NA Tech Race to 100whp per 1000cc's

[AusOrion]

We are indeed a rare breed...

Definitely. And there is even less support for n/a FS-DE's than the turbo guys.

I just don't like turbos very much,too much to go wrong,they sound funny to me

I just think the turbo thing has been overdone on these cars. Have a look at the number of turbo kits currently available - and the lack of buyers

 

[br289165]

Tryin to get he most out of it I can within $ reason.

LOL.....People building small displacement, high revving, high horsepower (relatively) Mazda piston motors are pretty much non-existent.


And BR I think the only thing you need to modify is your mid-pipe for the Probe header, though I'm really not positive.

 

[MakeMeGoFast]

Oh and BR, please be sure to get a video clip up once everything is buttoned up.

 

[br289165]

i will but i cant ever find a driver for my pos jvc camera

Oh and BR, please be sure to get a video clip up once everything is buttoned up.

 

[LordWorm]

Any room in the budget for a decent header? The 626/MX-6/Probe 4-2-1 would do you more good but you'll need to modify the rest of your exhaust. AWR has their header listed on their site again, that would be the best option if available.

Although you might as well keep the OBX and if you want more power down the road go with a better designed header.

Best option would be an Autoexe header - should be able to find one second hand on yahoo japan??

they are probably the best "mass production" header for the car - close to equal length 4-2-1 with really nice merges. AWR header merges from primary to secondary are a little...gross...and from memory the merge was pretty woeful.

Even with the Autoexe, i'd modify it by removing the ball/spring flange and welding an expansion/megaphone to take it to 2.5in then use a regular flange on the end of that. Have seen this done on an autoexe before and it gave some nice results.

626 manifold.Tuning with a G-Tech,about 7200 max on stock rods/pistons,a little more when switch to long rods.

I wouldn't take the stockers that far personally.. not for prolonged periods of time. I have my hard-cut set at 7200...soft cut at 7000...always frightens me when it sneaks past 7000

People building small displacement, high revving, high horsepower (relatively) motors are a rare breed indeed. I know as well.

Is there not a better option or are you porting the manifold or anything? What about a throttle body?

Stock throttlebody is already to big by the numbers... any larger and you are going go backwards as velocity drops off pretty rapidly.



I think this is a nice solid build, but its going to be taken back by the header. The header will be what ultimate prevents you from hitting your goals. i'd be looking at an alternative sooner rather than later. As unsavory as it might sound to your wallet, a custom job might be worth looking at. There are also some other alternatives available in this part of the world... Pacemaker do a reasonably nice 4-1, which could be improved by adding a merge collector.

 

[niky]

LOL.....People building small displacement, high revving, high horsepower (relatively) Mazda piston motors are pretty much non-existent.

Statistically speaking, round off the numbers... and you're right.

And BR I think the only thing you need to modify is your mid-pipe for the Probe header, though I'm really not positive.

I have the 4-2-1s for the 626/Probe. Yup. All we did was modify the midpipe. Not completely satisfied with the performance... as LordWorm says... the merges are pretty woeful. The final merge goes into a pretty tiny 2" pipe to mate with the stock pipe, so that's where we cut it to fit my 2.375".

Thinking of going for a custom-built long 4-1 the shop has lying around. Just haven't gotten around to asking the owner what he wants for it.

 

[br289165]

I'm down with that, after i put the integrals in the 1st time (before the Microtech,headwork and new pistons) and spun it that fast it felt kinda loose up high, made me real skeptical about possibly shakin s*** loose. I'm hopin since it'll breathe better and I can play with the fuel up high it'll rev up quicker to those R's with less time to stress out. Lord Worm, where can I find a Pacemaker?

Best option would be an Autoexe header - should be able to find one second hand on yahoo japan??

I wouldn't take the stockers that far personally.. not for prolonged periods of time. I have my hard-cut set at 7200...soft cut at 7000...always frightens me when it sneaks past 7000





I think this is a nice solid build, but its going to be taken back by the header. The header will be what ultimate prevents you from hitting your goals. i'd be looking at an alternative sooner rather than later. As unsavory as it might sound to your wallet, a custom job might be worth looking at. There are also some other alternatives available in this part of the world... Pacemaker do a reasonably nice 4-1, which could be improved by adding a merge collector.

 

[br289165]

Looks like OBX makes a 4-2-1, is it worth a s***?

Statistically speaking, round off the numbers... and you're right.



I have the 4-2-1s for the 626/Probe. Yup. All we did was modify the midpipe. Not completely satisfied with the performance... as LordWorm says... the merges are pretty woeful. The final merge goes into a pretty tiny 2" pipe to mate with the stock pipe, so that's where we cut it to fit my 2.375".

Thinking of going for a custom-built long 4-1 the shop has lying around. Just haven't gotten around to asking the owner what he wants for it.

 

[CulRidr]

Looks like OBX makes a 4-2-1, is it worth a s***?

Not for the Protege they don't, despite what the image on the website shows you.

 

[jonridinhi]

They made one and no not the best just a noisy cat delete...

 

[carifresco]

Twiggys vs Integral stg 3?
which are better?

 

[br289165]

Integrals outta business

 

[carifresco]

yes but im getting a regrind
the spec of the intagrals stg 3 are good enough?

 

[LordWorm]

Integrals outta business

and Twiggy's no longer made

 

[carifresco]

do you know the spec of twiggys?

 

[LordWorm]

I have the full lobe profile laying around somewhere at home (so more than just advertised duration and lift....basically the info that would be required to replicate the ramp rate and lobe shape and basically create an exact replica)....
but.
Its not my I.P. to give away.
and you would struggle to regrind to the spec (exhaust cam base circle is actually much larger than stock)

If you can get ahold of a set that someone is selling, that might be the best way to go (they come up on the FS forums every now and then)

Even the turbo ones will do if you have adjustable cam gears to open the overlap up

 

[carifresco]

What about the integral
I was thinking regrind mine with stg3 specs:

Seat Duration (.014") Seat Duration + .003" .050" Duration Gross Cam Lift
Stock (intake / exhaust) 254 / 237
242.2 / 226.7 214.8 / 198.7 .342"/.322" (8.69 / 8.18 mm)
Stage 1 256 249.4 217.0 .346" (8.79 mm)
Stage 2 264 257.4 224.8 .375" (9.52 mm)
Stage 2.5 268 261.4 227.9 .375" (9.52 mm)
Stage 3 272 265.4 232.1 .385" (9.78 mm)

 

[LordWorm]

If you are going custom you should consider getting something specific for your application made....

Ideally speaking cams should be your last consideration - its often not the case because off the shelf items somewhat limit what you can get at.

What are you doing to the motor? what are your goals?

 

[carifresco]

Im making a N/P FP engine, it already have
Jspec piston .20 OB
Full made head
SR Cam gears
626 IM
Custom intake
MS 2
Ebay headers (custom one soon)

For the cams I ordered Integrals in PG but they are out of busnises
kind stuck there

Soon geeting Eibach valve springs
4.68 Mfactory final drive

 

[br289165]

New custom CAI not the final mount, shown for pictures, will eventually do a light polish,it's 2.85" ID, got a rubber grommet comin to tighten the tube into the side hole.Gonna probably go with an AFE angle flange topless filter. Have to get some reshaped brake tube outta the master.