engine tolerances have improved and most manufactures have intervals of 7.5k miles. I change mine at 10k with Walmart full synthetic. Truth be told you'll get tired if your vehicle and get another way before anything goes wrong with the engine because of oil failures any way. Don't obsess about which oil, filter or interval to use!
 
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