My KLZE Build Journal

If you get a definitive list of every part that is needed for this swap then this should be stickied or a new thread should be made. Do you have any sort of list now?

What made you come to a standstill on the project?
 
Ok so from what you said everything is as follows:

-V6 Engine and trans bolt onto stock engine mounts
-MX-6 axles are the right size and bolt up to stock hubs, etc.
-Radiator drops in except for the need of custom brackets, easy enough
-Various lines must be customized (fuel, coolant, etc.), easy enough
-Wiring must be adapted (problem with wiring for the stock tach and temp) kinda rough
-Fab up a custom midpipe -> catback, etc.

Ok, so everything seems on point here are my questions:

1) Whats the deal with the shifter linkage? Do you use an MX-6 or 3rd gen pro. If MX-6 does it bolt up no problem

2) The Engine bolts into all four stock engine mounts???

3) What about the AC?

4) What do you do with the battery? The trunk mount sucks because there is big power loss from running a long battery cable to the engine bay

5) The engine uses the stock 3rd gen subframe and clears the steering components,etc ??

6) any other custom fab needed for proper fitment, etc.


- On a side note, I have heard of the KLZE dynoing around 180+ WHP with basic bolts ons and the US KL- (03 or DE ???) dynoing 160+ whp with the same basic bolt ons.
 
Bump for a restart
 
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on the subject of tuning IRTBs, biggest issue is that you'll need to tune on TPS, as you wont be able to get a solid MAP signal for them...this is no biggy....your tuner should be able to deal with this. You'd also want to make sure that the throttlestops are all set the same so you get an equal amount of air into each cylinder under all conditions.

on the subject of the bonnet, have you considered a removable scoop, that you can mount a panel filter in for road driving - and remove completely for bare naked throttles on the track? just an idea ;)
 
here is my question, how does the v6 respond to boost??? does it have issues like the FS-de has with rods?

Pretty well. I got just under 300 to the wheels on 10-ish pounds.
That was a KL-DE.
I nuked one motor (sheared of a rod cap when I hit a piece of broken asphalt) and even after the rod completely left the motor it still ran really well. Scary.
I drove it 15 miles like that, parked it and then started it right up the next day.

[[Sorry about the "Welcome to last year" threadsurrection.]]
 
on the subject of tuning IRTBs, biggest issue is that you'll need to tune on TPS, as you wont be able to get a solid MAP signal for them...this is no biggy....your tuner should be able to deal with this. You'd also want to make sure that the throttlestops are all set the same so you get an equal amount of air into each cylinder under all conditions.

on the subject of the bonnet, have you considered a removable scoop, that you can mount a panel filter in for road driving - and remove completely for bare naked throttles on the track? just an idea ;)


Velocity stacks sticking out of the proteges hood..........have to figure how to make that look good.
 
Tach reader

Focus gave me this link for the tach problems we might have... so i thought i would share it with you... if you didnt have an idea already

subbin for information... to take some time or stress of your hands i could go do some research you havent done yet... and share ideas off each other...

btw where r u gettin your motor from? and could you please get me a link for that radiator that bolts-on nicely? keep up the good work!
 
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Thats where I plan on sending my heads if possible. and anything else I need machined for that matter.
 
What are they optimized for RPM wise

That'll depend on alot of things dude.... cam overlap, how the heads flow, and so forth.

its difficult to look at a cam shaft profile and say "this will work best for exactly this RPM"...its kind of working backwards.

If you are super serious about building an engine, do the cams LAST....the cams are the "brains" of the engine....and should be designed and matched to best suite everything else you have in the build......
 
Where in SE PA are you, this intrigues me. I've got more than a little bit of experience with KL-31 bits and parts, and it'd be cool to lend any help I could.
 
I have a protege 2001 gt whit klze!! cam kl-31!The block are completly rebuilt and the head have new spring valve(intercep)and spacer of the DE!I use a jdm disti whit msd blaster ss coils pack!mx-6 transmition lsd,and all the stuff around is new!(radiator mx-6,air clim:) ,etc!2.5 mendrel belt ss whit resonator an high flow cat!

So i run the mx-6 cpu 96 (obd2)whit the kl-o2 vaf and i run perfectly!My air/fuel are good !I have read a lot about that and i lost about 4 whp whit this cpu(some body said 20 hp it impossible ...14,98 at 1/4 i have done yet!so...

And im looking for msd windiw switches and fpr!
Do you think ,if i oversize my t-b at 67mm ,the better way is MS or whit this stuff(fpr and msd sw)i will be ok???
 
a 67mm tb will keep HP from dropping dramatically close to redline. Keep it pretty even right 'till redline.
 
a 67mm tb will keep HP from dropping dramatically close to redline. Keep it pretty even right 'till redline.

Ok perfect!Thank you

So my red line are at 8000 tour and my power band said to me shift a 7200 maxx!so....i never seen the cut off for nothing anyway..
 

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