Must stop the knocking!!!
- Thread starter twintrbo
- Start date
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- 2010 Mazda5 GT
Yes. For the rear only.
Have you read the TSB I linked to earlier? The part numbers and descriptions for the TSB are listed at the end.
I'm putting together a parts order. Does anyone have any idea why the rear spring seat part number referenced in the TSB (c2Y6-28-012, $30.87) is way more expensive than the spring seat that comes up as a direct replacement part? I'm using the parts diagrams from various sources and it even has a different number(BP4K-28-012A, $8.12).
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Because of this...
You WANT the revised one. My rear end was not making any noises (knock on wood) but I figure I'm nearing 80K and since everything is apart during the CO install (top of the YS springs are wound and seat in the perch like OE springs), why not?.. No noises still (knock on wood).
As a easy way of eliminating both bushings AND end links as possible culprits, disconnect both of them, zip tie them down, and go for a drive. You just might like it
You WANT the revised one. My rear end was not making any noises (knock on wood) but I figure I'm nearing 80K and since everything is apart during the CO install (top of the YS springs are wound and seat in the perch like OE springs), why not?.. No noises still (knock on wood).
As a easy way of eliminating both bushings AND end links as possible culprits, disconnect both of them, zip tie them down, and go for a drive. You just might like it
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I wonder if those seats are the cause of the creaking noise I get when I come to a stop. At 160k it might be worth upgrading.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
It seems there are THREE of the same (sorta) part numbers! Same in terms of fitment and purpose but VERY different cost structure and design.
BP4K-28-012A this is the original inferior piece that came with <10 cars. (~$6)
c2Y6-28-012 this is the revised part Mazda added to the TSB. (~$22)
C27328012C this is the OE part for >12 cars. It looks IDENTICAL to the revised TSB part but cost half the amount. I bought this one. (~$13)
Do part# search on Wholesalemazdaparts.com. The revised TSB part, while it exists, has NO details attached to it?
It seems parts for the gen 1 car just cost more for no reason! This just gave me deja vu
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...0-vs-12-individual-component-costs&highlight=
Im guessing the original part# and revised TSB part# are technically for an older generation car so they dont cross reference the parts to the newer car you end up paying more. That said, I must put the disclaimer that using the >12 part on a <10 car is at your own peril (rolleyes).
BP4K-28-012A this is the original inferior piece that came with <10 cars. (~$6)
c2Y6-28-012 this is the revised part Mazda added to the TSB. (~$22)
C27328012C this is the OE part for >12 cars. It looks IDENTICAL to the revised TSB part but cost half the amount. I bought this one. (~$13)
Do part# search on Wholesalemazdaparts.com. The revised TSB part, while it exists, has NO details attached to it?
It seems parts for the gen 1 car just cost more for no reason! This just gave me deja vu
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...0-vs-12-individual-component-costs&highlight=
Im guessing the original part# and revised TSB part# are technically for an older generation car so they dont cross reference the parts to the newer car you end up paying more. That said, I must put the disclaimer that using the >12 part on a <10 car is at your own peril (rolleyes).
If it started happening in the recent days (dry cold weather) I highly suspect dry grease: either dry in the bushing or dry in the end links. But I have no idea what sounds you are hearing so it could be anything..
I agree, really weird part numbers. I will probably go to '12+ spec. Someone posted that here and had no issues with updating everything.
The noise is epic, sounds like someone drumming underneath the car with open end wrenches. Bushings and end links are not dry for sure. I would be really surprised if the noise went away but why waste money if I can find out 100%?
The noise is epic, sounds like someone drumming underneath the car with open end wrenches. Bushings and end links are not dry for sure. I would be really surprised if the noise went away but why waste money if I can find out 100%?
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- 2008 Mazda5 Touring
Ditto. Moog I think is what I last replaced with. Bought 2 and been a couple years with no issues.
OEM is the same price as Delco so now I'm torn lol In fact, now I'm going to try putting the OEM 5 ones back in to confirm its the links and not the bushings. I know its a different stud size but its temporary. The bar did not seem loose however, but at this point, I'm open to any scenario. I may look into the warranty considering I paid almost $60 for them and got 6 months out of it. It was weird having it drive so much quieter and that made me mad I put it off for so long, just been busy to look at it and we dont drive enough for it to get too annoying on short hops.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Until you’ve narrowed it down, you shouldn’t jump to the conclusion that it is the links. It could be your bushing or grease <- I suspect this. I don’t think the links endure much stress that would prematurely wear them out.
I’ve had my rear Moogs setup (with Prothane bushing/bracket + superlube grease) for 15 mon/16K and it has held up so far. I will say the outer coating on the Moogs are completely covered in surface rust. Looks ugly but that’s mostly superficial…
I’ve had my rear Moogs setup (with Prothane bushing/bracket + superlube grease) for 15 mon/16K and it has held up so far. I will say the outer coating on the Moogs are completely covered in surface rust. Looks ugly but that’s mostly superficial…
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
The worn sway bar bushings make the front end sound like it is going to fall off with every bump. It gets more noticeable in colder weather, when the rubber is cold and shrunken up. This allows more play for the bar to flop and slide side to side whenever torsion is applied to 1 side of the bar.
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
What he said^^^ I have been leaving mine to sit and driving my old Subaru to work because I can't bear to listen to it. Even minor road imperfections get telegraphed into the cabin, and God forbid a big pothole, it sounds as though the strut has been torn from its moorings. This is with brand new Koni Sport dampers mind you. My ill-concieved notion that running a 45 series tire on this car was a good idea will not be getting repeated, I assure you.
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
If you already have the poly bushings in place, I would keep them. I would just get in the habit of greasing them with every oil change since you are under the car anyway.
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- mazda5 GT 2009
I have a mazda 5 2009 with 66666 miles on it and i have the front knocking sound going on. Where is the best place online to get OEM front sway bar bushings? Is there really an upgraded OEM FSB bushing for 2009 models and how do i know if what i am buying is upgraded? Thanks
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