Notchy Shifts

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2002 P5, 1978 F250
Does it seem fit to say that the major problem with our tranny being notchy especially in the 1-2 shifts is the synchros? The notchyness is worse for me going into 3rd gear now because of a synchro going bad. I understand that the Probe and the 626 shared out tranny, but are we the only ones with the notchiness problem? If enough people reported the notchiness to Mazda couldnt we get a TSB out on this too?

I was reading a thread where Captain KRM P5 mentioned that the 626's that share a tranny with us had stronger synchros. Does anyone know if the Probe or 626 people have the same notchy shifts?
 
Damn...me too, i think...

i have the kartboy short shifter and been having whining sound when i accelerate and decelerate (without stepping on the clutch), and recently i noticed that the shifting is not as smooth and there is a slight "grinding" sound when I shift to ALMOST EVERY GEAR!!!...my car is due for 30k service and i want to let the dealer take a look at it, but i know what they are going to say, "you voided the warranty by gettin a short shifter"...who can help me?...thanks!

Sean
 
If your dealer is expected to be an ass, put the stock shifter back in. I ordered the TWM shifter but I am not putting it in until I get the synchro fixed..


Anyone have a comment on the tranny's being the same or different?
 
i don't mind the notchyness. but, i do have a complaint... MY SHIFTER SQUEEKS...


oh yeah... i got the clunk this week... :(
 
do a tranny fluid dump, this will help alittle, but its still notchy, but i've gone through one tranny, now i'm looking at having to replace it again, and i don't race
 
did you guys use a lot of grease when you installed the shifter? if not regrease the whole ball with some lithium grease. you will also want to regrease the pivot on the bottom( metal sleave and bushings)

we've had our shifter in the P5 for over 50K no probs here :)

Happy Shifting
tom
 
I am still using the stock shifter and mazda tranny fluid.. and the fluid is 3 days old (I just got the clutch chatter fixed). If the RPM's are where they need to be when you shift into the next gear it doesn't hang at all, but if the synchros have to do any work then it gets notchy. Thats why I am questioning the synchros. I will definatly try synthetic fluid after I get the synchro fixed though.
 
Redline mt-90 helps a little. mine 1-2 has always been notchy. it seems a lil worse since boosted, there is to much torque in 1st gear.
 
Re: Damn...me too, i think...

Protege5Lava said:
i have the kartboy short shifter and been having whining sound when i accelerate and decelerate (without stepping on the clutch), and recently i noticed that the shifting is not as smooth and there is a slight "grinding" sound when I shift to ALMOST EVERY GEAR!!!...my car is due for 30k service and i want to let the dealer take a look at it, but i know what they are going to say, "you voided the warranty by gettin a short shifter"...who can help me?...thanks!

Sean

check the FAQ, there is already a TSB about gear noise...It is completely normal and does not hurt the box's performance in any way...Most rod linkage'd FWD gearboxes make the noise, plus the shifter vibration...and the amplitude of the noise changes with condition of the gear oil...

The notchiness is a culprit of the entire internal layout of the G-15M-R, combined with the very soft engine/trans mounts...It is simply a notchy tight transaxle...New OE syncro's will not fix it unless something is abnormally bad...

Probe's/MX-6's/626's all had just as much if not more notchiness than us...My 93 Probe GT, with a stock shifter, was extremely tight from first to second...and a friend from work had a 40,000 mile 97 626 2.0L 5 speed, and hers was worse than both the Probe and P5...I didn't mind it, is was just difficult to hurry from first to second...

Also what are you guys comparing the notchiness to? I only notice a hint of notchiness when rowing through the gears in hurry...the rest of the time, when shifting slow, it doesn't complain in the slightest. I would say that we have it pretty good compared to Sentra's and a few other compacts...We have a direct rod linkage, which makes the shifts tighter and more predictable engagement wise...and they have a silly cable system that just binds up and "pops" into gear...it feels like s***...Jetta's have a very complicated balanced rod setup that isn't quite as notchy, but feels numb and unresponsive...

The best FWD car I ever drove shift wise was a RSX-Type S...and my second favorite is the P5, minus the stock shifter throw length...Both have very good feed back on engagement...the Type-S has I think triple cone syncros from first to second, and we have the more common double...so the Type-s is much less notchy from first to second, but similar to the P5 in every other gear...Honestly ours could be a lot worse...
 
install shield, is there any way we could do something like the type s has to our trannys?
 
theoretically yes, but the price would be unreal...and also that is not the only way to do it...

If you start to mess with internals, there are a number of ways to make it smoother...but smoothness will be directly related to shift speed...An example: that Type S's first to second syncros are very grabby, making a slow shift from first to second very clunky...but when you hurry it, it snicks right in perfectly...So unless you slam it from first to second it doesn't feel great and smooth...ours feels better being slowly slipped into to second, and if we swapped out syncros for grabbier ones of a different material, it would be more difficult to shift slow and smooth, but better for shifting quickly...I know this is hard to understand...

This should compare it better...There are basically two types of manual transmissions/transaxles that differ only internally...Constant mesh (motorcyle manual gearboxes) and syncromesh (almost every modern production car gearbox)...Fundamentally constant mesh systems do not have syncros, and for the scope of this post I will leave it at that...Constant mesh setups allow shift speed on the verge of insanity, and clutch work is not even needed in some situations...during full throttle you simply ease on the gas to relieve acceleration stress, and slam on the shifter like you have pair...simple as that...Think of modern super bikes, and those crazy dudes popping through gears that seem like a sequential manual pipe dream...A lot of companies make gear sets to turn a stock gearbox into a constant mesh one, but not yet for protege's...Sentra and WRX's to name a few have this option, but they are generally regarded as racing setups only mostly becuase of how taxing they are for daily street driving...simply put, constant mesh systems have to be handled by a man...you cannot shift slowly without craking the hole thing apart...Same thing with a motorcyle...have you ever tried to slowly lift your left foot to shift? The hole thing bucks and pops and sounds like crap, but if you pull your foot up with authority everything works great...That is what you have to do with a constant mesh car...You would HAVE to have an extremely short throw shifter (not like our current aftermarket shifters, but one with about an inch or so of throw from first to second!), and only use the cluth for smoothness...every shift would have to be hellishly fast regardless of whether you are racing or getting groceries...You can slip the clutch for driving smoothness, but the actual movement of the shifter will always have to be crazy fast...

Now I realize that has nothing to do with what you asked, but sort of apply that to a syncro mesh car...Bigger grabbier syncros with more surface area will kind of behave the same way...you will gain high speed shifting smoothness, but loose lazy around town shifting smoothness...if you try to shift it smoothly the it is similar to a very grabby clutch...it will grind and bang a bit...

And also no internal mods can be found for our boxes yet other than LSD's...so I guess we are stuck for a while with the current setup...unless you can part with the 5-10 grand it would take for custom gears, shafts, bearings, pins, syncros, casing etc. to make a custom setup...
 
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