The engine is constantly moving, especially if he was hitting gears, i have had the maf wiring fall off, bpv slipping off etc, you would be surprised. Since the check engine light is not coming on even with the keys turned to acc. then I think that would indicate that something electrical is screwed. So even when the car has not been started, as soon as you put in the key the temp goes to max? It must be electrical or something to do with your thermostat if it was mechanical I would think, until you figure it out this whole thread posting war is a waste.
My car is toast. What should I do?
- Thread starter peepsalot
- Start date
The engine is constantly moving, especially if he was hitting gears, i have had the maf wiring fall off, bpv slipping off etc, you would be surprised. Since the check engine light is not coming on even with the keys turned to acc. then I think that would indicate that something electrical is screwed. So even when the car has not been started, as soon as you put in the key the temp goes to max? It must be electrical or something to do with your thermostat if it was mechanical I would think, until you figure it out this whole thread posting war is a waste.
Calm down man, damn. I agree that there is something wrong with the electrical, but I hadn't ruled out that there could be a mechanical AND electrical problem, one caused by the other possibly. I'm just trying to look at it from every angle. Yeah, I don't know much about the electrical system, that's why I'm on here asking questions. No need to get ugly here.BlkZoomZoom said:
EDIT: oh, maybe you were talking to the other idiot. Whatever, I have him on my ignore list, i suggest everyone do the same.
Last edited:
spicynamja
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Send the videos
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
It really takes alot for me to get tweaked but this idiot hit it on the nose.
He obviously has no understanding of electrical systems or engine management. He also has no real imagination of what happens in a vehicle while driving. English is apparently no longer his language, he has resorted to some type of gibberish. Yet dispite all of this he believes he is making valid points, which makes me think he is even more stupid than I originally thought.
I'm done, he is ignored.
He obviously has no understanding of electrical systems or engine management. He also has no real imagination of what happens in a vehicle while driving. English is apparently no longer his language, he has resorted to some type of gibberish. Yet dispite all of this he believes he is making valid points, which makes me think he is even more stupid than I originally thought.
I'm done, he is ignored.
NSNMotorsports
Member
- :
- Protege MP3 #1026
alrighty... there are several connections you need to check.. you definitely have an electrical issue associated with the connectors on the driver side of the block... I messed it up once before and had my temp gauge peg out as well..
Verify that you have the green and white connectors going to the VTCS and VICS solenoids appropriately (see pictures at www.nsnmotorsports.com in the documents section in the spacers install area... ) that should give you some vision of where things should be going as well...
Next, verify that you have a connector going to the TPS on the bottom side of the throttle. Also verify that you have a connector going to the EGR solenoid. And there is also one more connector in that area that I can't remember. Make sure they are all seated properly. Verify that you have the ground wires in that area in place as well.. I'll look through my pictures and my harnesses and double check more for you.. but it is definitely a connectors issue.
I'll try to keep checking on this to see how you are doing.
Thanks,
Steve
sales@nsnmotorsports.com
Verify that you have the green and white connectors going to the VTCS and VICS solenoids appropriately (see pictures at www.nsnmotorsports.com in the documents section in the spacers install area... ) that should give you some vision of where things should be going as well...
Next, verify that you have a connector going to the TPS on the bottom side of the throttle. Also verify that you have a connector going to the EGR solenoid. And there is also one more connector in that area that I can't remember. Make sure they are all seated properly. Verify that you have the ground wires in that area in place as well.. I'll look through my pictures and my harnesses and double check more for you.. but it is definitely a connectors issue.
I'll try to keep checking on this to see how you are doing.
Thanks,
Steve
sales@nsnmotorsports.com
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
lol @ peeps....wasn't aimed at you by anymeans.
The reason your vehicle doesn't start is electrical, get that taken care of before worrying about the mechanical aspect.
The reason your vehicle doesn't start is electrical, get that taken care of before worrying about the mechanical aspect.
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
lol @ nsnmotorsports- None of those sensors will disable the pcm self-check.
eting_pro5
Member
- :
- '03 Pro5
what's the coolant bypass?
NSNMotorsports
Member
- :
- Protege MP3 #1026
BlkZoomZoom said:
Well since I've had this happen specifically when I've toyed with these sensors I'll beg to differ. I've HAD the same problem before man... that's all I'm saying.
If he's got something crossed it could be easily pulling the PCM down and disabling it as well.. so I'm just making sure he's got the basics taken care of.
Here are some pics of the wiring and connectors in that area... they may be of some use. (and two on the passenger side... the CAM sensor and one other, which is in the picture... the cam sensor is on the valve cover.)
Also keep in mind that if he has a blown fuse or the like that is disabling the PCM that blown fuses don't just happen on their own... there has to be a cause.. and the bypass and the spacers can't do this, so it has to be connectors associated with his installation.
Thanks,
Steve (TurfBurn)
Attachments
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
good point to nsn. However very unlikely, a solenoid is a solenoid. I agree to your point on the temp. gauge, however find it highly unlikely to the point of blowing fuses.
Ya never know though....
Sorry 'bout the lol there.....that idiot had me worked up.
Ya never know though....
Sorry 'bout the lol there.....that idiot had me worked up.
Thanks for the info NSN, I just checked and rechecked those connections though, they are all snug, I unhooked them and snapped them in again to be sure.
I have the old vtcs actuator completely removed, so I capped off the line(the one with the little green cylinder on it) with a bolt that fit snugly in it. There shoudn't be an issue with that, right?
I have the old vtcs actuator completely removed, so I capped off the line(the one with the little green cylinder on it) with a bolt that fit snugly in it. There shoudn't be an issue with that, right?
No problem... There are different impedence solenoids on the car, and if he somehow got a solenoid connection on a sensor (aka the VICS on the TPS) that could cause some issues.... I don't think it'll have blown fuses, but I know it was super strange when my car locked up like that.. (which is additionally odd since I run a standalone... but the ECU controls my gauge cluster). I had to go over all the connectors etc. and then it went away... so it was some kind of fault or short in them that caused the problem. It was after I did my tranny swap.BlkZoomZoom said:
I'd start out by checking the connectors. then work through all the fuses in the engine bay box... use a fuse tester or a volt meter that does continuity... After you go through all of those, then do the ones on the interior down by the fog light switch.
There is a good chance that since it happened while driving that something came loose and that caused the problem... Just be very thorough and you'll find it..
Damn it.. posting under both my handles accidentally here!
EDIT: And looking through the shop manual it does apparently use the majority of those sensors directly for calculating ignition and fuel and so forth....
Last edited:
Ok, I just checked the fuses in the cabin. I didn't realize those were there. I saw the lone 20A under the steering wheel and thought that was the only one. Well, guess which one was blown?
That's right, the ECU. Ok, that is great, now if I only could figure out WHY it was blown, I would be all set.
That's right, the ECU. Ok, that is great, now if I only could figure out WHY it was blown, I would be all set.
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
NSn is making good points, however you shouldn't be concerned with these as much as you should be concerned with why the check engine light doesn't come on when the key is turned on.
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
Now check the connector located on the far left of the engine compartment by the drive belts. That one and the one underneath the intake manifold are the two that I would worry about shorting.
