Oil Filters?

[Badvmc]

I read somewhere, not to use Fram oil filters. (no)

What is the reason for that? What is the best recomended oil filter on the market? (scratch)

 

[ZoomZoomH]

someone posted his research on the suckiness of Fram filter here:

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4301&highlight=fram+oil+filter

(forgive my sins for linking to the 'other' forum :'( )

 

[Racer 5]

I use Mazda OEM filters. The way I see it, a Mazda engineer sat down and designed the thing, was supported by a huge budget, and was backed by years of research.

I use Mazda oil filters with AMSOIL synthetic, car runs unbelievably smooth.

 

[ZoomZoomH]

I use Mazda OEM filters. The way I see it, a Mazda engineer sat down and designed the thing, was supported by a huge budget, and was backed by years of research.

I use Mazda oil filters with AMSOIL synthetic, car runs unbelievably smooth.

Ditto.

I use Mobil 1 in conjunction with OEM filter.

I should also add that I use the OEM V6 filter, which is about 3/4" taller than the Protege filter. It's a perfect fit and should provide additional filtering capacity

 

[Badvmc]

And what about the k&N oil filter? (thought)

 

[Don]

Ditto.

I use Mobil 1 in conjunction with OEM filter.

I should also add that I use the OEM V6 filter, which is about 3/4" taller than the Protege filter. It's a perfect fit and should provide additional filtering capacity

It may be a "perfect fit" as it screws onto the filter plate without leaking, but the insides of the filter may be quite different, as to the anti-drainback valve (if any) or the bypass valve pressure or several other things.

As you said, "an engineer, supported by a huge budget . . . " may have designed a filter for the 4 banger, and a similar (yet completely different) one for the V-6.

Don

 

[ZoomZoomH]

It may be a "perfect fit" as it screws onto the filter plate without leaking, but the insides of the filter may be quite different, as to the anti-drainback valve (if any) or the bypass valve pressure or several other things.

As you said, "an engineer, supported by a huge budget . . . " may have designed a filter for the 4 banger, and a similar (yet completely different) one for the V-6.

Don

we shall see... when I asked the parts department guy if the v6 filter will work with the Protege, he confirmed that the v6 filter will indeed work with the Protege.

I'll let you know when my engine seizes up

 

[PR5hokie]

When I changed my oil I switched to a K&N filter. It is a bit more $ but I switched to synthetic and I can lengthen my time between changes. K&N has the drain back "valve" and also has a 1" nut welded on the end for easy removal/installation. I like this feature since as you all know there is like zero room to work down there.

Matt

 

[MP5s Make Ready]

Good job

Wow that was some good information, that guy deserves a medal for all the research he had to do.

 

[Kooldino]

I use OEM filters + Mobil 1. ALTHOUGH, my dealer charges a whopping $10.10 for an OEM filter! Where can I get one cheaper?

 

[MP3_PR5]

I use OEM filters + Mobil 1. ALTHOUGH, my dealer charges a whopping $10.10 for an OEM filter! Where can I get one cheaper?

Damn, I just bought two at my dealer and it only cost me about $13! :wtf: Try a different dealer!

 

[JcsMP3]

When I changed my oil I switched to a K&N filter. It is a bit more $ but I switched to synthetic and I can lengthen my time between changes.

Matt

WRONG WRONG WRONG !!!!

Sorry but you can't prolong your oil change juse cause you have synthetic. Synthetic may provide better lubrication, even little or no chance of thermal break down... but that's not the point of changing your oil frequently.

Changing your oil every 3000 miles it is to remove the junk that is sitting in the oil. The deposits is what causes the engine wear... not the oil itself. I have never heard of any engine having any oil thermally breaking down... meaning -losing their lubricating abilities...

Change your oil more frequently and this will improve engine life, regardless if you use synthetic or regular oil.

Jc

 

[fastdrvr23]

I use OEM filters + Mobil 1. ALTHOUGH, my dealer charges a whopping $10.10 for an OEM filter! Where can I get one cheaper?

I bought 10 OEM filters, 10 oil drain plug washers and a bottle of touch up paint from http://www.trussvillemazda.com/parts/index.cfm for something like $63.00 total shipped. If I remember correctly the filters were $4.25 a piece. Try them out...

