NEW: The $500 Audio Challenge!!!!!

The Alpine MRP-F250 will not work. It only puts out 2x40w + 1x100w in bridged mode and the RF subs are rated for 150w RMS. You would only be giving each one 50w. That isn't enough.

Another option with the MRP-F250 is to bridge both front and rear channels for 2x100w. You would still be underpowering them though...and the Infinity speakers aren't going to sound too hot powered by the 10w stock stereo amplifier.

The Audiobahn amp will put out 2x75w + 1x300w which is much better suited for the RF subs and Infinity speakers. That is why I included it in my suggestion. I would love to include an equivalent Alpine amp in my suggestion but the fact is, an alpine amp that could power this combo would bust the $500 budget.

Also, make sure you select the right RF package. There are two different models, an 8 ohm version and a 4 ohm version. You want two 8 ohm subs to create a 4 ohm load across the bridged channels of the Audiobahn amp. You would want two 4 ohm subs if you were to power them off the MRP-F250 with both front and rear channels bridged.

Anyway, what I'm getting at...and this is a good example to prove the usefulness of this thread...is that there is a science to choosing the right audio gear especially when you have a budget to worry about. You need to allocate the right funding for each component and they all have to work together.

You can't simply connect any subwoofer to any amp and expect it to sound great. I'm sure a $300 subwoofer will sound fine hooked up to a $200 amp but I can almost guarantee that a $175 subwoofer will sound better hooked up to a $325 amp.
 
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i like your set up, but just dont like the fact that it doesnt have a speaker-level input. i rather have an amp with the speaker-level input so that i wouldnt have to mess around with too many wires.
 
nvm my last post...you know best, i'll just buy all that and take it in and have it customed fit into my trunk.

~ Thanks
 
Well, as mentioned earlier, if you install the LOC now and run RCA wires that is one less thing you have to do later when/if you decide to upgrade your head unit.

Also, if you want 10's RF rates both the 10 and the 8 at 150w RMS. The 10's will sound a little deeper but cost a little more. It's your money and if you have the extra cash then go for it.

Here are some additional 4-channel amps that would work instead of the Audiobahn...(but will bring you over the $500 budget)
[font=Arial,Helvetica]http://www.cardomain.com/item/ROCP4004[/font]
Infinity [font=Arial,Helvetica]Reference 7541a[/font][font=Arial,Helvetica]
Kenwood
[/font][font=Arial,Helvetica]KAC-8452[/font]
[font=Arial,Helvetica]Clarion [/font][font=Arial,Helvetica][url="http://www.cardomain.com/item/CLAAPA450"]APA450[/font][/url]

I recommend the Infinity over the others.
 
chuyler1 said:
Nice. I just bookmarked them (although I got a better deal by just calling a store in NJ since there isn't a retailer in New England).


i've got a few sources for better DLS prices, but that was the only website and confirmable price for everyone(thumb) i've talked to one dealer that was actually charging full MSRP(boom07) many will sell at MAP or around it. i'm debating on buying some DLS home theater stuff....
 
Mostly stuff "on sale" at Sound Domain, but there was no prohibition on that in the rules.

My thinking was to find decent quality stuff, but find it on the cheap. I guess that was the stated goal of this thread though... :p Mostly I just went looking for stuff I wouldn't mind in my car. I haven't heard the ID10, or the JBL amp, but I was going on rep and price for those.

JBL CS60.4 60x4 amp $149.95 w/free shipping (it has high-level inputs)

Infinity Reference 6812cf 6x8 coax $79.95 w/free shipping

Image Dynamics ID10 v.3 D2 10" sub $120.95 w/free shipping

Q-logic .7 cu. ft. box $49.99 + $6 shipping

Stinger 8 awg wiring kit $23.95

14 awg speaker wire (50 ft., but might take more...) $17.50

Dynamat Xtreme door kit $24.95

Total from Sound Domain: $417.25 + $6 shipping
Total from Crutchfield: $49.99 +$6 shipping

Grand Total: $479.24 to your door
 
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I can't sacrifice space in my P5 for a new audio setup, so I would like to reuse the spare-tire sub location, or find a spot that isn't in the way, somehow. I don't listen to rap, but clean-sounding bass would be nice when doing new speakers/etc/etc. Can someone post a setup that doesn't use a box (include anything else that would be part of the system, too.)

Thanks,
James
 
I think you should start with my first recommendation (the basic SQ upgrade). You'll be surprised at how well a set of component speakers can sound when sent power from an external amplifier. The amp can be installed under the front seat.

Once you get that hooked up you can consider adding a 6" or 8" subwoofer and another amp. By using fiberglass, you can kiddie-corner a sub into the hatch or possibly create a new enclosure to replace the factory one.
 
I'm just curious if people are putting these systems into their cars without changing any stocks electrial parts on the car (i.e. battery and/or alternator). I can already see the lights on my car get slightly dimmer when the cars on idle and i have the a/c running-not dangerously low, but I can see the car working visibly harder. I'm just curious if you're drawing extra current out of the car from a system, if it'll definitely need an upgraded battery or alterator.

I personally think if the car can't run on the stock battery or alternator with the $500.00 system, then buying an aftermarket battery should be included in the cost. Otherwise, I think there should be some kind of disclaimer in the rules that an aftermarket battery might be necessary.

I'm not making this comment to be anal, but I just think that some of the younger guys out there doing any type of audio for the first time should be aware that there could easier be additional costs to the $500.00. Afterall, the challenge is building a cheap, usable sytem.
 
