Mikeee2 The transmission goes into a performance mode for a few seconds after you release the gas quickly. It holds the gear thinking you took your foot off quickly so you must want engine brake assistance as you took your foot off and will probably also brake, or you are about to gun it again and want it to be in the lower gear for performance. Try releasing the gas slower and I think you will avoid the "hold the gear" logic and it will upshift normally and likely improve your mileage.
Noticed the gear doesn't up shift immediately when I take my foot of the gas pedal...
- Thread starter mikeee2
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I too think the 2 mile trip + low temps is the MPG killer. The engine warms itself up and also runs a little richer to get the catalytic converter warmed-up, such that it could do its function. In other cars, the torque converter does not lock until it warms up too, which can knock few MPGs off on its own.
Regarding AT gears, I noticed that if pressing the pedal past some threshold while going on an incline, the engine will hold gears even if I practically release the pedal (e.g. because a turn is coming). Also, if I press the pedal at WOT or close to it, it will delay up-shifting for a few seconds, even if I released the pedal altogether. I don't think this will have any impact on your average MPG.
In general, most gear selection of the AT in normal driving is to get lowest RPM possible, in cases below 1500 where it will struggle to accelerate. Going down hill, it will help you with engine breaking when you press the break pedal, perhaps a tad more than it should.
Regarding AT gears, I noticed that if pressing the pedal past some threshold while going on an incline, the engine will hold gears even if I practically release the pedal (e.g. because a turn is coming). Also, if I press the pedal at WOT or close to it, it will delay up-shifting for a few seconds, even if I released the pedal altogether. I don't think this will have any impact on your average MPG.
In general, most gear selection of the AT in normal driving is to get lowest RPM possible, in cases below 1500 where it will struggle to accelerate. Going down hill, it will help you with engine breaking when you press the break pedal, perhaps a tad more than it should.
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Yes I know how to drive a manual nothing to forgive. Because you were already at speed when you took your foot completely off the gas to slow down your car did not up shift. It's called engine breaking. The difference is if you are accelerating and let off the gas slightly your car will up shift as you choose the speed you want to maintain. This is caused by high rpm's during acceleration causing the engine to find a higher gear.
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(no) Seriously, if you know how to drive a manual transmission you would know what you are talking about. If your car upshifted it would bog down and stall? LOL. You telling me, at D, you full throttle the gas, let go of gas, if computer upshift to 2nd it would bog? it would stall? OMG. Do you know what you are talking about? Also, no one depress clutch to coast. You depress it and downshift or pop it to Neutral then take your foot off clutch if you want coasting to a red light. That my friend if you keep your foot on the clutch it will kill your clutch.
Maybe you can answer this question Mr. Manual Transmission. At the green light, you are on D, you floored the gas , rpm goes to 6,500 RPM, you let go of your gas foot completely. What happens?
According to your theory, it will go slowly from 6,500 rpm on 1st gear back down to under 1,000 rpm on 1st gear and all this time it was REVing to annoy everyone around you. Right? (rockon)
TreyP
2018 Soul Red AWD Touring CX-5
Wrong on both parts. Lots of people depress the clutch while coasting to a stop. And how exactly would that kill the clutch? The clutch is disengaged and therefore no wear is occurring at that time.
Because you are riding on the clutch while its in gear. Unless you are in N. The riding on clutch is fine if you are already close to red light but if you are say 35 MPH you wouldn't depress clutch and brake for it to go from 35 to 0. If you were at 10 or 15mph that's fine because it will stop right away.
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Dude chill out. You seriously are mis reading what I am saying, so maybe you should have bought a manual since you can't figure out how to drive an automatic. Your last point doesn't even make sense. You can't be in drive at 6500 rpm's from a stop unless you are power breaking your automatic. Got that Mr. Automatic. If you are so performance oriented you picked the wrong car to buy.
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(cryhard). I checked the dash and red starts at 6,000 rpm so I am not sure when the Rev limiter kicks in but 6500 shouldn't be a problem. I have yet to try. Just floor it and it will go up to when it bounce off the rev-limiter. NO NEED FOR POWER BREAKING. When you pedal to metal it starts at 1st not 2nd.
