My Audio Install....PART 1 (pics)

[Solo2Protege]

My Audio Install....Now Showing: PART 1.5.1 (**UPDATED 6-18-06**)

PART 1

Nothing special, well not yet anyway....

I have been so incredibally busy with all kinds of extra ciricular stuff, that today i just decided to take time out for myself. It's been way too long coming and the stock audio system is just annoying my now. So at around 2pm, i shut off my phone, unplugged my TV and computer and became unreachable

I don't have my Subs yet, and i haven't finallized my ideas for the sub box and amp rack, but i felt i needed to get the ball rolling. I have buying little things here and there, and well, the pile is growing, so i better start doing something about it!

So, for PART 1 of my audio install, i installed the following items:

1. Power wire run thru firewall and connected to battery (Stinger 4awg - Yellow)
2. fuse holder inside battery box (DEI)
3. POS battery Terminal (Stinger)
4. LOC (DEI)
5. Remote turn on (DEI)

Dosen't sound like much, but i like to do s*** right, as you'll see from the pics, i just took my sweet time and had fun doing it.

So, the first thing i did was locate a spot for the 4awg power wire to make it's way into the engine bay. I found that just under the large loom/grommet on the passenger side, was a good spot.

Pulled the glovebox and had MORE than enough room to work with. I used split loom right the way through for 2 reasons.
1) it looks clean and blends right in.
2) The only grommets i had where alittle too big for the 4awg alone, but with the loom, it was a nice tight fit.
I then routed it with the factory looms into the kick panel and will eventually run it back to the amps....duh...lol

Then rounting it with the factory loom in the engine bay, behind the brake booter, around the battery box and then into the battery box. Just so happens there was a perfect opening right there waiting for me.

I used the factory opening in the front (removable) part of the battery box, was the perfect size for the loom i used I also wanted to mount the fuse holder inside the box for that stealth look when it's all buttoned up. I drilled holes in the box for the fuse holder and bolt & nut'd it in place.

And then finished it all off with some color and some bling, that never gets seen...lol
It sits a little crooked now, thats cause the connecter needs to be shapped and massaged to fit on there straight. The battery terminal is not designed to work at a 90* angle like i wanted. So i'll remove that later and grind it into submission.

 

[Solo2Protege]

Then i moved inside to install the LOC and remote turn on module. I started with the RTO. It looks just like a DEI alarm shock sensor, so it's nice and small. I extended the wires and then with some sticky sided velcro, i slapped it on the side of the vent.

I never use T-Taps and hate them to death, but i cut one corner this time. I felt, since it was temp and an aftermarket HU will go in, the T-Taps would do less damage than soldering the wires...Anyway, i grounded both the LOC and RTOM to the same screw on the radio chassis. (the pic shows just one tho) I snaked it down the factory sleeve and used 1/4" split loom on the RCA cables. I like to route wires and such as much with the factory ones as i can. I mounted the LOC with the same velcro on the side of the vent opposite the RTOM.

Next time, PART 2
1. new front door speakers / tweeters / Xovers
2. new speaker wire
3. new rear door speakers
4. new speaker wire

 

[mazpro]

looks good. all the wiring came out very clean, looks stock.

 

[Solo2Protege]

looks good. all the wiring came out very clean, looks stock.

thanks!

 

[tsunami]

clean.... very nice... will post pics of mine hopefully before the weekend should be able to finish it up and change my oil over the next two days...

 

[Solo2Protege]

thanks, cool man hurra up and post!

 

[Solo2Protege]

Updated 8-28-2005 >>> Part 1.5

PART 1.5

Well, i had a little time this afternoon to get a start on part 2, although got cut short due to re-thinking and re-planing. So this is PART 1.5

I pulled the door panel off and yanked outthe doorjamb loom and plug. Just as i feared, no easy acess to running new wires. And the way it gets into the door is rather strange...it's almost like a good hack job...lol

I only pulled the plug on the passenger side, (you'll need a pick tool set for this) but it did have plenty of open slots to drill out and feed new speaker wire through no problem. I did this exact same thing on my Protege, but wasn't all that keen on doing it on my new 3...so i cheesed out and re-used the OEM speaker wires...this is where my re-think/re-plan stopped me...but now i think i'm just gonna drill it out, and run new wires. I haven't opened the drivers side yet, so there may be alot less open slots to drill out (i may go look at that in a few and come back with an edit)

I pulled the triangle tweeter panels, the stock tweeter is just pressure clipped in. Now i have 2 sets of tweeters i can use, both DEI brand, but one is small enough to fit without touching anything, just a bead of silicone to keep it in place for good. The other tweeter is a better one, but much bigger. and the best way to mount it is the metal of the door behind the tweeter grille. The downfall is that it sits about 1/2" away from the actual grille, so that not be so good sound wise... (up pops the re-think/re-plan again)

So while i contemplate a new plan of attack, i figured i better do something, since i got the dang door panels off and all...so i slapped in the 6.5". I got these adapter plates off ebay, (obvious DIY, but never mentioned in auction) but they worked out ok. I removed the weather guard off the OEM speaker (it's on with a sticky but loose adhesive) and stuck it to the adapter plate and then slapped the plate to the door. I cut the OEM wires and soldered on my own.

I forgot to get 2 sets of adapter plates (DOH!) so i didn't do the rears yet...just wasn't meant to be today...lol

On with the pics!!

I wish i had more time to have completed all this today...but it'll give me some time to plan it out, now that i know exactly what i'm dealing with.

