Need some serious HELP!

[SpecRacer17]

In the process of taking my steering knuckles off to take into a shop to have new wheel bearings put in. For the life of me I can not get the tie rod or the lower ball joint free from the knuckle! The bolts holding both of them on came off fine but after an hour or two of pounding, twisting, and swearing they haven't budged. What gives! Is there a trick to this or am I missing something. The service manual wasn't too much help either. I'm not going to wave the white flag yet but I need to get these in by tomorrow!

 

[thorracing271]

lower bar joint, i used a huge crowbar and pryed that thing loose.

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

This may not be an option but an impact wrench will probably solve this problem. My car has too much rust, I HAVE to use one on stuff like that. And lots of PB Blaster.

Edit: maybe I should learn to read better...I see now that my solution has nothing to do with your problem. Sorry.

 

[br289165]

Use the correct tool, a ball joint separator aka "pickle fork" ,cheap at murrays or Harbor freight.

In the process of taking my steering knuckles off to take into a shop to have new wheel bearings put in. For the life of me I can not get the tie rod or the lower ball joint free from the knuckle! The bolts holding both of them on came off fine but after an hour or two of pounding, twisting, and swearing they haven't budged. What gives! Is there a trick to this or am I missing something. The service manual wasn't too much help either. I'm not going to wave the white flag yet but I need to get these in by tomorrow!

 

[flash75]

Pickle forks usually damage the seals, use at the risk of having to replace some additional parts.

Clifton

 

[StealthWyvern]

Pickle forks usually damage the seals, use at the risk of having to replace some additional parts.

Clifton

How would you get them apart without one then?

 

[Benji]

there is another tool that you can use that works really well and tends not to damage the boots. This is not the exact one, the one i have only has two "jaws" but it works great for getting tie-rods and such, off of the hub

edit-before anyone tells me I know this is a gear puller

 

[sube]

All you need to do to remove tie rods is to use a hammer on the side of the knuckle where the tie rod goes through, a couple of good raps is usually enough to break the taper. I have used this method more times than I can remember and never had a problem breaking them free.

Pat.

 

[SpecRacer17]

Thanks for the input. I ended up getting a pickle fork which worked magic on both the tie rod ends and the ball joints. It did however tear all four rubber seals on them. Then I come to find out that mazda doesn't supply just the ball joint, you have to replace the whole control arm! Doh! Long story short I have two new control arms and tie rod ends coming from RockAuto for about $250 bucks. Oops. Anyone know if that "gear puller" can be used to push the new ball joint back into the knuckle? Something tells me its not going to just slide in...(nailbyt)

 

[sube]

Thanks for the input. I ended up getting a pickle fork which worked magic on both the tie rod ends and the ball joints. It did however tear all four rubber seals on them. Then I come to find out that mazda doesn't supply just the ball joint, you have to replace the whole control arm! Doh! Long story short I have two new control arms and tie rod ends coming from RockAuto for about $250 bucks. Oops. Anyone know if that "gear puller" can be used to push the new ball joint back into the knuckle? Something tells me its not going to just slide in...(nailbyt)

Put a little grease on the shaft, FYI I just replaced both lower control arms on mine and it is a b**** getting them bolted back in, Leave the tie rods and the ball joints until last, so you have a bit of wiggle room. Bolt in both ends of the control arm then push the ball joint into the knuckle, believe me it goes in a lot easier than getting the bastard out. Bolt up the tie rods last.Oh and count the number of turns it takes to screw the tie rods off, use the same number to screw them back, this will keep your alignment close to what it was, you will still need an alignment.

Pat.

Pat.

 

[Megazuel]

Thanks for the input. I ended up getting a pickle fork which worked magic on both the tie rod ends and the ball joints. It did however tear all four rubber seals on them. Then I come to find out that mazda doesn't supply just the ball joint, you have to replace the whole control arm! Doh! Long story short I have two new control arms and tie rod ends coming from RockAuto for about $250 bucks. Oops. Anyone know if that "gear puller" can be used to push the new ball joint back into the knuckle? Something tells me its not going to just slide in...(nailbyt)

If anything, you may need to get a pry bar in the gap where the pinch bolt goes through for the ball joint and spread it a bit. I have never, in all the different makes and models if have done ball joints on, ever had to use a tool to get the ball joint back in, its the "out" part that is normally the b****. And remember to torque the control arm to subframe bolts with the weight of the vehicle on them to avoid having the bushings distort (This is where the alignment rack comes in very handy )

 

[SpecRacer17]

Thats what I'm hoping. Unfortunately my garage didn't come with an alignment rack Can't I just position the arm where it would be as if the tires were on and the car was on the ground and tighten them? Thats the best I'll be able to do with what I got! I was planning on getting an alignment done after all this so maybe I;ll make sure they loosen and retighten them there.

 

[slavrenz]

For the tie rods, you need to put a jack under the arm to get some tension and then smack upwards on the tie rod end to shock it loose. As for the control arm, you can just take some bar stock and a hammer and pound down on a point near the ball joint. Eventually it will come loose.

 

[slavrenz]

If anything, you may need to get a pry bar in the gap where the pinch bolt goes through for the ball joint and spread it a bit. I have never, in all the different makes and models if have done ball joints on, ever had to use a tool to get the ball joint back in, its the "out" part that is normally the b****. And remember to torque the control arm to subframe bolts with the weight of the vehicle on them to avoid having the bushings distort (This is where the alignment rack comes in very handy )