Need Help And A New Engine

I'm ******. Just got a call back from the shop and apparently I've got at least one bad rod bearing. They say it calls for a new engine. They found one with 41k mi with a few extras. $4100 for engine and installation. Does this sound kosher to you guys?

Thanks,
-Frank

NOOO!!! talk to ken at PG. It sucks that you don't live in the area but u can definitely order an engine for less than that from him. And that installation seems a tad bit high as well. (PS- i just did this about 5 months ago. New engine and install through PG, but i could have my car towed there. chicagoland FTW!)
 
well I never got mine diagnosed. But it started ticking while at crusing speed and while releasing the gas. It wouldn't tick when stomping the gas pedal. I could narrow it down to piston one with a stethescope. It got more worse as time went on. By worse I mean it become continuos no matter how much gas I gave it. It also wasn't that loud either. But it finally gave out while punching it off the line to beat the traffic. Then it was no longer a ticking sound. It turned into a knock. Car lasted for two days then it finally blew. Two credit card size holes in the front and back of the block. I could see the rod laying on the bottom of the block. LOL I stuck my hand in there and pulled it out and cut my finger at the same time.

I suggest u get it fixed before u really have to by a new motor. A complete bearing set, forged rods and pistons, cometic gasket set, ARP headstuds, and timing belt kit can be had at protegegarage for around $2000 or less.

Exactly what's going on with my P5... I actually said '**** the dealership" and brought it to a foreign car service charge-your-face-off garage. Apparently my engine will last me a week at the most. Once again, I don't know how they could have figured this out in an hour, but whatever. I love my car, but I wish this was more reliable, although I did drive it pretty hard. I always thought Mazda built Pro's to limits (to cut down on inertia for revs and mpg's) and this is definately prof to me. I really don't feel like pushing this b**** in ANY way anymore.

If I decive to get the new block, I honestly can't wait to see how much my power deteriorated. Ought to do a dyno before and after. What a beautiful end... a baseball-sized hole in the block while on the pony rack. Truly glorious.
 
Last edited:
How the hell is everyones engine blowing now im scared


The FSDE has a poorly designed oiling system. The oil pump is loose in tollerances and drops oil pressure quickly. Thus more and more protege's ending up with spun bearings. Doc B Racing has discovered this on their race engines. The last I read they were working on a plan to fix this.

I've already gone through two motors. My car is parked on the side of my house waiting on funds for a third motor.
 
We're in the same boat. Except my car isn't at the dealer. I've got it at a friend's shop whose a mechanic. He says I may have a bad bearing as well, and a cracked and chipped main seal. Find out today if the cylinder walls are jacked.

But, I do have to gloat and say that I'll only be paying my $100 deductable for whatever I get. I'm really pushing for a new motor, so, the mechanic is trying to find something to get the warranty company to get a new motor

Ken sells brand new zero mileage short blocks for $2000. Or, used for $1000. Give him a call if you end up needing a motor. If I end up needing a motor, that's where I'm getting one
Tylor
 
OP, if it just a rod bearing then replace it yourself if you feel comfortable enough to do so, i did mine over the weekend, $35 Clevite bearings, pull both oilpans and replace all the bearings at the same time, obviously you need the bearing lube and the torque specs but it is honestly not that hard
 
Three motors for redneck damng thats crazy if you dont mind me askin what happened to them? Flagship howd your motor blow?
 
Three motors for redneck damng thats crazy if you dont mind me askin what happened to them? Flagship howd your motor blow?

Spun bearings due to oil starvation. Doc B Racing has discovered the cause and is working on a cure according to MAZDASPORT Magazine.
 
I think it has more to do with the oil pump and circulation. If ur main/rear seals and gaskets are all good ur oil shouldn't be going anywhere besides circulating within the motor.
 
I think it has more to do with the oil pump and circulation. If ur main/rear seals and gaskets are all good ur oil shouldn't be going anywhere besides circulating within the motor.

Its the oil pump and housing. MAzda made the tollerances too loose Doc B Racing has done some research in having them coated to tighten up the tollerances.
 
horse power freaks sell a higher output oil pump but the shipping here to hawaii is rediculous. I was gonna order PIAA wiper blades and the shipping was twice as much as the cost of the proucts. They wanted $70 shipping for something that cost $30. PG is the best cuz they ship free to me yay

Would be nice to solve the issue. I've experienced a spun bearing and its not pretty. But x3 is crazy.
 
Last edited:
horse power freaks sell a higher output oil pump but the shipping here to hawaii is rediculous. I was gonna order PIAA wiper blades and the shipping was twice as much as the cost of the proucts. They wanted $70 shipping for something that cost $30. PG is the best cuz they ship free to me yay

Would be nice to solve the issue. I've experienced a spun bearing and its not pretty. But x3 is crazy.


Its zoom-zoom-boom X's 2. This will only be my 3rd motor. I haven't blown the third one yet. Actually both motors will be torn apart and combined into one using all the best parts. LOL

You got a link for that oil pump?
 
Its zoom-zoom-boom X's 2. This will only be my 3rd motor. I haven't blown the third one yet. Actually both motors will be torn apart and combined into one using all the best parts. LOL

You got a link for that oil pump?

toga oil pump part#256438

Horsepowerfreaks.com

I'm on my phone so I can't copy and paste the link. Not that hard to find. Even though there shipping sucks. Navigating through the weboage is fairly easy. Just choose mazda then protege. Scroll to the bottom and choose oil pump.

Or could try an accusump setup. Oops didn't mean to jinx u. Ur third motor gonna be solid.
 
On snap!(boom06) I just looked at the manual online, it's going to be a expensive (painfully long) swap.

Remove timing belt
Remove AC and tubing
Remove Oil Pan
Remove Tranny
Remove .....

Dude, I hope that this is not an major issue! I had an engine go and got it replaced. I had them use a AWR oil pan instead just to be safe. It will piss me off to no end if I really also needed the oil pump! That would have saved me so much hassle and expense!!!(sad2) There is no way in heck I would put a turbo on this motor if that is the case!
 
toga oil pump part#256438

Horsepowerfreaks.com

I'm on my phone so I can't copy and paste the link. Not that hard to find. Even though there shipping sucks. Navigating through the weboage is fairly easy. Just choose mazda then protege. Scroll to the bottom and choose oil pump.

Or could try an accusump setup. Oops didn't mean to jinx u. Ur third motor gonna be solid.

$270.80

Toga Protege High Volume Oil Pumps
Photo may differ for each model

All High Volume pumps are brand new, have tighter tolerances, are made of 4130 steel, and are hand packed with A.R.P. moly lube for initial start up!

These are the finest Import High Volume Pumps in today's market place. We import these pumps from a Japan based company which makes both OEM and HP pumps for Import racing.

Why get a Toga High Volume pump?
Unlike other suppliers, TOGA supplies both the Pump and the Front Cover for ALL front mounted Oil Pumps!
They meet the demands of today's high performance engines
They increase the life of any motor & are a must for high rev motors
Give OEM builds a great amount of protection for the heart of the motor = no oil starvation!
All pumps come with a 2 year warranty (1 year for 800HP+)
All pumps are stamped with a red HV imprint
 

New Threads and Articles

Back