No power until 5500rpm?

Zoom zoom boom today.... Transmission this time. 3rd gear took a s***. Funny considering it took 14 psi like a champ, and fails during 6 psi just driving around town. I dont know for sure when it happened. at first i thought something was vibrating under the hood. After inspecting everything I thought it was, it got louder and I knew for sure what it was. Had a low mileage transmission in my parents garage, now in the trunk of my car waiting for a day this week. Drove it home ~100 kms on the highway without a problem. Then around town after dinner. Drives smooth as ever, just noisy. FML. On a side note, I have been hearing a little noise from the transmission for a while and was expecting this to be honest. A buddy of mine was in my car and mentioned the unusually loud transmission whine about 6 weeks ago. I always passed it off as the motor mounts until today. There was a fair bit of gear whine, and a little rattling sound. Now the gear whine is super loud, and third gear sounds like a bad time haha. Perhaps the noise from the transmission was causing the false knock?
 
I just tapped in to the wires of the sensor itself, and ran wires through the firewall. Its sketchy, and NOT a permanent solution, but it does work well. I don't know if the transmission could effect the knock sensor or not, but the noise my transmission makes now is around the same kind sound as knock, and its all bolted together. Who knows. It'll be next week before I get the other transmission in.
 
could you please explain in more detail what wires (colors or pics would help) were tapped into and such.
 
hey 95blkprobe... there comes a time that you should not be trying to splice wires to "fool" your ECU if you can not even figure out which wires to be cutting... Don't just cut and hack your car wiring because you read it on a forum! get/find a manual for the car and you will learn very easily.
 
hey 95blkprobe... there comes a time that you should not be trying to splice wires to "fool" your ECU if you can not even figure out which wires to be cutting... Don't just cut and hack your car wiring because you read it on a forum! get/find a manual for the car and you will learn very easily.


I am perfectly competent to work on my own car and "hack" and "fool" whatever I would like. I was asking the OP which pins he used so I didn't have to power up my old computer and find the manual. Thanks for your input though. :thumbsup:
 
Its still happening, I am going to check my crank position sensor and clean it off, maybe its dirty. On a side note, the "new" transmission is perfect. smoother and more quiet than ever. Took 1:40 to change the transmission from when I hauled the car in to when I pulled it out of the garage. The most amount of time on a single task was squirting in the syncromesh in to the transmission. Syncromesh is the awesome by the way, I recommend it. You will notice a difference in shifts right away.
 
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There is no way to be a little bit off on timing. Just one tooth on either cam royally screws it up and it is very noticeable.
 
It could be some s*** on the sensors enough to screw with readings of the crank or cam position sensors, but I don't think that would cause advance to go to 0, not without throwing codes or having other effects.
 
got my msp up and running again today, with a change of knock sensor (*and new LSD*). Does not appear to make any difference either....
 
Did you consider that your cat converter could be so full of crap that it will not let Ex out?
 
I read part of the manual that described the control system, and what inputs affected certain outputs:

Reading from the manual, the Inputs that control the electronic spark advance (ESA) control : Brake switch, Refrigerant pressure switch, AC switch, blower fan switch, and AC amplifier, PSP switch [power steering?] , DLC in engine compartment(TEN), neutral switch (MTX), clutch switch (MTX), TR switch (ATX), CKP switch [I think is crank sensor], CMP sensor [i think is cam sensor], VSS, MAF sensor, ECT sensor, IAT sensor, TP sensor, Battery positive voltage, and generator.

These are just the list of things that effect (affect?) the ignition advance, I would speculate that these are for just the FS and that the FS with TC would also be effected by boost sensor?

I will be methodically checking each one of these systems.. maybe this will help someone too? I will update if I find anything.
 
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