My last point doesn't make sense? That's because you have no seat time driving m/t but you wanted to say you have. That's why I am telling you the basics about how a car works. Any decent foot on the gas and let go is an UPSHIFT. When you do nothing after that it slowly downshifts. Engine Breaking is when you pop it in a lower gear to jump the RPM. In D (automatic) it does not happen. These are basics that anyone that drives a car "should" know.
The cx-5 is not my car. I drive a G35. This is my wife's car. I do drive it too and I want to get the best mpg for her and during the times I drive. I know cx-5 is not a power house. I started this thread because I noticed it's not acting right when I let go of gas and that's how everything started. But you said when you let go of gas it DOWNSHIFTS. I wanted to tell you it's ABSOLUTELY WRONG. Giving you advice.
Just to answer the question of letting go of gas at 6,500 rpm on 1st gear or 6,000 rpm if that makes you feel better. The car is probably close to 30mph. The second you let go of gas, NOT ONLY DOES IT NOT DOWNSHIFT, it will UPSHIFT 2 or 3 gears to either Gear #3 or Gear #4. Upshift two or three gears. Got it?
Regarding the performance oriented, I test drove 2013 but waited for 2014 because it had the extra 29 horses. Is that performance oriented? LOL
Regarding the performance oriented, I test drove 2013 but waited for 2014 because it had the extra 29 horses. Is that performance oriented? LOL
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If your cx5 never downshifts when you let off the gas I will give you advice. See your dealer right away as your car has a transmission problem. Also not that you really care, but since you keep attacking me, my first manual car was a brand new 1984 ford escort 4 speed manual lol. I love driving manuals, but they are a pain in the butt in traffic jams. Is your g35 a manual? I almost bought one, but went with a 328 instead. I do use the manual mode, but of course it's not the same as having a clutch. The cx5 is my wife's car as well.
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I am not attacking you but how many times do I have to say it? When you have a good foot on the gas and you let go it UPSHIFTS. Eventually it will downshift back down to 0. But that instant after you gas and let go it upshifts. (hand). If I bring it to dealer they will call me an idiot if I am telling them that I want the car to downshift when I take my foot off gas. When you downshift the rpm goes higher. When you let go of gas does your RPM go higher? If your car does, you really need to bring your car to the dealer not mines.
NOooooooo. I am not attacking anyone. If you drive a manual, then you should KNOW it upshifts. Anyway, I don't want this to drag on but really it UPSHIFTS and not DOWNSHIFTS just so everyone gets this clear.
With that being said. No, my g35 is autotragic. I am thinking of swapping it for a g37 m/t but have to wait for the right time. Before that all my cars were m/t. Anyway, long story.
I do not use manualmatic mode because it's useless.
Just so you know...
If you already have a heavy foot on the gas with rpm say 3,000 or higher, let go it will upshift. But if you have a grandma foot and car is already at very low rpm (say, 2000 rpm or under), you let go of gas, it won't upshift because it wouldn't make sense to bring the rpm to even lower. From there it will eventually downshift and coast down to 0 so your car can stop. Heritage07, my friend, that's my advice for you on this thread. The whole point of the computer keep upshifting when you let go of gas is so it can reach to a higher gear and drop the rpm (SAVE GAS).
If you already have a heavy foot on the gas with rpm say 3,000 or higher, let go it will upshift. But if you have a grandma foot and car is already at very low rpm (say, 2000 rpm or under), you let go of gas, it won't upshift because it wouldn't make sense to bring the rpm to even lower. From there it will eventually downshift and coast down to 0 so your car can stop. Heritage07, my friend, that's my advice for you on this thread. The whole point of the computer keep upshifting when you let go of gas is so it can reach to a higher gear and drop the rpm (SAVE GAS).
I assume your first post must have mentioned something about a 2 mile local trip but was edited later as I don't see any reference to it? It is completely normal to have very low fuel economy on very short trips. Especially when it is cold out. Coming out of the street I live at, we have to speed up to about 50 to get onto the main road then either hit a stoplight to turn left or take a shortcut through a parking lot most of the time. Either way ensures our fuel economy starts out very bad and there isn't enough time on very short trips to get the trip fuel economy back up. A big factor in the fuel economy that each of us can get is the local traffic routes you have and take very often.
