Oil filter housing cross threaded? 2020 CX-9

N

NYCMazdaCX9

Did an oil change on my 2020 Cx9 yesterday and I emptied the oil as usual and removed the filter as usual. When screwing in a new oil filter (fram ultra xg6607), I noticed that it wasn’t spinning in easy after a few spins and all the way. Gave it some more pressure on the spinning (should’ve known better) and it was not meeting the oil filter housing lip like it should like in previous occasions. Out of abundance of caution and removed the oil filter and verified that I had the right model on the filter itself, which I did. I was doing the oil change in a autozone parking lot so got another oil filter (Mobil 1 m1108a in the store. The new Mobil filter spinner easier but with hesitation but I continued until hand tight. And yes, I made sure the previous oil filter gasket wasn’t still on the oil filter housing. I thought the top of the filter mated with the oil filter housing with a tight seal. I was wrong! When driving after “completing the job,” I noticed smoke coming form the engine bay. I parked the car and noticed a small amount of oil on the bottom of the under shield. I removed the shield and noticed oil splatter on the bottom of the car, above the shield. I had a wide wrench in the car so I tightened with a good amount of force. I then cleaned the underside of the car as best as I could. Left it clean enough that I would notice if the splatter happened again. Took a longer drive and didn’t notice anymore smoke after about 15 min of driving but I had my concerns. Coming back home after about a 1 hour drive, I noticed smoke again. Looked under the car and noticed oil wetness again under the shield (but not as much as before).

So now, should I continue to tighten the filter with the wrench? I am almost positive that the threads on the oil filter housing are cross threaded. How difficult is it to change the oil filter housing? Has anyone had the same issue happen to them?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
You should remove the filter and closely inspect the threads on the housing and the filter you used. That will give you an idea of whether you have a problem or not. Spin on filters usually only need a good hand tight seal so it does sound like something is going on with your setup. If the threads are messed up you may be able to use a properly sized die to clean them up. Be very careful if you go that route to ensure any shavings generated are completely cleaned up.
 
So I shouldn't tighten the filter more? Then research and get a new oil filter adapter/housing and do the adapter/housing replacement in the next oil change?
 
I personally wouldn't tighten it further or leave it until the next oil change.

It looks like you have some options for next steps. It sounds like either the filter or the housing crossthreaded. I would get a replacement filter, then get back under the car and remove the installed filter. You can then inspect the threads on the housing, and if they look ok, try to install the new filter to see if you have the same issue, though I would not crank the new filter on if you encounter any resistance before the seal makes contact. If it doesn't spin on by hand, you'll probably just need to clean up the threads with a die as @rowlands57 suggested. If you're not comfortable with doing that or if you don't have the tools, a good independent mechanic would probably be able to help.
 
As other people mentioned already, The filter should spin on freely with zero resistance. If it doesn't, then something is wrong. If you force it and a thread breaks off then you'll have a bigger problem. I say leave it for now if the leak is not too bad
 
If I were to try to fix the oil filter adapter by using a doe to fix the threads, wouldn’t I have to take out the oil filter adapter? I don’t there would be space underneath the car to turn the die stock and fix the threads while the adapter is still attached to the car.

If I have to remove the adapter, I might as well replace it with a new one.
 
They do make thread chasers that you can run down with a socket vs. using the stock setup with the longer handle. However, at that point the cost of the set may be close to the replacement part. If it is that accessible maybe it is your best route.
 
Update:

I bought the Amazon thread chaser kit and used it on the crossed threaded oil filter adapter bolt. I manually spun the thread chaser on the oil filter adapter bolt and at first it was spinning freely, but midway, it was hard to spin. Used the adapter and ratchet to carefully spin the chaser until it got to the end. Did it back and forth a few times then I tried a mobil one oil filter after cleaning the threads. The filter spun freely until the end then I tightened it by hand. NO MORE OIL LEAKS!

Also, the oil filter adapter/housing would be a hassle to replace. It is blocked by a bolted metal shield that protects the right front axle. So, I would have to remove:

lug nuts, wheel, axle bolt, caliper/brakes?, axle, metal shield protecting the axle and finally the oil filter adapter housing.

I am glad the thread chaser worked and thanks for the recommendations guys!
 
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