My DYNO results

heheh

Chojin said:
Hmm,

186.07 * 1.15 = 213.9
194.22 * 1.15 = 223.4

-vs-

(186.07 / .85) = 218.9 = (186.07 - 15%)
(194.22 / .85) = 228.5 = (194.22 - 15%)

Cheers.

-Shawn

Damn you Math Nazi!
I was close!
s*** were's my math book?
:p :p :p

Found it... According this I was right... probally :D
Chapter 5 - Percent
Section 5.3A - Solving Percent Problems Using an Equation
The Translation:

Word(s) Mathematical Meaning
of

is

what number
Multiply

Equal To

Any Letter (usually n)




Setting Up the Percent Equation:
Using the above translations, setting up a correct equation is easy - just remember, the percent must be worked with as a decimal. If you are given a percent in the problem, change it to a decimal for the calculation. If you are finding a percent, your calculation will result in a decimal and you must change it to a percent for your answer.

When setting up the equation, if the n is by itself on one side of the equal sign, simplify the other side of the equation to get your answer. If there is a number being multiplied by the n, divide both sides of the equation by that number.

Example 1:

What is 9% of 65?

n = 0.09 65

n = 5.85

Example 2:

72 is what percent of 900?

72 = n 900

72/900 = n

n = 0.08 = 8%
 
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I just kind of cycled through and didnt come upon anyone asking, sorry if someone already did, how did you get past the 10psi cut that i hear about? You have some type of bypass system or have you just not had the problem. Thanks
 
OrangeSpeed said:
I just kind of cycled through and didnt come upon anyone asking, sorry if someone already did, how did you get past the 10psi cut that i hear about? You have some type of bypass system or have you just not had the problem. Thanks

I didn't bypass anything. Everyone was assuming that 10 psi was the highest you can go before the fuel shut down. Well I am a person who likes to take chances. I asked around and I got answers and I just did it. I don't think for a car that just came out, people know alot about. I am thinking about going to 14psi. If the fuel shuts off, oh well I'll just wait till it comes back up and then lower it again.
 
THE FUEL CUT IS NOT 10 PSI. it's actually much higher than we all expected. according to some experiences, its greater than 14. but again THE FUEL CUT IS NOT 10 PSI.
 
AFaceInTheCrowd said:
THE FUEL CUT IS NOT 10 PSI. it's actually much higher than we all expected. according to some experiences, its greater than 14. but again THE FUEL CUT IS NOT 10 PSI.

I never said it was. I would not be running 12psi's right now if it was. I know it's much hight thats why I am going to 14psi's tommorow.
 
bcbadboy said:


I never said it was. I would not be running 12psi's right now if it was. I know it's much hight thats why I am going to 14psi's tommorow.

Well Good luck;) and hope everything goes well.
 
with around 190whp and 200wtq a MSP should run low 14's on street tires and mid 13's on slicks with a good driver :)

with 14psi this should be attainable :)
 
if the engine doesnt pop first

I'm realy worried about somthing like that hapening
I cant stand to see someone else loose an engine
 
bcbadboy said:


I never said it was. I would not be running 12psi's right now if it was. I know it's much hight thats why I am going to 14psi's tommorow.

hehe oops, guess you hit the post button b4 i did... hehe... i was replying to orangespeed, guess i shoulda hit the quote button, sry.
 
See I would love to do this, but I'm scared of ruining my engine prematurely. Sometimes i wonder If I bought a good tuning car, Ah well I love my car and if your car still holds strong then I might do the same.
 
rx-kevin has it. he made a video of it. its pretty tyte. he has no stall problems or anything. he is running a higher boost too. so i think that is helping his stall problems.
 
soundbombing...you have any stall issues running it vented to the atmosphere?
 
That looks like a custom job you have there. Does the car act up when you punch it? The only reason why I didn't put it on was because I thought the engine would stutter or shut down due to releasing preasure to the atmosphere rather than back to the turbo. What is your boost at?

This ? is for soundbombing + rx-kevin.

Thanx
 
ARunto & bcbadboy

After all the talk about stalling when venting into the atmosphere I decided to get the recirc. kit. Because everyone was so doubtful. Well, just to let you know it is a waste of money and doesn't help a damn thing. Plus it is listed for around $70 and all it includes is a damn hose line and 2 nice fittings (for the hks atleast). It is a waste because when I recirculated it I had a stalling problem that most of the turbo mp3 owners had. It would do it coasting on the freeway, on a medium to slow right turn (weird), and on a hard short burst like a floor it and stop. I was disappointed and you can't have the nice sound while recirculating because you take out the cone piece inside the bov. so not only did it sound really, i mean really nasty and ugly it stalled. So I just took it off and vented it. Same thing but a sick ass sound, and really loud.

