OBX header instal Protege5
- Thread starter MP5cd
- Start date
Replica said:I thought my OBX made gains....then i went to a dyno...
The header certainly does clean up the engine though.
They make gains, keep in mind peak gains are NOT all that matters, dont forget about gains throughout the power band.
I run 16.0 all I have with an intake header exhaust & thats 1.2 seconds faster then stock, I think at least SOME gains would be neededto go over a second faster.
$10000000
You didnt do the Dyno runs correctly
Number 1 the ECU needs to be reset and have time to recalibrate itself inorder to get the full gains.
If you just did a dyno run stock, then swapped over the headers and did another dyno run, your dyno runs show no usefull information.
Or it was done wrong in another way.
With just an intake I dynoed 101whp and 111trq.Rac3rX said:
With the mazdaspeed axle back and OBX header, with the CEL fix AND resetting the ECU and driving the car for about 3 months, I dynoed again. 104whp and 114trq. I'm not sure how I could have done the dyno pulls "wrong", I don't operate the dyno. Please share your dynos, I'd like to see how everyone else is doing "post-header."
Peak power isn't that important, I agree. After installing the parts, my power curve was all pokey looking and didn't pull as smooth as stock. I'm sure the assumptions are coming that somehow I messed something up or it could be there is alot of hype and no one wants to be realistic about what is really possible with the FS-DE.
There are obviously going to be people here with higher stock dynos, and rightly so. Every dyno and operator comes out with different results. Every P5 and sedan that was modified I raced, I either beat or pulled even with. This isn't a typical "Replica hates mazdas" post, just my experiences with the mazda i owned. Hopefully future owners will have better results.
Your increased 1/4 time was probably due to a better 60 foot. A 16 flat is pretty good for a Protege. It's close to catching my SI, and stock MSP's. (RTM)
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Replica said:
A few things will affect the dyno reading, and make it difficult to get the gains clocked exactly, but possible, and you must check for it. Humidity, & Air Temperature, a tough combo to get exactly the same on any other day, but again posible. There is also Oil quality. Its best for something that takes a ECU reset to have as close to the same quality of oil as possible, dropping new stuff in before the pull, both times.
And then there is the peak, not being the only point in the power band to look at, you should take several points and compair at those given points, not just peak.
If your not pulling smooth, I would check your plugs/cables, & oil
My 60 footer is actually slower because I have more spin from the tires 1sr & 2nd gear and have to keep it in check, due to having more power. They keep track times BUT THRERE IS NO TRACK PREP, they go all out Friday nights and do the full track prep, but it cost 4 times more to get in, so I sticking to my 5$ night with time slips untill I feel Im fast enough.
I also ran 2 runs at 16 flat, 16.048 @ 87mph & 16.08X @ 87mph
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Those runs were done with old oil (I changed it today) and on a cold drizzly night, hook up was hard to come by.
I also did a engine flush when I changed the oil, and ran a Bottle of new fluid threw the system, before filling her with new oil/lucas oil stabalizer with a slight overfill (about .3 of a bottle, It sits just above the full line) for oil starvation safty.
I also had the spare still in because the track is a good 30 min drive out side the city, bagging it next week so its not going to be in the car neithor will the Jack or rear seats.
I will also have the tranny fluid changed over the next few days, Im doing a Penzoil Syncromesh/Lucas oil stabalizer combo. It should be all set for Tuesday's 1/4 mile runs.
I also use 91 when at the track, and fill it half way.
Tire pressure was @ 17 PSI, Im going to try out 15PSI next week (Progressivly)
In case you cant tell, Im hunting a high 15 second time. (silverpro (laugh)
My mods are only a Injen CAI/Axl Back Exhaust/Tsudo 4-1 header/Nology wires + Denso Plugs/RR-Racing F/R Motor mounts.
Individually they dont do much, but all together they make for some alright gains, uber smooth aditional pull, and passing power in 5th gear.
I also did a engine flush when I changed the oil, and ran a Bottle of new fluid threw the system, before filling her with new oil/lucas oil stabalizer with a slight overfill (about .3 of a bottle, It sits just above the full line) for oil starvation safty.
I also had the spare still in because the track is a good 30 min drive out side the city, bagging it next week so its not going to be in the car neithor will the Jack or rear seats.
I will also have the tranny fluid changed over the next few days, Im doing a Penzoil Syncromesh/Lucas oil stabalizer combo. It should be all set for Tuesday's 1/4 mile runs.
I also use 91 when at the track, and fill it half way.
Tire pressure was @ 17 PSI, Im going to try out 15PSI next week (Progressivly)
In case you cant tell, Im hunting a high 15 second time. (silverpro (laugh)
My mods are only a Injen CAI/Axl Back Exhaust/Tsudo 4-1 header/Nology wires + Denso Plugs/RR-Racing F/R Motor mounts.
Individually they dont do much, but all together they make for some alright gains, uber smooth aditional pull, and passing power in 5th gear.
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bumpin_p5 said:
Ive heard bad things about the wrap keeping in too much heat and damaging the header.
There is Jet coating & similar stuff you can do.
Me Im going a different route. I originally grabbed some wrap to do wrap them but not wanting todammage them I went a different route.
I want the headers to stand up to the task, but I also want them to look good, and those looks to last long.
So I opted for this http://www.thermotec.com/products/full/12001/12001.html
Its made for the wrap itself, but works as a paint directly on metals.
Im going to spray them silver. And Redo them if ever they get dull.