 

[Don]

WRONG WRONG WRONG !!!!

Sorry but you can't prolong your oil change juse cause you have synthetic. Synthetic may provide better lubrication, even little or no chance of thermal break down... but that's not the point of changing your oil frequently.

Changing your oil every 3000 miles it is to remove the junk that is sitting in the oil. The deposits is what causes the engine wear... not the oil itself. I have never heard of any engine having any oil thermally breaking down... meaning -losing their lubricating abilities...

We can all politely disagree, can't we?

The manufacturer says he can go to 6,000 miles running ordinary oil - In fact, that's what they recommend.

Nearly every synthetic oil manufacturer makes mention of "thermal breakdown" in their advertising, so I guess it must happen, and this is indeed one of the strengths of synthetic oil.

I think most everyone would agree that the synthetics are a better lubricant than ordinary oil, and that they may safely be used for at least twice as long as ordinary oils, or to 12,000 miles, should the owner like. There are many new cars sold now which come with synthetic standard, and some of them recommend 15K as a change interval - I think at least one OEM recommends 25K

If PR5hokie wants to go to 8 to 10K for change intervals, I'm sure he'll be fairly "safe."

Personally, I do 3,000 mile changes myself (with ordinary oil) but when I DO run synthetic, 5 to 6K changes are what I aim for.

Don

 

[JcsMP3]

We can all politely disagree, can't we?

Sorry if I came off a little harsh there but I was just dealing with a peaved customer. So I unintentionally took it out here.

Thermal breakdown is something they mention but is un heard of at the new intervals at which we change the oil. Be it 3,6,12 or even 25... I have been reading up alot and I do mean alot on oil, filters and by pass filters.

An oil filter only stops the particles of 25-40 micron size. What causes engine damage are the particles below this level 5-20 microns. The more frequently you change your oil the more frequently your engine gets fresh uncontaminated oil. Regardless it being synthetic, or regular oil the contaminants that cause wear in your engine are still there. Their are a few products out there sold as by pass oil filters which take out everything down to the 1 micron size. Virtually eliminating engine wear so they say. I am not here to sell their system so enough about that.

The more frequently you change your oil be it dino oil or syn....

Jc

 

[Hawkeye]

Damn, I just bought two at my dealer and it only cost me about $13! :wtf: Try a different dealer!

my dealer wanted me to pay 13.75 for one filter! They are the greediest bastards on the planet. I've compared their prices on other items to other mazda dealers, and their mark-up has to be around 400-500%! :mad:

 

[ZoomThis]

I decided to use a Fram filter. Personally, the engineers decide or designed a filter for me to use is a bunch of crap. Being an engineer, we choose something that is a standard first. If we cannot do that, then we decide to be ORIGINAL. As for oil to use, I high recommend Mobile 1 synthetic 15W30. The oil pressure and response is worth the extra $$.

ZMTHIS

 

[Hawkeye]

ZoomThis, do you mean 5W-30? Also, why spend the extra money on the oil if you're gonna go cheap on the filter? I put in Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 filter. In addition, I used the filter for the V6's (like in the 626) to get more filtering surface area. The general concensus is that Fram filters suck.

just my .02

 

[pingdum]

Has anyone here ever heard or tried a Nippon filter. I went to a local auto parts store that specializes in import parts to get a new filter for my P5 and that's what they sold me. It's the same height as the OEM but it's got a bigger diameter body. The diameter of the sealing O ring seems to be the same as the OEM. Most of the writing on it is in Japanese, but there is one part number that looks like it might be a Mazda number: B6YO-14-300. I put it on but was totaly paranoid so I took it off after 100 miles and put a PureOne #14620 (the one for 6cyl's) on. Should I go back and complain or will I look like a fool because he actually sold me a better filter? If that's the case, then I'll just keep it until the next change. Which by the way for me is Amsoil which I plan on changing every 5000 to 6000 miles. While I agree that cleaning the junk out is the main reason to change the oil, it seems to me that if an oil lubricates better then there will be less junk in the oil due to less friction, which is how the particles are created to begin with.

 

[Don]

"No mods until it's paid for"

What a unique (and sensible) approach!

Don