Oil Pan Fracture
- Thread starter irnbru83
- Start date
I would definitely try the solder before shelling out $655. Another option is a salvage yard. I checked http://www.car-part.com/ and there is a used one in Houston for $175. Apparently the MazdaSpeed3 pan is the same as a CX7.
- :
- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
silver foil AC ducting tape is 12 bux a roll
JB weld is $7
BigDaddyMS3
Member
- :
- Mazda, Speed3
Cracked Pan
Have your friend weld that sucker if needed. After you drain and pull the pan you can perform a visual inspection yourself. As others mentioned, JB Weld or a Pick-aPart yard would be alternatives.
BTW, if the dealer performs the oil changes should'nt they have some responsibility in this. Did they perhaps over tighten the drain plug?
I'd use Superglue before duct dape, (lol)
Have your friend weld that sucker if needed. After you drain and pull the pan you can perform a visual inspection yourself. As others mentioned, JB Weld or a Pick-aPart yard would be alternatives.
BTW, if the dealer performs the oil changes should'nt they have some responsibility in this. Did they perhaps over tighten the drain plug?
I'd use Superglue before duct dape, (lol)
They are obviously claiming no responsibility, which is fine. I don't make it a habit of driving over s*** in the road, but oh well.
I got under there and saw the fracture. Wipe it clean, then see bubbles, then see a film of oil, then a drop forms. Takes quite some time, but still, needs to be fixed. It's on that small square extruded section that is pretty much the closest surface of the pan to the ground.
Is there any special advice you guys can give on pulling the pan? SEEMS like it should be straight forward, but I really haven't spent much time under my MS3 because it has been damn good to me.
I got under there and saw the fracture. Wipe it clean, then see bubbles, then see a film of oil, then a drop forms. Takes quite some time, but still, needs to be fixed. It's on that small square extruded section that is pretty much the closest surface of the pan to the ground.
Is there any special advice you guys can give on pulling the pan? SEEMS like it should be straight forward, but I really haven't spent much time under my MS3 because it has been damn good to me.
Shoot a PM to justagirl@mazmart
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/member.php?10163-justagirl-mazmart
She works at a Mazda salvage yard and can probably get you a better price if you need a new one. Just another option.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/member.php?10163-justagirl-mazmart
She works at a Mazda salvage yard and can probably get you a better price if you need a new one. Just another option.
BigDaddyMS3
Member
- :
- Mazda, Speed3
Pan Removal
Once you get past the underside skirt, just loosen the motor mounts and you should have direct access to the pan bolts.
Once you get past the underside skirt, just loosen the motor mounts and you should have direct access to the pan bolts.
Its sealed on with RTV, also I believe some of the front cover bolts go into the pan, you DO NOT need to remove the front cover. So DO NOT under any conditions try and remove the front cover or take off the crank pulley, just the bolts that go into the oil pan. Also some of the transmission bolts go into the pan, you should not need to pull the trans though.
I always lift the cars via the pinch welds and put the jackstands under the subframe where the control arm bolts on.
I always lift the cars via the pinch welds and put the jackstands under the subframe where the control arm bolts on.
Okay. Here's an update.
Being an electrical engineer by trade, I typically defer to the MEs at work (specifically those who have been mechanics in a past or present life). With the reasoning that the leak is INCREDIBLY slow, my first strategy has been to JB Weld the sucker. So I drained the oil, cleaned the almost invisible crack with brake cleaner, prepped the area with a Dremel, then JB Welded the sucker.
I have surgery tomorrow morning, so I won't be putting the oil back in until after I'm healed up enough to do so. I guess at that point I'll see if the leak is sealed or not. Wish me luck.
Thanks for the help though. If this doesn't work, that pan is coming out pronto.
Being an electrical engineer by trade, I typically defer to the MEs at work (specifically those who have been mechanics in a past or present life). With the reasoning that the leak is INCREDIBLY slow, my first strategy has been to JB Weld the sucker. So I drained the oil, cleaned the almost invisible crack with brake cleaner, prepped the area with a Dremel, then JB Welded the sucker.
I have surgery tomorrow morning, so I won't be putting the oil back in until after I'm healed up enough to do so. I guess at that point I'll see if the leak is sealed or not. Wish me luck.
Thanks for the help though. If this doesn't work, that pan is coming out pronto.