I have been running significantly more gear off my factory battery and alternator. I have not upgraded any of the wiring except for the 6" ground wire from the fram to the negative battery terminal and I put gold plated terminals on the pos and neg posts. I have put on 50K miles since I installed my gear and my stock battery is now 3.5 years old. It works fine.

Do I crank rap music all day long? No. Do I listen to rock music at full volume for 30 minutes at a time? Yes. Do my lights dim? Ocassionally I notice it but they aren't dimming to the point where other drivers would notice or I can't see the road.

The lights on the Protege, and many cars for that matter, will flicker when the radiator fan turns on or the a/c compressor kicks in. Its the nature of the beast. The regulator on the alternator is always one step behind and diming lights will occur no matter how much power you are running on your aftermarket stereo. Get used to it.
 
chuyler1 said:
Basic upgrade: $499.97
Head unit + 2 pairs of speakers.

You are looking to improve all aspects of your system. You want mp3/wma playback, decent bass, cleaner highs, and louder overall listening levels.

Alpine CDA-9856 CD/MP3/WMA Receiver $199,99
The CDA-9856 is a great starting point for a system at a great price. You get an internal 4x18w amplifier, CDRW/MP3/WMA playback, 3 sets of pre-outs for future amplifier upgrades, and an AiNet connection for future changer, ipod-control, sat-radio, or hd-radio upgrades.

Alpine Type-R SPR-57LP 5" x 7" 2-way Car Speakers $149.99
These speakers are an easy drop-in to Mazda3s and Proteges with 5x7 front speakers. At 40w RMS power handling they are a good match to the CDA-9856 receiver.

Alpine Type-R SPR-17LP 6-3/4" 2-way Speakers $149.99
To compliment your front speakers a pair of 6-3/4" rear speakers will give you some additional bass. Mazda3 owners may want to simply get a second pair of SPR-57LPs to fit the rear 5x7 openings.

Wiring Harnesses, installation kit, and instructions: FREE from Crutchfield.

If I just get the speakers and install then how will the sound be affected? Also, will I need an amp to run these and benefit the sound or not?
 
Ok, this is tough (only $500?), but here goes:

Modify the factory radio for RCA's and change out the limiting capacitors inside to get a clean signal. ~$25 for parts OR, spend the $25 on a Line Out Converter for the stock HU.

4ch amp, Scosche EFX HD4300, purchased authorized through www.sonicelectronix.com $119.99
hd4300.jpg


Blaupunkt VC650 component set for front, www.sonicelectronix.com, authorized vendor $179.99 (free shipping)
vc650.jpg


Ascendant Audio 10" Assassin subwoofer (or 12", just add $20), directly from www.ascendantaudio.com, $70
Assassin-10-side-tn.jpg


Complete Wiring kit, care of KnuKonceptz, for 4 channel, $29.99
KOL-AK4-tn.JPG


Wire the amp so the front components each get an amp channel, and the other two are bridged to the sub, a 4ohm load.

Make your own box, or fiberglass, $30 in materials. Or buy one for that much. Whatever.
Buy some sound dampener off the net, $25. You won't get much, but enough to START.


This totals $479.97. The rest is shipping.

You have a killer SQ cheapo system now.

I'm looking to upgrade my stereo rather than suspension for now. I sit in traffic more often than in the curves(what little there are in south FL) and already have a 10" sub in a ported tube. I've also got a 400watt single channel amp. I am really liking this setup listed above. I would rather just a set of high quality speakers in front(noone rides in back) rather than 4 decent speakers around the car. Would it be in my best intrest to sell the single channel amp and purchase the 4 channel? Install 1 amp under the pass. seat rather than find a spot for 2 different amps? If this is the case, that would save me an additional $100. Would you recomend adding anything else with the $100?

Tylor
 
Since this list, I've come up with better options for about $600 or so. The list changes pretty often for what's best. Keep in mind that you're resurrecting a thread from a year ago.
 
Yeah, i kinda figured there'd be afew other things considering it is a year old.

I bought a bluetooth headset, so, I'm $100 less now,

So, whatcha got for a good component setup for cheap?

Tylor
 
just put together a small nice system for my GF all kenwood gear and with instant rebates and crutchfield freebies it came out to 401.

deck
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=113KDCX492&tp=5684
front
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=410&i=113KFCP508&tp=106
rear
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=52300&i=113KFCX692&tp=91

the rear were a bit more then i thought but with an instant 50$ off for buying kenwood deck and 2 sets of speakers plus i think either the front components or the rears were another 37.50 the total came to 401 all i have to do now is install it and then buy a wiring kit for my jl audio e4300 i am not using and a patch cable and she will be good to go.
 
Kenwood KDC-BT838U - iPod and Bluetooth built in. $279.99
Dash kit, Harness, Ant Adaptor (avg. $30)
Polk Audio db1040 10" sub (make a box) $89.00
Kenwood KAC-6202 (amp) $85.00
Wiring and misc. ($17)
Total: $500

This is pricing off of Crutchfield, im sure there are better deals off of google...
 
Here is my $500 system:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-837
Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofers, quantity 2, $93.58

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5207
CDT Audio CL-S60A - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers $99 for the fronts

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=445
Phoenix Gold R5.0;4 - Phoenix Gold Octane R 4 Ch 500 Watt Amp $119.99


http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=4950
Eclipse CD2000 - Eclipse In-Dash CD/MP3 HD Ready Receiver $169.99

This setup should sound pretty nice IMO.
 
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