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- All Mazdas!
I would go with the AST if you want to win based on Andy and Andres feedback at the nationals.
-Derrick
New owner / autocrosser
- Thread starter Bentiac
- Start date
I would go with the AST if you want to win based on Andy and Andres feedback at the nationals.
-Derrick
zoomerang2
Member
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- 2012 Madza2 Touring
The AST units are one of the the best available, however unless you autocross on a competitive level, they may be overkill...here is the link:
http://www.ast-suspension.com/products.asp
That said, the AST units will be my next upgrade!
Honestly the Corksport adjustable dampers (paired with Corksport or other springs, H&R, Eibach...etc.) are a great option for a budget minded set-up, you can always upgrade later as your budget and competitiveness level increase...
Several serious Auto-x people here have even had good luck with the K-sport coilovers. Really it just depends on what performance level you are looking of verses what you are willing to spend...
I was considering the K-sport, based on it's popularity but noticed that they come with really soft springs rates (280/170) and to replace them with heavier springs would probably cost the same as the fiesta B-spec coil overs... they come with stiffer springs out of the box 450/500.
I'm neither just a novice nor after being a national champ, just somewhere in-between. I'll probably take the car to NT but not nationals and my local clubs are very competitive with a few National champs. I've had ASTs before and I know their quality is great but can't justify the price... looking for the next best thing.
I suspect that the fiesta coilovers would work fine but if not, I'll be going with the K-sport and stiffer springs.
I'm neither just a novice nor after being a national champ, just somewhere in-between. I'll probably take the car to NT but not nationals and my local clubs are very competitive with a few National champs. I've had ASTs before and I know their quality is great but can't justify the price... looking for the next best thing.
I suspect that the fiesta coilovers would work fine but if not, I'll be going with the K-sport and stiffer springs.
they do fit, but in order for it to be STF legal you need to remove the springs from the rear strut and mount them at the OEM spring perch location. Another forum member did this a long time ago and had a few pictures but i don't remember who.
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- 2012 Touring MT
Get the K sports, buy 2 6K rate springs for the front ang place the factory front ones (5K) in the rear, enough to beat a national level autocrosser.
Hey if you can wait I could sell you mine save $300
Andres
Hey if you can wait I could sell you mine save $300
Andres
Andy Hollis
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 2 Sport
I may be selling my whole K-Sports setup. Wife wants the car back to soft OE suspension. She has a neck injury. PM me, if interested.
Andy, I PMed you.
I also didn't realize how good the stock suspension is in heavy rain / standing water. Not a competitive group but me and co-driver paxed 1st & 3rd out of 48 this weekend: http://www.ubcscc.com/events/2013/sept29/i.txt
I'm very happy with this car... specially for our weather.
I also didn't realize how good the stock suspension is in heavy rain / standing water. Not a competitive group but me and co-driver paxed 1st & 3rd out of 48 this weekend: http://www.ubcscc.com/events/2013/sept29/i.txt
I'm very happy with this car... specially for our weather.
Andy Hollis
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 2 Sport
I always ran zero toe up front on the street, and then spun one tie rod one turn for events only (steering wheel will be cocked to remind you to put it back).
That much camber combined with toe out on the street will prematurely wear your tires if you do much street driving. W/o the toe out, the camber is not nearly as hard on the tires.
That's a very cool way to do it! I'm going to try it your way once I get the coils and get realigned, meanwhile I'm going to be doing around 1000km of DD... I think the wear should be okay?
Here is my current thoughts on a budget setup:
b-spec adjustable Rear Sway bar (purchased waiting to install) - Preloaded for dry and neutral for wet
K-sport shocks full stiff with 450 60mm 6" up front and the 280 springs on the back - Wet & Dry (to be purchased)
Camber bolts front -2.5 camber to start with and the above method for toe out (current)
Tires: 205 ZII on 15x7 for street and fun / wet events (current)
Dry events: 205 Rivals on 17x7.5 in front and 205 ZII on 15x7 at the back (2x Rival + UL to be purchased)
This is probably all I'm doing this year... not really interested in intake / exhaust mods / weight reduction until I need to replace them. Next on the list would be a set of 195 R1Rs for colder events.
Excluding tires and wheels this is well under $2k and it should get me 95% there, which is all I want.
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- All Mazdas!
Yeah neither did mine, lucky guy.
Did you mean 15x7 and 15x7.5 wheels? otherwise looks like you have everything you need.
And if you're interested in a late season deal on 205 ZII's, let me know. I've got a set I used for a one event test.
Yes, that was a typo. I currently have the ZII's on the car but I'm interested in R1R's and Rivals for testing.
Done with the rear:
Does ST allow interior panel modification to access the rear shock adjustment? I can't find it in the rulebook... it does allow modification for a rear STB installation but for that purpose only. How are people adjusting their rears with the K-sport?
Does ST allow interior panel modification to access the rear shock adjustment? I can't find it in the rulebook... it does allow modification for a rear STB installation but for that purpose only. How are people adjusting their rears with the K-sport?
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Andy Hollis
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 2 Sport
The allowance for shock adjuster holes in the plastic inner trim panels (not steel body structure, though) is inherited from the Stock category.
Dynotronics1
Member
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- 2011 Mazda2
andy, call me when you get a sec. New software done for your car
Car lowered with K-sports front and back. 450 hypercoils in the front and 350 H&R in the rear both are 6"... might consider stiffer and shorter in the rear if I get too much understeer. The front is lowered as far as fenders allow (which also helped with my endlinks that were rubbing on the fender wall before). The rear has just short of an inch to the fender. I'll be posting pictures.
Alignment was interesting... I'm getting less camber than before... guess control arms are pointing up and pulling the wheels closer together.
The other problem I noticed was that I have alot of toe in... not sure if my tripoint rsb is responsible or not? If so, should be easy to adjust it to get closer to zero... does the adjustable RSB affect toe at all?
Alignment was interesting... I'm getting less camber than before... guess control arms are pointing up and pulling the wheels closer together.
The other problem I noticed was that I have alot of toe in... not sure if my tripoint rsb is responsible or not? If so, should be easy to adjust it to get closer to zero... does the adjustable RSB affect toe at all?