EDIT: just went out and pulled the drivers side doorjamb plug, and just as i thought, there's alot less to work with. BUT, it is possible to get 2 sets of wires through there to be able to mount the crossovers inside the car. Which i very much prefer.

I also just pulled the rear doorjamb plugs, there are a few open slots to get a wire through, Still gotta drill, but it's possible.


here are a few pics of the rear doorjamb plugs.

Ideally, i'd LOVE to get ahold of all 4 doorjamb plugs and a good amount of harness still attached. I could swap wires into the plugs using the correct pins and everything for a totally OEM custom job...but fat chance of that ever happening...but i can still dream


NEXT TIME:
- complete PART 2
tweeters + wires + rear speakers

Coming up later:
PART 3
- amprack/subwoofer enclosure (this is gonna be a good one!)

 

[tsunami]

yeah the drivers side is a bit more tight... i have 16 awg run through mine... it was not fun... there was a lot less room on the drivers side to work with so i ended up taking the door completely off the car... was actually easier then it sounds... also the edges of the stamp where you pull the plugs through is sharp as hell i used a piece of duct tape to protect the wires from getting cut after i cut one... when i went to the dealership to get a new metal clip they end up giving you one already crimped with the wire on it... it was 2$ i believe so if you are thinking about using the clips in the empty slots it wouldn't be to bad... but i couldn't find that style of clip anywhere and i work with stuff kinda like that...

 

[Solo2Protege]

yeah the drivers side is a bit more tight... i have 16 awg run through mine... it was not fun... there was a lot less room on the drivers side to work with so i ended up taking the door completely off the car... was actually easier then it sounds... also the edges of the stamp where you pull the plugs through is sharp as hell i used a piece of duct tape to protect the wires from getting cut after i cut one... when i went to the dealership to get a new metal clip they end up giving you one already crimped with the wire on it... it was 2$ i believe so if you are thinking about using the clips in the empty slots it wouldn't be to bad... but i couldn't find that style of clip anywhere and i work with stuff kinda like that...

ya, i cut the the protectant on a wire as i pulled it through.

Really, only $2...can you give me some more details, like a part number or anything specific to ask for.

thanks.

 

[tsunami]

i will look to see if i still have the reciept, i just took the metal clip i had pushed out of the plastic connector and they had these kits, the guy just opened up this kit and found the same size, it was 1.95... it came with around a 3" lead on it...

 

[Solo2Protege]

cool thanks...i'll need 24 of them! Hopefully they have both male and female pins. ~$50 for them is well worth it, IMHO.

 

[tsunami]

i would think so...

i looked through my car and didn't see the reciept... i have one more place to look though... you deffinatly need to bring one in though, there are a lot of them and they all look pretty close to the same size,

 

[Solo2Protege]

PART 1.5.1
Adding wires/pins to the OEM doorplugs


Well, i finally got around to checking out whether the Wires and pins from the Protege plug would fit the plugs in the Mazda3...I know it's been forever and a day and i'm still rolling stooge with a 98% stock system...shame on me

Well, much to my suprise and joy, THEY FIT!!!!

I had to crimp the wires a little tighter on the pins, as the square holes where alittle smaller on the MZ3 plug, as the open slots where not made for 16awg wire, and the crimp of the metal was different, so it needed some modifying

but after that, all it took was a little pushing and pulling and it was locked in place.

The female pin was easier than the male pin. I had to use needle nose pliers and pull the male pins to lock in. The hard part was the plug was extremely tight and it only gave me a certain angle to work with...luckily it was a good angle

^^ Male Plug

^^ Female Plug

It only took me about 25-30 mins to pull the all the pins out of the Protege plug, pull apart the MZ3 B pillars and install in both rear doors. All i need to do now is solder on my new speaker wires and i have a new clean and OEM install.

The pick tools pictured will make pulling the pins out of the plug a snap. It litterally takes 1 second to unlock em and pull em out.

The pic with the red box, shows the Protege male pins locked in place. They are about 1/16" shorter than the MZ3 pins, but still make full contact with the female pin in the other plug. Even if the male pins are shorter, they are still connecting to their Protege female counterparts, so it's still a full contact connection. The female Protege pins fit into the other MZ3 plug just like the others, was a perfect fit. That pic did not come out very good, so i'll post that when i do the front doors this week.

 

[chuyler1]

That takes patience and dedication. Me? I just took my drill and hollowed out an area composed of 4 empty slots in the harness. It was just enough room to send in two sets of speaker wires.

 

[Solo2Protege]

hahhaa, ya that works too...but if you notice the dates of my other posts, i'm not moving along too quickly...lol at me... so i've had plenty of time to think about stuff and locate/gather my parts.

sucks to be so busy...

 

[tsunami]

That takes patience and dedication. Me? I just took my drill and hollowed out an area composed of 4 empty slots in the harness. It was just enough room to send in two sets of speaker wires.

did the same thing here... and on the rears looks like there is a lot more room on the plugs as it appears to be the same size as the fronts just only half the wires...

 

[chuyler1]

pfft. rears. I haven't even pulled my rear door panels off.

 

[tsunami]

me neither was just comenting on the pics...

 

[Solo2Protege]

did the same thing here... and on the rears looks like there is a lot more room on the plugs as it appears to be the same size as the fronts just only half the wires...

the rear plugs are little smaller, but still room to drill out if desired.

after seeing how easy it really was and for a $5 j/y harness, it's easily affordable. Just takes a little patience, but very little time