Do u still have stock internals??????
I run 5w30 Royal Purple, used Castrol Syntec in the past. Never had problems, but car seems to run better on the Purple.
I was always nervous about changin the oil weight, i would hav no clue what i was doin.
MSP motor oil weight options!!!!
- Thread starter Speed3.5
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Do u still have stock internals??????
I run 5w30 Royal Purple, used Castrol Syntec in the past. Never had problems, but car seems to run better on the Purple.
I was always nervous about changin the oil weight, i would hav no clue what i was doin.
I recently had a rebuild done after and read that using syntetic for breaking in an engine isn't a good idea, that's why I currently are running mobil1 10w40 mineral oil (super M)
I do live in the southern part right next to the gulf stream, our average summer temperature is somewhere between 70-85
Usually we get 10w40 blend or 5w50 syntetic. I haven't checked it out in detail, but most popular is mobil1, valvoline, Castrol and esso.
I plan to use 5w50 syntetic mobil1 racing formula (at least it says so on the bottle) Would it be wise to just change to that next oilchange and stick to that oil in the future.
And yes, we do have diesel versions here, the 323 was in 2001-03 offered with a rf-tdi engine, 2.0l 101HP - looks like it's using the same intercooler as the MSP.
Hey everyone I found this and read on if you want:
http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml
(don't pay att. to amsoil adv. ,look at mobil 1 performance/durability/result)
Isbre - Well on gasoline synthetic is preferred for best performance and durability on the other side the diesel engines get dirty faster unlike the gasoline ones , you know, so synthetic or not it won't make huge difference. What does Mazda there recommends ??
Yup to brake in the engine you'll do fine with mineral motor oil.
After that its your choice, your not turbo so synthetic might not be that much of help in general but if you do use synthetic you'll need to change the oil sooner then mineral thats for sure. Mineral will hold longer/better to the dirt then synthetic .
Deal is ; since synthetic is so clean it gets dirty faster as well then mineral one , this is general on diesel cars as far as i can remember/know when i was in Albania.
So its up to you which weight you'll use, either one seems very good choice.
http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml
(don't pay att. to amsoil adv. ,look at mobil 1 performance/durability/result)
Isbre - Well on gasoline synthetic is preferred for best performance and durability on the other side the diesel engines get dirty faster unlike the gasoline ones , you know, so synthetic or not it won't make huge difference. What does Mazda there recommends ??
Yup to brake in the engine you'll do fine with mineral motor oil.
After that its your choice, your not turbo so synthetic might not be that much of help in general but if you do use synthetic you'll need to change the oil sooner then mineral thats for sure. Mineral will hold longer/better to the dirt then synthetic .
Deal is ; since synthetic is so clean it gets dirty faster as well then mineral one , this is general on diesel cars as far as i can remember/know when i was in Albania.
So its up to you which weight you'll use, either one seems very good choice.
MSP2003.5_Nick
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege - Dark Silver
Q horsepower 5w50 FTW, ever since i put it in the car runs like a champ no matter what. I stay away from full synthetics and light oil because it makes everything too slippery if you know what i mean. With a turbo you almost want to slow down the internals from getting too much friction. A good thick oil at operating temps prevents a lot of friction wear. 5w40 or 0w40 is good too. light at startup to get that turbo lubed up!!
You know something is wrong when mazda uses the same oil on the turbo and non turbo version of the block. As soon as you go past stock I'd change the oil to something better suited for what you're doing.
You know something is wrong when mazda uses the same oil on the turbo and non turbo version of the block. As soon as you go past stock I'd change the oil to something better suited for what you're doing.
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OK, I am leaning towards Mobil1 syntetic 5w50 from next oil change and there on.
What do you mean by not being turbo. All diesel engines sold today has a turbo, and besides, why should I even consider taking the turbo off my MSP?
Mazda dealer can't say much about my car since no turbocharged FS based engine was sold in Europe, but they use 5w40(hard to get nowdays) and 5w50 in their FS7G engines.
My question was if I should use one oil change with blend to ease the change from mineral to syntetic, but I think I got that answered?
If I can get the money together I am hoping to go gt28rs with supporting mods in the future, will mobil1 5w50 still be a good choice then?
What do you mean by not being turbo. All diesel engines sold today has a turbo, and besides, why should I even consider taking the turbo off my MSP?
Mazda dealer can't say much about my car since no turbocharged FS based engine was sold in Europe, but they use 5w40(hard to get nowdays) and 5w50 in their FS7G engines.
My question was if I should use one oil change with blend to ease the change from mineral to syntetic, but I think I got that answered?
If I can get the money together I am hoping to go gt28rs with supporting mods in the future, will mobil1 5w50 still be a good choice then?
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What you really need to do is this.
Take your old oil and send it to
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
and have them do an oil analysis based out of the old oil in your engine.
Take your old oil and send it to
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
and have them do an oil analysis based out of the old oil in your engine.
upssssssss , my bad man , totally forgot that diesels come turbo already (doh).
How did you get a MSP over there ??
I thought FS 2.0T were only sold in Japan, Canada, USA and SE ASIA under ford shell body.
Finish your engine brake in with mineral then change to synthetic after there on but make sure you check it every 1000km and check if it gets dark unless you have an idea how sooner to change it compare to mineral oil change time frame.
JDM-SAM : have you ever tested any used brand oil for yourself there ??
What info can you share on those ??
Come in turbo alredy?? Turbos was originally designed for diesel engines, than later converted for gasoline use.
You are correct that we couldn't get the FS-DET engine in Europpean Mazdas, the closest we could get here was the Focus ST.
