http://www.akzonobel.com/aac/
http://www.akzonobel.com/aac/aboutus/
"Sikkens Acoat selected
Sikkens Acoat selected is a global partner program for the highest quality bodyshops. Sikkens Acoat selected is the only established, international network of like-minded, forward-thinking body shops that work both independently and as a national and international network for work providers."
"Sikkens Autocoat BT is a truly global brand for the commercial vehicles refinishes, OEM and builders market"
There are alot of brands of automotive refinish.
The ones that I commonly see in body shops for the most part are:
1) PPG (this is the most commonly seen, about 10 different brands ranging in quality. A majority will use the cheapest option)
2) DuPont (Standox, Spies Hecker, Hot Hues, Imron) (Standox is another commonly used paint)
3) Sherwin Williams (good for painting barns, which some small tight budget shops will use their automotive paint)
4) AkzoNobel (European, considered the top of the line, aerospace & automotive, several brands, including Sikkens)
Keep in mind, there are some shops that buy the high end PPG or the high end Dupont (Imron), but a majority buy the standard el-cheap-o PPG Value brand.
Also to keep in mind is that alot of the refinish process relies on the preparation of the panels to be painted, how thorough the preppers are with car. With that said, if everything is done right, my stance is that Sikkens color will last longer, and be less prone to oxidation/fade or even paint not adhering to the primer. I have seen alot of cars where the paint falls right off the primer within a couple years of the repair, and while some of this is poor prepping or poor primer, some is also due to budget refinish. Also make sure the shop does not take shortcuts. Shortcuts are "taping off" adjacent parts, or painting a bumper on the car rather than painting the bumper off the car. All plastic parts should be painted off the car. If you are replacing the fender, you have to blend the door, and take all the trim off the door, the mirror, belt moulding, the side moulding (if applicable), the handle must come off, etc.
Alot of shops tape parts off and spray around them, leaving a sharp clearcoat edge that will begin to peel away over the years. In the case of say painting or clearing a door for instance, it is very important to take off the handle to spray the clear around the opening for the handle and the clear will go around the panel edges for the handle opening, that way the handle sits over the top of the clear, vs taping the handle off. Believe it or not, many large scale nice looking boy shops will paint fenders and tape off the bumper, tape off the headlight, etc. This is not cool.
This is just my opinion based on my expertise and input of many body shops and shop owners over the years. Good luck!
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