New AEM cold air intake, but now the check engine light is on

[CENTERS77]

Hey, i just installed the AEM cold air intake into my car but now the check engine light is on.

when i put the intake on i had the battery disconnected the whole time but in the directions it said that i was going to need the radio code otherwise after re connecting the battery the radio wasn't going to work ... but my radio worked just fine.

i am wondering if i didn't let the battery have enough time to reset or if my o2 sensors got messed up or what the deal is.

if anybody has a solution to this problem plz let me know. thanks

 

[el_Don]

Try re-setting the ecu by unplugging it like you said before. If that doesn't work, it could be possible that you got your maf sensor dirty, go to autozone and get a 3 dollar can of maf sensor cleaner and try that. Be sure not to physically touch the sensor with the spray nozzle.

 

[element1290]

I am having the exact same issue, if you go to autozone they will run your cel for the codes, mine was becuase my engine is running to lean at idle

 

[InFinity]

Well I have been told to not add any cold air intakes to my ms6. Bc they just dont run correctly.. IS this true for anyone else? I would like to know the truth b4 i buy one and tell me which one is the one that doesn't cause problems plz lol

thanks

 

[Blendercloud]

Well I have been told to not add any cold air intakes to my ms6. Bc they just dont run correctly.. IS this true for anyone else? I would like to know the truth b4 i buy one and tell me which one is the one that doesn't cause problems plz lol

thanks

There are a number of users who use CAI on their car successfully every day. You should know that you run the risk of getting a CAI wet and hydrolocking the vehicle though. If you get one, make sure you pick up a hydro shield to keep the water out and don't go through any deep water. If you do those two things, you should be okay.

Also, after the install, reset your ECU by unplugging your battery temporarily.

 

[Empurfektion]

I have that AEM CAI and I love it. I haven't had any problems with the CEL (well only when my MAF gets wet). I just put the COBB Turbo Inlet Pipe on and it's freakin awesome. You will enjoy that AEM CAI.

However, I EXTREMELY recommened getting the Hydro Shield because you you WILL suck water.

 

[Raynman]

I'm guessing OP has a naturally aspirated 6, therefore...

Quote the almighty crossbow from Mazda6tech:

What Does the Short and Long Fuel Trim have to Do With a P0171 Code?

A P0171 code (Check Engine Light) is thrown when the engine compares the Short Fuel Trim to the Long Fuel Trim and finds greater then a 9% difference. The Short Fuel Trim is basically a real time collaboration of data, which is a reflection of the current air/fuel ratio of the mazda6. The Long Fuel Trim is based on a default map (which is reset anytime you pull the negative battery cable, or reset your cel's with a scanner) and changes after each drive cycle by taking the SFT's data into itself.

Thus the computer has the capability to adapt its settings over time to a variety of conditions. If a change is introduced (more air from a CAI for example), and the SFT changes by a significant amount, the PCM marks a possible problem as a pending code. In the 4 cylinder this is a P0171 code, in the 6 cylinder this is a P0171 or P0174 code. If two concurrent drive cycles occur the PCM throws a check engine light, to let you know a difference is occuring.

This Cel does not necessarily mean that damage occurring...only that a difference has been noted. Based on UOA's (used oil analysis's) this difference is not changing or effecting engine wear in any way, shape, or form. Even with the additional air, at no point does the A/F ratio reach a dangerous "lean" condition.

Here are some A/F readings from the original injen intake. 14.7:1 is optimal fuel efficiency. 13:1 is optimal power delivery. Anything below 13 is rich.

@ 2500 rpm: 14.8
@ 3000 rpm: 12.8
@ 3500 rpm: 12.5
@ 4000 rpm: 11.9
@ 4500 rpm: 11.5
@ 5000 rpm: 11.0
@ 5500 rpm: 10.6
@ 6000 rpm: 10.2
@ 6200 rpm: 10.2

In quick conclusion...if you put on an aftermarket intake, there is a CHANCE that you may get a check engine light. Its not harmful to the car, but be forewarned.

 

[Bodookie]

This is a common problem with N/S Mazda's. Specifically the 2.3L, The problem is, is there is not enough restriction at the intake, and the pcm cannot be programmed to accomadate for the excess air flow. 2 solutions. 1) install a baffle before the MAF, to slow the incoming air down. 2) put it back to stock. I've tried numerous different filters and other solutions to no avail. as this engine is NOT direct injection, the pcm cannot be adjusted. HOWEVER, The car will continue to run fine in this condition. as long as you aren't getting detonation, which i doubt you will, you could drive it like that forever. but the light is a pain in the ass. the only other thing i ran into with this, is that some of the aftermarket CAI's, you'll need to mess with the way the MAF sits in the CAI. i also found that the oring is the incorrect soze from factory, and could lead to an unmetered air leak. Hope this helps.

 

[xxxmonoxidechil]

AEM sells a fix exactly for this. Its called a AEM air straightener. There less then $10 shipped brand new. Slap it in place, and the CEL will go off. Problem solved.