If you were around my area, I would offer to drive your car with my monitoring stuff on my tablet and also to let you see the difference on how things are with my CX-5 (even though mine is a 6MT sport).
Forgot why I edited. Usually wording/grammar etc. Yeah, I am beginning to think it's the short trips. Here's a strange thing though. I only drive the short trips during weekdays. One time I filled up gas during a Saturday and it was mainly highway and mix in some local (but no traffic). That weekend I think it briefly touch 23+. Came the weekdays and it dragged it back down to 21.
You have a 2013 m/t sport which ultimately will get better mpg. That's as good as it gets since you have the 2.0 / fwd / m/t. All 3 combinations of smaller engine / lighter / fwd. I actually tested that when I first looked at the cx-5. I thought about buying that for myself and giving my car to wife but ultimately changed mind and wait for 2014 cx-5 so my wife can have it. During my test drive of the 2013, I find that I had to keep revving the engine for it to generate passing power. Don't get me wrong, smooth as butter shifter, very fun to drive, but just constantly shifting.
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Got it
Have 800 miles on the OD so far. I just finished varying the RPMs for the first 600 break in recommendation in the manual. I am averaging 24.5 MPG without any real highway driving as yet. My wife and I are lead footed drivers so I am OK if this stands. Got to love running 87 with no ping!Got it
(thumb) Glad you finally agreed (I hope).
Your transmission is operating as designed. I does have rev-matching for shifts. The following text is from the Mazda CX-5 Service Highlights page 871 :
AAS (Active Adaptive Shift) mode operation
Accelerator pedal fully closed suddenly and returned
When the accelerator pedal is fully closed and returned at a certain speed or more, shift-up is inhibited for
specified time to improve speed control and reacceleration performance.
Brake is strongly depressed
When decelerating at a certain speed or more, a lower gear is selected so that re-acceleration is
performed smoothly.
During a shift change with the brake pedal depressed firmly, blipping control (synchronization to engine
speed) is performed to shorten the shifting time.
When cornering
While cornering at a turn with a radius of less than a specified value, shift up is suppressed to improve
vehicle speed performance while cornering and reacceleration performance after cornering.
During high degree of vehicle ascent/descent
During a certain level of vehicle ascent/descent, gears are selected appropriate to the driving conditions
for driving comfort.
During ascent
While ascending a slope of a certain grade or more, slope mode control prevents unnecessary shift-up by
maintaining the appropriate gear.
During descent
While descending a slope of a certain grade or more and depressing the brake pedal, the gears are
appropriately shifted down according to the estimated slope angle for effective use of engine braking. As a
result, frequent brake pedal operation is reduced.
Mike,
Sorry for not responding sooner but you and I have very similar trips. In the AM, 6 mile commute on Old Country Rd from light to light. In the PM, I take the Northern State (slightly longer but often quicker) which sometimes moves and sometimes doesn't. I also picked up that you're turning 3000rpms @ 55MPH. That seems high since I usually get near 3000rpms at around 70mph.
I think you definitely need to bring this to the dealer since both your MPG and RPMS are out of whack in relation to mine.
Let us know what happens.
Sorry for not responding sooner but you and I have very similar trips. In the AM, 6 mile commute on Old Country Rd from light to light. In the PM, I take the Northern State (slightly longer but often quicker) which sometimes moves and sometimes doesn't. I also picked up that you're turning 3000rpms @ 55MPH. That seems high since I usually get near 3000rpms at around 70mph.
I think you definitely need to bring this to the dealer since both your MPG and RPMS are out of whack in relation to mine.
Let us know what happens.
If you guys are close to each other, maybe you could try driving each other's vehicles to see if there is any noticable difference? From what Mike said, it sounds like he was at 3000rpm at 55mph with his foot on the gas. A little after he let off the gas, he was in a higher gear and the RPMs were lower. That sounds normal.
Yes, if you want to accelerate quickly a smaller engine means you have to downshift and step on the gas a bit more. Maybe I missed it but what kind of speeds were you going on the highway/freeway? If you closely monitor the current MPG on the info display, you should get a good idea of how accelerating and higher speeds affect the MPG. It would be good to get another owner with a different experience to drive your car though and see if they notice anything different.
