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Loggie

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2008 mazdaspeed3
Hi. New to the forum, I've got a 2008 MS3 w/ 18k miles. Currently stock. getting Cobb AP and turbo back w/pro Stg2 tune. I will post how it goes and who done it....(laugh)
I'd sure appreciate to hear from anyone with experience and suggestions for what I should do next.
Cheers!(drinks)
 
since you're freeing up the restrictions downwind from the turbo, you should free things up on the suck side; absolutely get rid of the factory air box and get a good SRI/CAI. May as well get a new turbo inlet pipe while you doing the intake too. Then you'll have significantly reduced airflow restrictions present in the stock set up.

good luck and enjoy.
 
^Agreed 100 percent.

You will want a new BOV and motor mount also.

Our car has a "BPV" By pass valve. I guess some have a problem with their stock "By pass valves" leaking. My stocker doesn't leak so I see no reason to spend money on one untill my stocker craps out.
 
I was just using BOV as a general term... my stock BPV was just pissing boost everywhere so I upgraded to the Forge BPV, much better.
 
Thanks for the input!
I was thinking that i may get K & N "typhoon". Anyone have any exp. w/that ? and/or can anyone suggest a good SRI?
Also, why the motor mount?
 
Thanks for the input!
I was thinking that i may get K & N "typhoon". Anyone have any exp. w/that ? and/or can anyone suggest a good SRI?
Also, why the motor mount?

A lot of people have gone with the Cobb SRI because it works with the Cobb AP maps. I also went that route and love it. The K&N seems overpriced and does not have an air straightener to my knowledge.

The motor mount helps eliminate drivetrain lash which helps with two things. Less wheel hop on launches which means more traction and, shifting 1st to 2nd in almost all conditions is improved.

For early mods I suggest shifter base bushings, motormount(s), dashawk or some type of monitoring device, and a intake of some sorts.
 
A lot of people have gone with the Cobb SRI because it works with the Cobb AP maps. I also went that route and love it. The K&N seems overpriced and does not have an air straightener to my knowledge.

The motor mount helps eliminate drivetrain lash which helps with two things. Less wheel hop on launches which means more traction and, shifting 1st to 2nd in almost all conditions is improved.

For early mods I suggest shifter base bushings, motormount(s), dashawk or some type of monitoring device, and a intake of some sorts.

+1

mounts, shifter bushings and dashhawk are a must for these cars. as for sri, protegegarage.com has their in house one with their turbo inlet pipe for a price that can not be beat!
 
How does one know if it's leaking with out a DH or boost gauge?

The long and short of it... I dynoed 235 whp with the stocker and someone on the same day within 20 minutes and with identical mods (except he had the forge) dynoed around 247. Even if I'm dillusional, I'm very happy with the forge. And how did you know I have no way of measuring boost?
 
The long and short of it... I dynoed 235 whp with the stocker and someone on the same day within 20 minutes and with identical mods (except he had the forge) dynoed around 247. Even if I'm dillusional, I'm very happy with the forge. And how did you know I have no way of measuring boost?

Nice. Would you happen to have a scan of the dyno plot?
 
Nice. Would you happen to have a scan of the dyno plot?

Yeah...
You mean this:

scan0003.jpg
 
there is a test you can do. involving a pen or something. ill try and find it. hopefully tunersteve will wonder in here and help out

That test won't necessarily tell you anything useful. It will tell you if the diaphragm has failed but that isn't the only cause for a "leaky" valve.
 
ahhh thank you patty!

just buy the forge. its super cheap.


patty do u guys have the non ping ones out yet?
 
first, welcome to the forums!

I dynoed 235 whp with the stocker and someone on the same day within 20 minutes and with identical mods (except he had the forge) dynoed around 247. Even if I'm dillusional, I'm very happy with the forge. And how did you know I have no way of measuring boost?

i dyno'd the same day with the PG BPV and the PG SRI and made 240whp with low boost levels, 10-12psi due to a vacuum leak and a bad stock TIP. So with that being said, I would suggested replacing you stock TIP also, which is what I did after I dyno'd and I'm hitting 14-15psi (no more leaks!).

then again, every car is a little different ...
 
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