Notice: Important tsb 2008 models - missing bracket

[table5511]

Somehow I've never seen this TSB, and it is not listed on any master database that I am aware of, even paid mechanical databases.

From how it reads, my interpretation is that somehow this bracket got "deleted" from the build process (oops) for a few months in 2008, and then the (oops) was discovered later. I guess the symptoms are a slight vibration in the steering wheel and pedals at low rpm - vibration in the engine bay going through into the pedals and steering wheel.

PLEASE NOTE - There is also a M-TIP (mechanic's tip) that deals with a bracket secured to the firewall that is missing a flange nut, and this causes some minor buzzing noises around 1900rpm. See the TSB list thread for that M-TIP on this forum.

I am posting this as an individual thread so that I can attach the TSB directly to the post.

This applies to production dates 2/21/2008 - 7/7/2008

"On vehicles built after February 21, 2008, the No.2 dynamic chamber stay (bracket) was deleted on all production
vehicles. The absence of the No.2 stay can cause pedal vibration. This procedure details installation of the
No. 2 stay. The No. 2 dynamic chamber stay components required are the stay (1), the top fastener (2) and the
bottom fastener (3)."

Labor is paid at .5 hours, but it seems to me like it would take a lot longer than 30 minutes to do this.

A BIG Thanks to DSC888 for bringing this to my attention!

View attachment 01-039.08.pdf

 

[dsc888]

Helbigtw,

No no...THANK YOU for doing the work and posting your find to the forum.

I just realized that my 2011 falls out of range for the TSB. I am afraid the dealer may reject my claim even though I notice the issue. Does anyone know if you can see the part if you open the hood and look into the engine bay?

Thanks so much.

 

[ceric]

Is this a different problem from the one your posted a couple months ago?

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123809566-How-to-eliminate-1900rpm-rattle

 

[table5511]

Yeah, that post was for a small bracket that has 2 flange nuts which secure the bracket to the firewall, and one of the flange nuts was never installed from the factory, so a Mazda technician posted an M-TIP about it.

This one is for a 7 dollar bracket + 2 bolts that appear to secure the top of the plastic upper intake manifold to somewhere down lower on the engine. I guess it is a standard part on the vehicle but apparently for a few months during production in 2008 this bracket got deleted from the build list. (oops)

 

[ceric]

Mine was built on 12/2007. It should be OK. I will check, though. Thanks.

 

[table5511]

Guys, I studied and studied the diagrams, compared them to my engine bay and figured it out.

Look at the diagram on this post (not in the tsb). The top of the bracket connects right to where the dotted line goes to. You can see it by peering your head down low, looking at the top of the intake manifold.
Ok easy enough. The challenging part is where to connect the bottom of the bracket.

Look at the tsb, the diagram of the rear exhaust heat shield. This is the heat shield under the rear of the intake manifold.
Now, take the diagram and turn it 180 degrees.
Basically its confusing on the tsb because the diagram is upside down.
It was making me think this bracket mounted to the firewall (crazy).
So I realized I needed to take my computer screen and turn it upside down.
BOOM! it all falls into place.

If you look at your computer screen (upside down), put your left hand on the rear heat shield, look at your screen again (upside down) and you will be able to find a bolt hole in the back of the cylinder head where the bottom of this bracket mounts to, perhaps 1/2 to 1 inch fom the edge of the heat shield.

I think I can get the top bolt into the intake manifold by using a standard socket wrench with an extension, using small tightening increments...thats no big deal.

But I think for the bottom bolt in the back of the cylinder head, I will have to move that heat shield a little.

I'm gonna order these parts.
I have no plans to remove the engine cover, intake manny, or air cleaner, or certainly not disconnect the battery.
It seems like technicians are greedy when it comes to space to work. I find that for certain operations, technicians manuals always say to remove a bunch of stuff that is completely unneccessary.

In this case, I can see why they would say to remove the intake manny, but it might be possible to get this bottom bolt in there without having to take all this stuff off, but likely you will need to take out a couple bolts off the heat shield.

