New Stereo Opinions?

[TippytheHippy]

I have a white 2008.5 w/Bose and Nav.
I first used advice for wire color from a previous thread on this site. (thank you cow like object)
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123723642&highlight=tippythehippy
I tapped into the drivers side and ran Pre-amp outs to the rear and hooked up a Fosgate P-2 8 sub in the well known stealth (Jack replacement spot) box. I also followed the improvements from a previous thread (on this site) for upgrading the sound with capacitors and coils (nice difference)http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123701496
....still not enough

New setup:
1. 2 P-2 2ohm 12s
2. 2 Mono Block P1000-1BD (one for each sub)
3. 1 P400-4BD (for front and back)
4. 1 CLss1 Summing device (JL AUDIO)
5. 1 CleanSweep (JL AUDIO)
6. 50 ft of DynaMat
7. 1 pair of 6x8 Fosgate T1682C
8. 1 pair of 6x8 Infinity Reference 6832CS
9. fosgate tweets (already located in the sails)
10. I will leave the fosgate 200-2 hooked up to the stealth 8 box


My question is this:
1. How do I go about hooking up the cleansweep and having it in the rear of the vehicle for adjustment?
2. I accidentally bought the summing device, what is its purpose and why is it helpful?
3. Where should I tap the Cleansweep into?

I feel like I am well on my way. I just am feeling a bit overwhelmed right at this moment. I know I am gonna take it slow. I am too picky to rush the job. any help or suggestions will be appreciated.
Thank you,
tippythehippy

 

[widgit117]

Well, it looks like you have quality items in the list. I will say that you will probably blow your subs with those amps. The RF P1000-1BD is rated at 500WX1 at 2 ohm cont. power. The sub is rated 250W RMS with a 500W peak. I would recommend the P300-1BD for your application. It will give you 300W RMS which is still over the 250W RMS of the speaker.

 

[TippytheHippy]

Well, it looks like you have quality items in the list. I will say that you will probably blow your subs with those amps. The RF P1000-1BD is rated at 500WX1 at 2 ohm cont. power. The sub is rated 250W RMS with a 500W peak. I would recommend the P300-1BD for your application. It will give you 300W RMS which is still over the 250W RMS of the speaker.

Hope I dont blow them. I appreciate the w2arning. I bought everything already...so we will have to see. I may end up blowing them but that just means i will get the pioneer speakers I want! LOL

What have you done to ur ride lately?

 

[widgit117]

Well I have added dimpled and slotted rotors lately and added hawk pads. I am done with my audio. Sort of. My braking led to my ground wire being ripped out of my sub amp.

 

[meicalnissyen]

I have a white 2008.5 w/Bose and Nav.
I first used advice for wire color from a previous thread on this site. (thank you cow like object)
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123723642&highlight=tippythehippy
I tapped into the drivers side and ran Pre-amp outs to the rear and hooked up a Fosgate P-2 8 sub in the well known stealth (Jack replacement spot) box. I also followed the improvements from a previous thread (on this site) for upgrading the sound with capacitors and coils (nice difference)http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123701496
....still not enough

New setup:
1. 2 P-2 2ohm 12s
2. 2 Mono Block P1000-1BD (one for each sub)
3. 1 P400-4BD (for front and back)
4. 1 CLss1 Summing device (JL AUDIO)
5. 1 CleanSweep (JL AUDIO)
6. 50 ft of DynaMat
7. 1 pair of 6x8 Fosgate T1682C
8. 1 pair of 6x8 Infinity Reference 6832CS
9. fosgate tweets (already located in the sails)
10. I will leave the fosgate 200-2 hooked up to the stealth 8 box


My question is this:
1. How do I go about hooking up the cleansweep and having it in the rear of the vehicle for adjustment?
2. I accidentally bought the summing device, what is its purpose and why is it helpful?
3. Where should I tap the Cleansweep into?

I feel like I am well on my way. I just am feeling a bit overwhelmed right at this moment. I know I am gonna take it slow. I am too picky to rush the job. any help or suggestions will be appreciated.
Thank you,
tippythehippy

I would return the cleansweep, and proceed with a normal install, possibly running heavy +12 wire per other how to's

 

[TippytheHippy]

I would return the cleansweep, and proceed with a normal install, possibly running heavy +12 wire per other how to's

Does that mean I dont need the cleansweep at all? do you know if the signal is clean coming from under the driver seat? See the cleansweep will change to full range right? One thing about it is that I like the fact that it changes the PREAMP to 8 volts!

 

[meicalnissyen]

Does that mean I dont need the cleansweep at all? do you know if the signal is clean coming from under the driver seat? See the cleansweep will change to full range right? One thing about it is that I like the fact that it changes the PREAMP to 8 volts!

That would/could be a signifigant advantage, the 8v. my old eclipse 55080 did 8v.

that said, how far do you wanna go ??

I am pretty pleased day 5 post install, I gotta pull the seat (again) to get to the amp knobs I wanna screw with the front and rear passover points and the input gainneed to come down a bit, but I do not know what the HU does soo I guess and listen and adjust

By all accounts,

and my own experience.

the gt HU is clean and full range

no need to clean sweep for freq reasons
8v, ........ well, I have 150rms into 4 logic lsx 1204
my ears do not bleed, but the are spread farther apart to contain the grin

the wire diagram MAY be wrong PHASE is correct, the rear L and R may be reversed

either that or I screwed up.

I just do not feel like pulling the harness I made and checking it
it was initially flipped l to r in the rear I flipped the rear rca inputs and all is fine

phase is correct so no real aches


It is likely that if you feed a big amp 8v and crank it you will exceed the stock 12+ input capability

 

[TippytheHippy]

It is likely that if you feed a big amp 8v and crank it you will exceed the stock 12+ input capability

Do you think a 500 farad capacitor will help with that issue?

 

[SKiZZ]

A capacitor is a bandaid in my experience. It's may help some, but upgraded wire, stronger alternator and seperate battery is the real answer. Because if the charging system can't keep the capacitor charged, it's not gonna help.