Newly installed clutch slipping??
- Thread starter CustomMSP
- Start date
Check for a lock nut behind the plate that attaches to the clutch pedal. The nut locks a rod in place that goes through the firewall to the slave cylinder. You can turn this rod to either lower or raise the clutch pedal. You'll want to readjust the clutch pedal stop Bolt that's on the front side of the clutch pedal for freeplay from the top of the stroke. Once you get underneat the steering wheel and dash, look for the clutch pedal/adjusting nuts/bolts. The freeplay bolt also has a lock nut, so you'll want to loosen that first. The nuts are 12mm, and you can rotate the adjuster Rod by hand.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
Technically its goes through the firewall to the clutch master cylinder...the slave cylinder is what is farther down the line...that activates the clutch release fork, which is all on the front of the gearbox...
Just trying to explain it a little more...great post though, a lot of guys ask about that...
Just trying to explain it a little more...great post though, a lot of guys ask about that...
I had a Spec clutch installed as well. I must say, I used to love my car. But now with this clutch installed, my car is the biggest POS! I have heard of others having the same problem. My car shakes so violently, these are starting to come loose from shaking. I HATE MY CAR NOW!!!
IMO, Spec clutches are crap. I dont care if you flame me, Spec clutches suck ass! I would advise anyone thinking of getting one to just buy the factory one, or something else. My car drove SOOO much better with a failing factory clutch. If you want a car that emits horrid smells, shutters like crazy, more violenly that the worst wheel hop you have experienced, not to mention the fact that you have to let the clutch out almost all the way out before anything happens, then get a Spec. Otherwise I would say the hell away from them.
Sorry Spec. No good in my book. (yupnope)
IMO, Spec clutches are crap. I dont care if you flame me, Spec clutches suck ass! I would advise anyone thinking of getting one to just buy the factory one, or something else. My car drove SOOO much better with a failing factory clutch. If you want a car that emits horrid smells, shutters like crazy, more violenly that the worst wheel hop you have experienced, not to mention the fact that you have to let the clutch out almost all the way out before anything happens, then get a Spec. Otherwise I would say the hell away from them.
Sorry Spec. No good in my book. (yupnope)
Sorry to hear that bro...but Spec is willing to fix my clutch for little or no fee if I send them the flywheel and the clutch. What they do is replace anything that could be the cause of the problem. They need the flywheel there to inspect it and make sure that it will not contribute to the problem in the future.
Give them a call at 800 828 4379 x 106 for Dan
Give them a call at 800 828 4379 x 106 for Dan
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- 2001 Mazda MP3
This weekend a problem presented itself to me as well. Stage 3 hybrid massively slipping at 200whp. (should hold 400)
I just got my brand new SPEC 3 clutch and Indigo flywheel back from the machine shop where they mounted and balanced both of them. BOTH needed drilling to bring them neutral! No wonder your clutches are deteriorating, you can't just slap in a new part and expect it to perform flawlessly (wishful thinking). From the machine shop, I stopped over to NAPA to have them surface the flywheel, that's the second part of the equation.
In conclusion, it cost me $44 to balance both the pressure plate and the flywheel and another $30 to machine the flywheel surface--all of it NEEDS to be done on new parts. When I get it all together, I will have no one but the manufacturer to blame if something happens.
I'll take some pictures of the work once I can locate a camera.
In conclusion, it cost me $44 to balance both the pressure plate and the flywheel and another $30 to machine the flywheel surface--all of it NEEDS to be done on new parts. When I get it all together, I will have no one but the manufacturer to blame if something happens.
I'll take some pictures of the work once I can locate a camera.
In the first pic you can see where the pressure plate was drilled for balancing. The flywheel received similar treatment but I don't have it right now, it's getting resurfaced. In the second pic, you can see an index mark that I have to line up with the flywheel so that together they are balanced. Did you guys have any of this done prior to your install?
Attachments
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- 2001 Mazda MP3
spec doesnt say anything about balancing the clutch before installing it........ just that the FW need be machined..... i would EXPECT that spec would make a clutch balanced enough.... 
pdhaudio83 said:spec doesnt say anything about balancing the clutch before installing it........ just that the FW need be machined..... i would EXPECT that spec would make a clutch balanced enough....
SPEC can balance the clutch all you want but as soon as you mate it to a flywheel......(boom08)
I suppose if you bought a SPEC clutch and flywheel package that they could take care of you. Now you know why they need the clutch and flywheel to determine the problem.
This is why my parts are now indexed. If I mate them any other way it would be off balance.
Well, I can speculate...CustomMSP said:
Unbalanced: wobble at certain rpm-similar to a wheel/tire. This can cause stress on all the parts of the rotating assembly and shorten the life of all the comonents. The wobble may be disguised (not fixed) by the engine noise and/or mounts.
Bad mating surface: premature wear on plates and clutch. Slipping. Can cause hopping which is also bad for drivetrain.
You can have various degrees and combinations of the above. Some may be lucky.
CustomMSP said:
That humming you hear (kind of a wobbly hum?) is probably your throw out bearing. My Spec does the same thing, and I've talked to various people with different cars that have the same noise with their Spec setups.
All these replies and I didn't know about them until now.
I really don't know what I want to do. I don't want to pay somebody $$ to take the tranny out, because I got a defective clutch. I don't really want to do it myself either. As of right now spec will not pay for labor of clutch removal it's only a 120day warranty.
I've been told that the throwout bearing is the source of the noise
I really don't know what I want to do. I don't want to pay somebody $$ to take the tranny out, because I got a defective clutch. I don't really want to do it myself either. As of right now spec will not pay for labor of clutch removal it's only a 120day warranty.
I've been told that the throwout bearing is the source of the noise
