Oil filter change and recommended filter cap wrench...

[macanix]

So I'm at 69,990 miles today and 100miles from Service (oil) reminder. So I got a gallon of 0W-20 Pennzoil (US$23 at wally mart) and used my wonderfully helpful neighbor's garage and ramps. I had a new 6-pack of OEM filters for my 2017 CX-5 and really should have let the car cool down but boy that oil came out hot and fast into the oil drain pan.

I took off my filter 1WPY with a trusty cap wrench that fit for the last few years, cleaned the area and got a new filter out and realized it was not the OEM 1WPY-14-302... that I normally had but the new OEM one is a PE01-14-302B. It is wider than the 1WPY and my cap wrench won't fit. Not so much a problem now, as I only hand tighten to put on.

But thinking ahead to the next 3-4K mile change, I need a different cap wrench. I looked and searched and all the results were that of Mazda owners asking what wrench but answers were not helpful...at all. However, typing this the Already Discussed ? had some useful info and I'll just clarify that there are DIFFERENT sized cap wrenches and Mazda OEM filters.

I don't have a metric rule so I can only guess the 1WPY is 63.5-64mm wide? Where the PE01 is 65-67mm wide? I did find a cheap 65-67mm 14-side cap wrench for US$8 and hope that is correct. I don't have a set and will also get some filter pliers/wrench because ... some things you need to remove and won't by hand alone. I don't want the ratcheting 3-wing kind since you have to hold that, and the strap kind doesn't allow for tight spaces. I also think I may drill a hole in the cap to allow poking out a stuck filter since they get oil on them and not easily extracted from the cap.

Finally to add that since my last change, I used 5W-20 for the Summer and I lost THREE mpg with same range, same driving load. Tires are all inflated correctly. Recent air filter. Not changed gas type (reg vs prem). I'm hoping its true that 0W is better and OEM recommended in the Mazda manual. Might also get some Liqui Moly additive (if you have a suggested site where to get for discount...lmk).

My neighbor was impressed that the Mazda had the filter and drain all in easy access vs his Ford and wife's GMC.

 

[SparkYellow]

I always tighten the oil filter by hand. They stay put and come off with reasonable efforts especially if you lubed the rubber gasket before putting it on.

LM moly treatment is available on Amazon for about $9. Can it be cheaper elsewhere?

Would you be interested in replacing the drain plug with a drain valve?

 

[leeharvey418]

Slip-joint pliers (like Channel Lock) are a pretty reliable fallback option if you don’t have the correct size of end cap wrench. It’s a little awkward getting them up to the oil filter on a SkyActiv four-cylinder, but I just had to do it two weeks ago, and I managed reasonably well.

I endorse the idea of replacing your drain plug with a valve. I’ve had a Fumoto F106S on my CX-5 for five years, and it’s very easy and convenient. It fits above the aero cover, and the lever is protected but still easy to access.

 

[N7turbo]

I have been using a strap wrench from Kobalt. Even tightening just to spec (3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact) it can't be undone by hand after a few thousand miles. You need something to get it started.

I took off my filter 1WPY with a trusty cap wrench that fit for the last few years, cleaned the area and got a new filter out and realized it was not the OEM 1WPY-14-302... that I normally had but the new OEM one is a PE01-14-302B. It is wider than the 1WPY and my cap wrench won't fit. Not so much a problem now, as I only hand tighten to put on.

I see you're using 0W-20 which tells me non-turbo. The OEM filter would be 1WPE; 1WPY is for the Turbo. Anyway, they are the same filter media and shell. They are indeed smaller than the OEM from Hiroshima. I took a picture of mine at my first oil change:

The PE01-14-302B filter that you cite is likely the "value line" filter. I have not seen one in person.

I thought about getting something like https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned) but since the strap wrench has been "good enough" (fiddly as it is) I haven't bothered. Also, before too long I'll be transitioning to changing the filter only every other change, making investment in tools even less worth it. The only thing I'll have to do is drain from the valve, close the valve, fill up with new, measure the level, and I'm done.

 

[Jmaz]

The OP might consider visiting an auto parts store with the intended filter and purchase a decent Lisle brand cup wrench. The cheap Walmart dual size (ex: 65-67) are lighter gauge metal and don't grip the filter as deep and slip. Also, Lisle makes an expandable wrench to grip hard to remove filters. It digs in and will chew up the filter but grips well. Choose the appropriate size range as thee is more than one. I have one in reserve as a last chance, "save my butt" tool.

63600 Import Car Filter Wrench

Fits Filters from 2 1/2" to 3 1/8".

www.lislecorp.com

61600 65mm 14 Flute End Cap Filter Wrench for Toyota

The new heavy duty design for the 65mm diameter 14 flutes oil filter canisters has been improved by adding heat-treated metal disc to the drive area and adding two solid welds to the surface to increase strength.

www.lislecorp.com

 

[SparkYellow]

I didn't think 5w20 would make a difference in the summer? Same viscosity.

Trying to understand why everyone is using a wrench to loosen/tighten the oil filter. Is it due to limited clearance? When you have the car on ramps, do you get your head and upper torso under the front end or do you work from the side?

 

[N7turbo]

Trying to understand why everyone is using a wrench to loosen/tighten the oil filter. Is it due to limited clearance? When you have the car on ramps, do you get your head and upper torso under the front end or do you work from the side?

Leverage. It is too tight to undo by hand.