~MSP~ SPEAKER SYSTEM ?'s

MazdaSpeedSter said:
^ ~Ay~ "Precisely"

Anyone might happen to know where I can get those JL 8" 4ohm speaker people are talking about and the name and stuff so I can go shopping... I want to have two and bridge them off the stock amp... Any one think that'd be ok Will it thump pretty good I have boxes to put them in already... Thanks for any help...(2thumbs)
Talk to Javier he has one. Ive been in his car a couple times and it hits pretty good.
 
Been checking the setting on the radio and I have a question, but I dont want to start a new post just for that. The lowest "Bass Center Frequency" is 60HZ and the lowest "Low-Pass Filter" is 50HZ. My question is, if the LPF is set to the lowest setting (50HZ), how can you adjust the "Bass Center Frequency" because even at the lowest setting (60HZ) youre losing some frequency because of the filter. What would be the best setting !?

Thanks
 
I believe the Bass center frequency if for the outputs to your midrange speakers, and the Non-fading low-pass filter is for your preamp subwoofer output. So the NF filter adjusts the output going out the RCA to your amp and is a totally separate entity from the Bass center frequency. I would keep the Bass center frequency to 60hz and you can adjust the NF LPF according to the music you listen to. Factory setting for that one is 80HZ. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that is right.
 
jurgs01 said:
That just is the max power it is able to put out. There is an optimal frequency with an optimal ohmage load that will deliver that amount of power. 99.99% of the time it is not putting out that power, but it can. I don't mean to argue with you guys, but electronic is my life (besides messing with my car, gambling, golfing and ******* it is what I have the most fun doing).
Are you guys sre you re even arguing, It seems like everyone is saying the same thing, tecnicalities aside.

RMS has another aspect that is being neglected here. THD. The kenwood head unit will only produce a consistant power of 22 watts per channel at 1% distortion. Yes with much more distortion at a single frequency and impedance (even if a speaker never shows that impedance at a any frequency) the unit is capable of 50 watts for a short time.

However, these spec's can and are screwed in about 1000 ways including, voltage, impedance, and distrotion levels. This is where knowing the car audio industry and its various brand reputations come into play. This is why CEA2006 has become a big issue as of late. Both the 22x4 and the 50x4 are marketing watts, they aren't typicly even realistic. Hell for all we know the 50x4 power rating was measured at the units peak input voltage of 16 volts powering a 2 ohm resistor at 20% THD before it exploded and took someones eye out (headshake

The main thing I was orginaly disagreeing with was that you said,

"Nothing is rated in full bandwidth power, everthing is compared at max power."

When in car audio that is indeed the most common unit of comparison. Also the comments about frequency ( bandwidth) are hard to understand as it seems that you are saying that a devices bandwidth (atleast as the user is using it) is un-improtant. To me the needed bandwidth is the only area is which a meausrement is relavent.

Another thing to keep in mind here is that technical descriptions are only good to a point in consumer electronics as 99.9% of consumers will not know or understand alot of the terminology, and certianly not the math, laws, theories and equations. I am sure you and servo could go indepth far over my head in that areana if need be as both of you guys have high levels of seducations but that are points when klnowing enough will get you buy so to speak. For instance what was the concept of the atom when electricity was first utilized by man? Since then we have come along way in our understanding of electricity and the atom yet the observations ( even though based on not 100% correct information as we know it today) were correct enough to be succesful. Its also like the saying "knows enough to be dangerous". SOmetimes its best to leave concepts out of various peoples hands, I am reminded of the women that formatted her hard drive becuase here printer stopped working. Sure the previous problem that was causeing the printer not to work is gone, but so is everything else.

To sum it up, Guys like Servo and you get to know the most indepth mathmatics behind electronics, the rest of us use various levels of dumbed down explinations that although might not be technicly accurate all the time, they are typicly correct in a broad sense most of the time.
 
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jurgs01 said:
I believe the Bass center frequency if for the outputs to your midrange speakers, and the Non-fading low-pass filter is for your preamp subwoofer output. So the NF filter adjusts the output going out the RCA to your amp and is a totally separate entity from the Bass center frequency. I would keep the Bass center frequency to 60hz and you can adjust the NF LPF according to the music you listen to. Factory setting for that one is 80HZ. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that is right.
The bass center frequency is the Fq that will be cut or boosted by the bass adjustament to all preouts and speakers. Which is why I hate it (bike)

Your dead on for the NF level, it will only effect the level ( all of it) to the subwoofer preout.
 
my amp isn't powering my speakers? i took my stock sub enclosure out a long time ago, and left the amp in.... i didn't have to do that? i can take out the amp? someone please respond or a simple PM with a yes you're right or no keep the amp would be helpful thanks kindly
 
sickspeed94 said:
my amp isn't powering my speakers? i took my stock sub enclosure out a long time ago, and left the amp in.... i didn't have to do that? i can take out the amp? someone please respond or a simple PM with a yes you're right or no keep the amp would be helpful thanks kindly
The amplifier only powers the stock subwoofer. It in no way is connected to anything else.

The kenwood head unit powers the 4 door speakers.
 
thank you so much, i can rip that MF out now, when i get the car back of corse, thanks again it was becomgiona REAL PAIN!
 
Yeah!!!! Just rip that P.O.S. amp out!!!! Just take the fuse out of the battery so you don't cause a fire!!!(flame)
 
~No. That can stay there. Just the one on the power wire, near the battery. It should be a 20 fuse I think. It's like a few inches from the battery. You'll see it...
 