I was pretty upset and basically read all the damn stalling threads on this damn board. I've never read so many possible solutions in my life and so many opinions. All the piping is tight and all the lines are secured. I wonder if there is an official way to tell a vacuum leak I'm just new to some stuff. Anyhow, we adjusted the idle with the two adjustments by the throttle body and it was up to around 900-1000 rpm.

All was fine and I was just going to roll like that until maybe I could get a safc and hope that would fix it since that unit does work on everything excep wot and should help the stalling. Bad idea (to turn up the idle) for me because I still need to get an aftermarket fan or chop the og shroud because the piping goes where the second fan (driver) was. I was driving like a mad man and unfortunately overheated like a jack ass because a lack of one fan. So I turned the idle down and keep the a/c so at least that fan was pulling air in and was back to where I started.

Anyway so I don't take up too much of anyones time typing this book. The short story is the recirculating doesn't help with the stalling or the supposed faster spooling of the turbo. Also, like I believe I've read from rxkevin is that he's "learned" how to drive around it. If we are talking about the same thing I've also learned. You have to change your driving style to an extent in order to enjoy all the mods that you do. That is until someone finds a DAMN FIX, PLEASE! We need some tech help or at least I do, safc, abc, 123, sds, motec, haltec, aem, diff. ecu, down pipe, diff t/b, I don't know but hopefully one of us will solve the mazda stalling issue.

Oh yeah for now my boost is stock. I want to have the I/C, piping, down pipe w/ full exhaust, intake, and a helpful piggy back with some gauges before I turn up the boost. I'm hoping a 3" d/p will up the boost at least 1 psi if not 2, we'll see. Then get some decent pistons/rods/rings and so some damage because when I drove that srt4 at my shop the other day, it wasn't nothing nice. At 5lbs. when it was cold it would of eaten my car up. Then it warmed up and at 10lbs. it was pretty wicked. Still waiting for the supposedly 14psi of boost it has, but I haven't seen it.
 
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soundbombing said:
ARunto & bcbadboy

After all the talk about stalling when venting into the atmosphere I decided to get the recirc. kit. Because everyone was so doubtful. Well, just to let you know it is a waste of money and doesn't help a damn thing. Plus it is listed for around $70 and all it includes is a damn hose line and 2 nice fittings (for the hks atleast). It is a waste because when I recirculated it I had a stalling problem that most of the turbo mp3 owners had. It would do it coasting on the freeway, on a medium to slow right turn (weird), and on a hard short burst like a floor it and stop. I was disappointed and you can't have the nice sound while recirculating because you take out the cone piece inside the bov. so not only did it sound really, i mean really nasty and ugly it stalled. So I just took it off and vented it. Same thing but a sick ass sound, and really loud.

I was pretty upset and basically read all the damn stalling threads on this damn board. I've never read so many possible solutions in my life and so many opinions. All the piping is tight and all the lines are secured. I wonder if there is an official way to tell a vacuum leak I'm just new to some stuff. Anyhow, we adjusted the idle with the two adjustments by the throttle body and it was up to around 900-1000 rpm.

All was fine and I was just going to roll like that until maybe I could get a safc and hope that would fix it since that unit does work on everything excep wot and should help the stalling. Bad idea (to turn up the idle) for me because I still need to get an aftermarket fan or chop the og shroud because the piping goes where the second fan (driver) was. I was driving like a mad man and unfortunately overheated like a jack ass because a lack of one fan. So I turned the idle down and keep the a/c so at least that fan was pulling air in and was back to where I started.

Anyway so I don't take up too much of anyones time typing this book. The short story is the recirculating doesn't help with the stalling or the supposed faster spooling of the turbo. Also, like I believe I've read from rxkevin is that he's "learned" how to drive around it. If we are talking about the same thing I've also learned. You have to change your driving style to an extent in order to enjoy all the mods that you do. That is until someone finds a DAMN FIX, PLEASE! We need some tech help or at least I do, safc, abc, 123, sds, motec, haltec, aem, diff. ecu, down pipe, diff t/b, I don't know but hopefully one of us will solve the mazda stalling issue.

Ok that pretty much answered my question.
 
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