New to CX-9 but not Mazdas...

The ManLaw

The Manlaw of Want
:
15cx5 soon 20cx9
So, I've been on this forum for years leading back to my old 03 p5 and then to my 15 cx-5. It had 122500 miles and some trans fluttering issues so the wife talked me out of a new cx5 into a cx9. 2020 touring preferred package blue with black that I'm picking up Wednesday (08-19-2020).

Questions, I'm mostly informed about the mechanicals of the 2.5t and awd system but, I never did a drain and fill on the trans on the '15 hence the fluttering issues. Should I be doing that on a regular basis with it having a bit more power?

Also, looking at the idatastart remote start through crutchfield. Anyone know the getting in and driving steps? My wife's crv, you have to press the brake pedal and push the start/stop button to fully turn on the car (Yes I searched and only found info about the delay shutoff once the door is opened).

Finally, are there any fun things with the infotainment system I should know about before picking it up?

Thanks to whoever actually reads this and/or responds.
 
Mazda says that their Skyactiv vehicles have lifetime transmission fluid that does not need to be replaced regularly.

I'm not a Mazda engineer, but as a mechanical engineer I can confidently tell you that no automotive oil, synthetic or otherwise, won't degrade after thousands of use cycles, so I call BS on that lifetime claim. BUT I do trust Mazda and believe that you won't have to worry about that for several years. Perhaps "lifetime" means the 5-6 years they expect their owners to keep them for (or until you are out of their warranty period).

My advice is to just follow the maintenance schedule given by Mazda. I don't advocate not listening to them, but if you're going to keep it long term, new fluid every 2 years is way cheaper than a new transmission at 120k. My 2 cents.

On my MDX, Acura calls for transmission fluid & differential fluid change every 30,000 miles. Perhaps the $100 worth of tranny fluid every change is the reason why the cost-to-own is higher for the Acura, but the car should still be shifting fine at 200,000 miles.

Cannot speak to idatastart. Generally speaking, the aftermarket products don't mesh well with the OEM systems. If the system is clunky to use, maybe it's not worth the convenience of remote start, but that's subjective to the value you find from the system.
 
Mazda says that their Skyactiv vehicles have lifetime transmission fluid that does not need to be replaced regularly.

My advice is to just follow the maintenance schedule given by Mazda. I don't advocate not listening to them, but if you're going to keep it long term, new fluid every 2 years is way cheaper than a new transmission at 120k. My 2 cents.
Well I purchased it this morning and got the extended warranty package since I plan on keeping it long term. I'll go ahead and order up some trans and diff fluid and keep them drained & filled at regular intervals.

Also I'll let everyone know how the idatastart goes when I install it.
 
Late answer, but for remote starters, it seems like the easiest install is with the Fortin Evo One. Others have installed compustars as well with some success (some have the engine shutting off when you open the doors with it, some don't).

Lots of info on remote starters on these thread here:
 
Also, looking at the idatastart remote start through crutchfield. Anyone know the getting in and driving steps? My wife's crv, you have to press the brake pedal and push the start/stop button to fully turn on the car (Yes I searched and only found info about the delay shutoff once the door is opened).

I should add, with the Fortin remote starter the process is as follow: to fully start the car after remotely starting it, you get in and press the push start button. If you touch the brake the car shuts off. Some remote starters shut the engine off when you open the door and require you to do a full restart after getting in, which would be annoying in my opinion. I don't know how the idatastart operates.
 
Late answer,

but for remote starters, it seems like the easiest install is with the Fortin Evo One. Others have installed compustars as well with some success (some have the engine shutting off when you open the doors with it, some don't).

Lots of info on remote starters on these thread here:

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/ind...-fortin-remote-car-starter-success.123863977/
I should add, with the Fortin remote starter the process is as follow: to fully start the car after remotely starting it, you get in and press the push start button. If you touch the brake the car shuts off. Some remote starters shut the engine off when you open the door and require you to do a full restart after getting in, which would be annoying in my opinion. I don't know how the idatastart operates.

I read that thread about the fortin and looked at their website and just couldn't pull the trigger on that one vs the idatastart. The instructions suck with the idatastart but the harness is truly plug and play. I set up the harness the other day for fun and it took me all off 3 minutes including gently prying the steering column plastic apart. My only gripe is I have to plug the module into my laptop. My laptop that hasn't been turned on in about 3 years, no sarcasm. lol
 
I thought the fortin was pretty much plug and play as well but glad to see the idatastart was just as easy to install. Let us know how it turns out.
 
My thought is that lifetime in the auto world is 100,000 miles. There are some lubes that are so lightly loaded that they never need changing. Crankcase oil in a very large diesel engine is in there for the life of the ship, 20 years or more. It is a 30 wt that is continually centrifuged and new oil added to make up for leaks. Here is one example:
https://documentcloud.adobe.com/lin...:scds:US:a601ad97-2793-4fad-b336-7dca3d02b624

Just to be clear, this isn't what you think. The last one I worked on had 30 tons of oil in the sump. The crankcase is sealed from the combustion spaces, so there is no blowby. http://marinediesels.info/Basics/the_2_stroke_crosshead_engine_explanation.htm
On that large main propulsion diesel engine 50 wt very alkaline oil was pumped directly into the cylinder walls to protect the piston and liner. This oil goes to waste...on the 12 cylinder engine we consumed about a ton a day of this. The locomotive-size generator engines were conventional trunk piston design, used a 40 wt crankcase oil that was continually centrifuged and lab tested every 60 days. And used high sulfur heavy fuel oil. That oil was in service for multiple years before the lab said to change it.

Some hydraulic oil systems are also lifetime fill.

All that said, a 50,000 mile drain & refill on the transmission seems like a good plan on my CX-9.
 
All that said, a 50,000 mile drain & refill on the transmission seems like a good plan on my CX-9.
Yeah that's kinda what I've concluded, 40-50k miles. 100k now just seems like it's cutting it too close and could lead to failure. I want this thing to last dangit!
 
SO, the idatastart was a bust. Easy as hell to hook up and get programmed but the issue came when I would remote start it. The key fob and exterior door unlock button wouldn't work after it was remote started. I called the company and they said it was their issue and gave me no resolution but to call Crutchfield. Thank God I ordered it through crutchfield cause the guy I spoke with went ahead and put a note in their system about the issue and ordered me a new Fortin system. I had to separately order the t harness on Amazon but hey, he said if that doesn't work then we will go from there. So in a week or so, I'll let yall know how the fortin evo all install goes
 
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