1sty said:
The bass center frequency is the Fq that will be cut or boosted by the bass adjustament to all preouts and speakers. Which is why I hate it (bike)

Your dead on for the NF level, it will only effect the level ( all of it) to the subwoofer preout.
But the bass center frequency isnt supposed to be played by the mid range speaker, at least not too many. Also, when I adjust my bass center frequency the sound coming from the SUB changes so it does affect it too, but if you cut out the BASS with the LPF youre missing a lot of frequencies from the SUB because the LPF can go lower than the bass center frequency (dunno) !!??? Should we set the LPF higher than the bass center frequency !?
 
Think of the center frequency as a graphic EQ. Thing is, in the end, it's only a three band EQ...but you get the set the freq. center that you can boost / cut from. The thing is, yes it does affect all the speakers when you change the bass center freq. and make a boost/cut in the bass level...even the sub.

I mean, unless you've cut the frequencies going to the front and rear (which you can), such that they aren't getting sound that low, then you're adding a bass boost or cut to that at that center frequency. It's not a very good boost or cut, and while it changes the overall sound, it adds distortion. That's why I run everything on my headunit flat (bass, mid, treb all set to 0). I simply use the NF level to sub volume, and that's it. :)
 
servoeyes said:
Think of the center frequency as a graphic EQ. Thing is, in the end, it's only a three band EQ...but you get the set the freq. center that you can boost / cut from. The thing is, yes it does affect all the speakers when you change the bass center freq. and make a boost/cut in the bass level...even the sub.

I mean, unless you've cut the frequencies going to the front and rear (which you can), such that they aren't getting sound that low, then you're adding a bass boost or cut to that at that center frequency. It's not a very good boost or cut, and while it changes the overall sound, it adds distortion. That's why I run everything on my headunit flat (bass, mid, treb all set to 0). I simply use the NF level to sub volume, and that's it. :)
I understand that, but what about the filter ? the front and back filters are for the high frequency but the only filter that affect the SUB is the LPF (well I think) and it can go lower than the center bass frequency. So if you set the LFP lower than the center bass freq youre missing a lot of frequency that goes to the SUB; am I right on that ? Also, the front and back high pass filter are for the front and back speakers respectively !? What about the tweeters !? Is there a plug behind the HU for them that have a default HPF on it !? Thanks :)
 
Wingman21 said:
I understand that, but what about the filter ? the front and back filters are for the high frequency but the only filter that affect the SUB is the LPF (well I think) and it can go lower than the center bass frequency. So if you set the LFP lower than the center bass freq youre missing a lot of frequency that goes to the SUB; am I right on that ? Also, the front and back high pass filter are for the front and back speakers respectively !? What about the tweeters !? Is there a plug behind the HU for them that have a default HPF on it !? Thanks :)
Right right...I wasn't getting what you meant. You're right, but I just wouldn't set the LPF that low for the stock Kenwood sub. Then you're missing a lot of frequencies in general. It's only a cheap-o 8" sub, so it's not gonna be great in the sub 50hz range. I forget what the exact settnigs are but put it up around 100hz to get the most use out of it. It'll fill out the rest of the range of music that the other speakers aren't getting that way.

As for the HPF and LPF, the LPF works on the rear, the 2 HPFs work on the fronts (which have the tweeters paralleled in) and the rears, as labeled. The tweeters have a capacitor on them to block lower frequencies so they're fine...actaully, I think the system sounds better with them out, to be honest. Anywho, I would set the HPF, near the LPF. That way the fall off from your fronts and rears blends into the sub. That should give you the most full sound.
 
Something to keep in mind wingman is that the center frequency is simply the frequency that will be boosted or cut the most, those frequencies around it, at 6 or 12 db per octive, are all also boosted. So if you boost and the center is at 80hz then 50 hz is boosted as well, just not as much. Like wise 120 hz is also boosted.
 
servoeyes said:
Right right...I wasn't getting what you meant. You're right, but I just wouldn't set the LPF that low for the stock Kenwood sub. Then you're missing a lot of frequencies in general. It's only a cheap-o 8" sub, so it's not gonna be great in the sub 50hz range. I forget what the exact settnigs are but put it up around 100hz to get the most use out of it. It'll fill out the rest of the range of music that the other speakers aren't getting that way.

As for the HPF and LPF, the LPF works on the rear, the 2 HPFs work on the fronts (which have the tweeters paralleled in) and the rears, as labeled. The tweeters have a capacitor on them to block lower frequencies so they're fine...actaully, I think the system sounds better with them out, to be honest. Anywho, I would set the HPF, near the LPF. That way the fall off from your fronts and rears blends into the sub. That should give you the most full sound.
Cool... Thanks bro(cool) !!!

1sty said:
Something to keep in mind wingman is that the center frequency is simply the frequency that will be boosted or cut the most, those frequencies around it, at 6 or 12 db per octive, are all also boosted. So if you boost and the center is at 80hz then 50 hz is boosted as well, just not as much. Like wise 120 hz is also boosted.
Yeah, but if you play with the Q Factor you can adjust the bell centered on that frequency. By the way, is the Q Factor the only part that youre cutting or boosting or it is also a kind of filter !? Like if I set the Q to 2 (thin bell) than the setting that Ill set for that frequency range will only affect that region and the region outside will be cut (or playing default) !?
 

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