MSP oil pressure install

[P5 Rally]

first off go with ss if ur gonna use adapters.....I've got SS and nothing has happened and never will cuz they r good for about 6000 psi
second.....A member from the Toronto Protege Club tried using a filter adapter.....well, certain factory parts didnt allow for a simpler install and he had to completely forget about it.

 

[CarlM2]

I have not installed an Autometer sender or gauge but I have installed a 0-80psi VDO sender and gauge. The way I have it working is that I bought a sending unit that has a low pressure contact point and the correct thread pitch. I wired the contact to the stock wiring harness and ran the regulating pressure wire to the gauge. (Power for the gauge light is from the fuse box) This solution means no 'T' or other adaptor and is a lot cleaner.

I buy sending units in quantity and have them custom cut to BSP for a kit I make. I can get 0-80 or 0-100 psi sending units but there's no point in getting more than 0-80 since that part of the oil system will not get higher than that.

If 5 or so people are interested, I can buy the sending units, gauges, or both. If you're interested, PM me. The sending units will be around $50 shipped and I don't remember what the gauges are... but if there's interest, I'll find out.

-Carl

I edited this because I checked my prices and they were a bit higher than I thought.

 

[flat_black]

BSP sending units for 0-100PSI? Nice! Gimme one! =)

 

[MetalSpeed]

any pics of the install?

 

[Kooldino]

I found a place that sells the Stainless Steel adapters that are needed for the oil pressure gauge.

Got to www.mcmaster.com

Search for the following part numbers on the site


part # 48805K97 is a SS "T" that has 3 1/8" NPT female sides for use with the male nipple adapter.

Good find, but why not use a cross so you can keep the stock sender too?

PN = 48805K62

 

[CarlM2]

I had one person contact me with interest so I haven't ordered any for the MSP installation. Also, I haven't taken any photos... sorry.

I did have to re-tighten the sending unit.... it dripped a small amount. It's tough to get up in there.... You need a crow's foot and a long extension to get it as tight as needed. No drip now.

-C

 

[PGFracing]

I don't get why the simple way to do this is just replace the stock sender with an oil pressure sender straight to a guage. Am I missing something?

 

[II-Savy]

I don't get why the simple way to do this is just replace the stock sender with an oil pressure sender straight to a guage. Am I missing something?

Yes you are....The autometer sending unit is American. Our foriegn(sp) cars take a different thread. You need an adapter.

 

[PGFracing]

Why do you need an adapter, just buy a metric oil pressure sender that does light and gauge, unless I'm still missing something.

 

[II-Savy]

Why do you need an adapter, just buy a metric oil pressure sender that does light and gauge, unless I'm still missing something.

They don't make multiple sizes of oil senders that the gauges understand. They make adapters so that one sender can mount on any car.

 

[PGFracing]

Well I did some checking and a lot of this info is not quite right. It is 1/8 pipe thread. Nearly all Mazda's use the same part. They stay normally closed and kick the light on when 3-5psi. You can use the Nissan part which uses the same thread and it will kick your light on at 3-9psi, which gives you a lot more safety. You can also buy an easy install kit that is 1/8 thread and put it up against any oil pressure gauge you want. If you really want a warning system a light or sound device is much better than a pressure gauge that won't grab your attention, the best of both worlds would be a gauge that lights at certain pressures or sounds, but I don't know of any that have warning sets, but haven't looked yet. The CarQuest part # for the Nissan version is PS171X the Mazda version which our cars have is PS160X. The easy install kit is under $10 and you could put that with any gauge of your choice, I believe. If you want a cheaper gauge just get rid of the X which stands for Premium.

 

[II-Savy]

Well I did some checking and a lot of this info is not quite right. It is 1/8 pipe thread. Nearly all Mazda's use the same part. They stay normally closed and kick the light on when 3-5psi. You can use the Nissan part which uses the same thread and it will kick your light on at 3-9psi, which gives you a lot more safety. You can also buy an easy install kit that is 1/8 thread and put it up against any oil pressure gauge you want. If you really want a warning system a light or sound device is much better than a pressure gauge that won't grab your attention, the best of both worlds would be a gauge that lights at certain pressures or sounds, but I don't know of any that have warning sets, but haven't looked yet. The CarQuest part # for the Nissan version is PS171X the Mazda version which our cars have is PS160X. The easy install kit is under $10 and you could put that with any gauge of your choice, I believe. If you want a cheaper gauge just get rid of the X which stands for Premium.

ALL of the info is right. I said the stock sender is useless with a gauge on ther....you don't need it. I also said it throws a ground at 5psi. Which it does. An idiot light is unneccessary in addition to the gauge. You will be able to watch the pressure decrease from 30 or so all the way down. Trust me I saw it do exactly that. In addition you can always keep the stock one on if you choose. You just need a T adapter. The sender you mention will not show pressure. That's not what stock senders do. They warn when a predetermined pressure is reached.

 

[evolv]

ALL of the info is right. I said the stock sender is useless with a gauge on ther....you don't need it. I also said it throws a ground at 5psi. Which it does. An idiot light is unneccessary in addition to the gauge. You will be able to watch the pressure decrease from 30 or so all the way down. Trust me I saw it do exactly that. In addition you can always keep the stock one on if you choose. You just need a T adapter. The sender you mention will not show pressure. That's not what stock senders do. They warn when a predetermined pressure is reached.

Exactly

I chose to use the stock sender idiot light in addition to the oil P guage because I liked the idea of having both. Nothing like added protection if it costs nothing.

Just follow my diagram back on page one if you want both the guage and idiot light to function.

 

[PGFracing]

The information that said it's not pipe thread that it's foreign thread is incorrect. Also there seems to be some that have a problem with the T's breaking so it makes much more sense to have a direct fit, forget the idiot light and run a guage, you don't need a sender just a gauge that will take a direct pressure line, or you could run the Nissan Sender which will flip the oil light on nearly twice as quick as the Mazda one. Either way you avoid the potential of a T-breaking and you have an improved warning system, which is the goal.

 

[II-Savy]

The information that said it's not pipe thread that it's foreign thread is incorrect. Also there seems to be some that have a problem with the T's breaking so it makes much more sense to have a direct fit, forget the idiot light and run a guage, you don't need a sender just a gauge that will take a direct pressure line, or you could run the Nissan Sender which will flip the oil light on nearly twice as quick as the Mazda one. Either way you avoid the potential of a T-breaking and you have an improved warning system, which is the goal.

True you don't need a sender for the mechanical type of oil pressure gauges, but who wants an oil line running into the car? Call the thread what you want, it still needs an adapter to mate up to an antometer sender.

 

[MetalSpeed]

True you don't need a sender for the mechanical type of oil pressure gauges, but who wants an oil line running into the car? Call the thread what you want, it still needs an adapter to mate up to an antometer sender.

Yea then you take the chance of something happening to the line and then you have oil all in your dash and car.

 

[II-Savy]

Yea then you take the chance of something happening to the line and then you have oil all in your dash and car.

Exactly. I'd rather run a WIRE into the interior of the car.

 

[MetalSpeed]

Where do you tap into the engine block with the nipple? Anybody have pics? Looked under the car when I was putting my rear AWR MM and couldn't see anything that I would tap into.

 

[PGFracing]

I'll try to snap a pic tonight.

 

[PGFracing]

Here Ya Go