I would say that without taking off all these parts there is a HIGH likelyhood of dropping this bottom bolt when attempting to fish it into the hole in the back of the cylinder head.

Would suggest doing this in daylight, outside.

Called the dealer, they quoted 35 bucks for all 3 parts.

they are also available from Jim Ellis Mazda online for about 25 shipped, and World Impex shipped for around 24.

I've ordered from World Impex before, they are a good company, think I'll go that route.


Will keep you all posted.

 

[table5511]

OK so I'm at a body shop that has a CX-9 with this bracket installed.
Here are pictures of what this should look like WITH THE BRACKET INSTALLED: (by the way it was nearly impossible to get these pictures, took like 40 pictures)

 

[ceric]

helbigtw,
you are the best moderator I have seen in years...on any auto forum I visited.
you know most of them go AWOL until people are madly arguing....

And, you did very well on the photography side. No complaint from me.
I will make sure my engine has the bracket.

 

[table5511]

thanks.

 

[Eleanor62]

No no...THANK YOU for doing the work and posting your find to the forum.

 

[qck]

helbigtw,
you are the best moderator I have seen in years...on any auto forum I visited.

Amen to that! Thanks for all your great assistance here, it is very much appreciated.

 

[dsc888]

Amen to that! Thanks for all your great assistance here, it is very much appreciated.

Wow! Talk about getting a "thorough" answer! I definitely appreciate your hard work!

 

[ceric]

Checked. Mine was built in 12/07, and has the bracket installed.

 

[jabba]

Just checked ours, build date of 12/07, GT-AWD (just like Ceric): the bracket is indeed installed. So it might definitely be a 2008-onward issue.

 

[Harriet61]

Thanks so much.

 

[table5511]

Got the parts today in the mail from WorldImpex.
Tried to see if I could fish the lower bolt into the lower hole without removing any bolts or parts. No go.
It seems there is just too little space between the edge of the heat shield and the cylinder head.
The problem is that although I can squeeze my hand between the shield and the head, I can't get the bolt turned to a 90 degree angle and thread it into the hole cuz' my hand is all jammed up in that tight space.

I will try removing 2 heat shield bolts (which is gonna be hard without taking the intake manifold off) and slide the shield back and that should give me enough room to fish that bolt into the hole.

Note: I noticed that the CX-9 I got a picture of that had this bracket installed appears to have a washer between the lower bolt and the bracket. There is no washer listed in the parts order of the TSB.

Another Note: The bracket is steel, the cx-9 motor is all aluminum. Over time, the mating surface will begin to experience galvanic corrosion, just not sure how long that process takes. Not sure what I could put between the bracket and the head as a barrier.
The bracket is painted black...perhaps that is enough of a barrier to last as long as the car will last?
See bottom of this post for an example.

Will update once I have great success. I refuse to take the intake manifold, negative battery cable & air cleaner out just to get this part in....hogwash.

Galvanic corrosion example - steel nuts & bolts on aluminum surface:

 

[jk240sx]

As a barrier, I would use anti-seize compound. A little dab lasts a long time.

 

[table5511]

Mission completed. My left arm looks like I was trying to commit suicide, but other than that, great success.
I had to take out the 2 heat shield bolts and loosen the 3rd, and was able to install this bracket without having to remove the intake or airbox or anything else.
Standing and leaning over the right (passenger) side fender, loosened the nearest heat shield bolt and remove the 2 farther bolts.
The farthest heat shield bolt was less than charming to remove and install, which is the main cause of my arm looking like someone ran over it.
I used a 5/16 inch crescent wrench on the first 2 shield bolts, and had to use a long socket with a small socket wrench for the farthest heat shield bolt, as it is recessed down to far to get at it with the crescent wrench.
After that, there was enough room to get the lower bracket bolt in the hole in the cylinder head. (after applying thread locker)
Used a crescent wrench on the bottom bolt, about 1/4 of a turn at a time, took forever.
Upper bolt I used a long socket, socket extension and small socket wrench and it barely fit against the firewall.
Mission accomplished!

Off to ice the arm. I had to jam my arm between the rear engine hoist bracket and the engine, and there is just not enough room without a good amount of pain.