New to Tuning

Don't assume the drop in fuel pressure has anything to do with how much gas was in your tank...the fuel pump on this car is known to be weak even on a completely stock car. I would invest in some upgraded fuel pump internals...for $280 it's a good buy if it saves your engine in the long run.
 
fuel pressure for the loss. im fairly deep in modding and id have to say i wish i bought the fp or internals sooner. im not strapped for cash and cant get them so im forced to either deal with the sputters and occasional fp drops or drive it easier than i wish i had to. sometimes she runs like a champ. its all in the fp. power to a new fp!
 
Holy crap those are great numbers. I think those #'s would definitely dispel the thought that the AP is not worth the money. First off, where did you get it tuned? I see you're in New York, I live in west jersey, I would definitely make the drive for those kind of gains. And second, Why a custom tune with the no offense, small amount of mods? Why not just use the AP maps? Just wondering, because after seeing this post the AP is definitely now my first priority. Congrats
 
The off the shelf ap maps will net that type of power. They are very aggressive already. I have been tuning mine with the ap and there was not much power left on the table.
 
The off the shelf ap maps will net that type of power. They are very aggressive already. I have been tuning mine with the ap and there was not much power left on the table.

Wow I feel like a giddy little school girl that just got asked the spring sock hop. Can't wait to get an AP.
 
Ok first off. Don't listen to the people saying your FP is bad. Your pressure is just fine and well within specs of Cobbs requirements. The lowest pressure you had was 1400+ and that is FINE. You don't even notice sputter until you hit like 1100PSI at WOT. Bad FP is when you are WOT and it drops below 1000PSI. Cobb recommends looking at getting internal or another upgraded pump if you dip below 1400 which you don't.

Now for your tune. First off, your tuner didn't even touch your MAF calibration it seems. Your LTFT readings outside of WOT are bad. 17+ at idle, 6.0 during half of your WOT run dropping down to -0.16 (which is fine).

Your LTFT's should be as close to zero as possible. 6 at WOT is acceptable (+/- 8 is OK according to Cobb) but I would still want to see it closer to zero myself.

AFR's look fine as does your boost, but I would be a bit concerned of holding 19psi at 6100RPM's when your WG is trying it's best to stop the boost but seems to not be able too.

Overall not bad I guess, but looks like your tuner just upped your boost to me and didn't really TUNE the car per say.
 
dude read my post. i didnt say anything about his fp. i gave him my scenario. i know most of your data is correct and you do know what your talking about but whenever someone says fuel pump you wig out. haha. plus....and i quote...
had a big drop in fuel pressure (700psi) at wot

He HAD a problme with his fuel pressure.

at WOT in 4th mine dips below 1400 and sometimes on a bad day itll do the proverbial shitting of the bed also. (700 psi)
 
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dude read my post. i didnt say anything about his fp. i gave him my scenario. i know most of your data is correct and you do know what your talking about but whenever someone says fuel pump you wig out. haha. plus....and i quote...

He HAD a problme with his fuel pressure.

at WOT in 4th mine dips below 1400 and sometimes on a bad day itll do the proverbial shitting of the bed also. (700 psi)

Sorry but was responding to the other guys post not yours per say. However, I will admit I do wig out to the FP stuff. I just hate seeing people on the forums spend unnecessary cash when it could be better spent somewhere else.

I probably need to control that better :)

I would suggest them in your case though. I had to get 3 sets of internals before I got a good set, but they hold great now that I got one. Not sure if I was just jinxed on that or not but glad I got a good set finally.
 
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Here are the problems with this tune.
1 your idle fuel trims are off, and you may trip a cel if they go off by 3 more percent.

You can see your fuel trims drop to 0 above 5100 rpms, this happens to everyone. At this time your a/f spikes goes leaner because the ecu was previously adding 6%. That said your a/f is still fine.

Your wastegate is close to being maxed as it hits 95%. This means you are going beyond the efficiency of the turbo. You should not be holding that much boost without exhaust mods.

Your tune is overly aggressive and your fuel pump is dipping when you are holding 20 psi. It isn't bad in the warm weather but when it gets colder your fuel pressure is going to be worse.

On the plus side.
Your a/f ratio looks good and your knock isn't bad.

This is just a 4th gear run so you need to check at least gears 2 and 3 as well. The ecu allows gear specific tuning, so your tune may be better or worse in the other gears.

Overall the tune isn't horrible, but I could do a better job of it myself. It is definately not optimized for your car and like others have said, it looks like all the guy did was up your boost, which is done by upping the requested load. Tuners are like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get.
 
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Sorry but was responding to the other guys post not yours per say. However, I will admit I do wig out to the FP stuff. I just hate seeing people on the forums spend unnecessary cash when it could be better spent somewhere else.

I probably need to control that better :)

I would suggest them in your case though. I had to get 3 sets of internals before I got a good set, but they hold great now that I got one. Not sure if I was just jinxed on that or not but glad I got a good set finally.

lol. ahhhh gotchya. so what was wrong with the fp's you got? did they have revisions of previous or did yours just not work? i plan on getting some but cant afford three times without a vehicle for weeks at a time.
 
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