I bought mine in USA and drove it there for my one semester stay as an exchange student and then imported it to Norway. (Which of course put me back twice of what I paid for the car in the first place - car taxes here are insane!) Car broke down shortly after I imported it and neither the original warranty nor the extended protection plan would help me bacause the car wasn't in North-America when it happened
haven't have the best of luck with my MSP until now, I am hoping that I will not have any more breakdowns in the future, therefore I want to get everything right this time.Recommended oil change interval for cars without service indicator in Europe is:
Mineral: 5000km/6months
Blend: 10000km/1yr
Syntetic: 15000km/1yr
hmm, don't know what to make of that when it comes to oil change interval on my MSP with syntetic oil...
JDM Sam: should I have an analysis done on the current mineral oil or should I maybe wait until it's time to change the syntetic oil I'm going to put in at the next oil change?
Isbre - wait until you do the oil change , get the sample like they tell you to and change the oil completely , if you want do a check up w/ the synthetic as well next time the oil change comes up.
I'm thinking to do this as well.
Edit:
Ok ok, got a bit carried away,
Now that you cleared that your MSP came from USA we can talk much better here.
For MSP - oil change interval is 3000 miles on average drive (50% local/ 50 % highway) or 5000 miles if 90% highway .
Oil recommended is 10w30/5w30 (summer/winter)fully synth. but you have other alt. like 5w40 all year around or 0w40 all year around.
Deff. get the synthetic oil .
Depending on how much drive you do, Its best to change the oil after 3 months not 6months or 1 yr, diesels are much tougher as you know so .........
Side Note: Not all diesels are turbo-ed and I do know that turbos were primary designed for diesels since they were the first to be build then gasoline came along
I'm thinking to do this as well.
Edit:
Ok ok, got a bit carried away,
Now that you cleared that your MSP came from USA we can talk much better here.
For MSP - oil change interval is 3000 miles on average drive (50% local/ 50 % highway) or 5000 miles if 90% highway .
Oil recommended is 10w30/5w30 (summer/winter)fully synth. but you have other alt. like 5w40 all year around or 0w40 all year around.
Deff. get the synthetic oil .
Depending on how much drive you do, Its best to change the oil after 3 months not 6months or 1 yr, diesels are much tougher as you know so .........
Side Note: Not all diesels are turbo-ed and I do know that turbos were primary designed for diesels since they were the first to be build then gasoline came along
You can test your oil whenever you want. Most people do it at the oil change when it drained since thats the best time to collect a sample.
No, I don't really use that lab because I'm not looking to use that info for my engine's condition. Since you guys are worried about using different grades of oil and want to know what each does for your engine, you should use that otherwise you are just speculating.
No, I don't really use that lab because I'm not looking to use that info for my engine's condition. Since you guys are worried about using different grades of oil and want to know what each does for your engine, you should use that otherwise you are just speculating.
Changed the oil yesterday w/ M1 0w40 fully synth.
First start while the car was on the lift , it went smooth, I saw right away the diff. it didn't even went 1.5-1.7k rpm to idle like before w/ 10w30 but only made it to 1.3k rpm and went down to 1.1k rpm and in 1 min it was already in normal working temp.
I did noticed this M1 0w40 fully synth builds more pressure then the M1 10w30 , on idle it was between 35-40 where as 10w30 was at 25-30. even when in drive it is about 10 psi more pressure then 10w30 one.
JDM SAM - How would turbo get affected by this ?? (stock turbo still)
After that i cleaned the batteries terminal then when i started it to leave the driveway it wasn't idling well it was going up and down between 200 - 700 rpm not fast but wasn't stable either.
I drove around the block to check it out , car was running perfect no noise from the engine in particular but the idle wasn't stable and on every stop sign it wanted to shut off.
I'm thinking the ECU must be freaking out ????
UPDATE: after driving the whole day = 40 miles , car is back to normal and it "seems" to be reving just a tad faster or it might be me
Over all it's good, with 10w30 i used to hear kinda grind noise in first engine start up in the morning with 0w40 I don't hear anything like that.
Plus the fans don't turn on as often as before so ..... looking good so far.
First start while the car was on the lift , it went smooth, I saw right away the diff. it didn't even went 1.5-1.7k rpm to idle like before w/ 10w30 but only made it to 1.3k rpm and went down to 1.1k rpm and in 1 min it was already in normal working temp.
I did noticed this M1 0w40 fully synth builds more pressure then the M1 10w30 , on idle it was between 35-40 where as 10w30 was at 25-30. even when in drive it is about 10 psi more pressure then 10w30 one.
JDM SAM - How would turbo get affected by this ?? (stock turbo still)
After that i cleaned the batteries terminal then when i started it to leave the driveway it wasn't idling well it was going up and down between 200 - 700 rpm not fast but wasn't stable either.
I drove around the block to check it out , car was running perfect no noise from the engine in particular but the idle wasn't stable and on every stop sign it wanted to shut off.
I'm thinking the ECU must be freaking out ????
UPDATE: after driving the whole day = 40 miles , car is back to normal and it "seems" to be reving just a tad faster or it might be me
Over all it's good, with 10w30 i used to hear kinda grind noise in first engine start up in the morning with 0w40 I don't hear anything like that.
Plus the fans don't turn on as often as before so ..... looking good so far.
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cougar10agREDUX
Member
- :
- 2003 Protege ES-T
they were originally designed for fighter planes around WWII?? to maintain power output at higher altitudes.
i just purchased some redline 5w30 since the temps dropped. was using redline 10w40 before the turbo. then i forgot or order some more and put in mobil 1 10w30, within the next couple of days the temps dropped 20 degrees. unlucky me. seein 60psi on cold starts, takes a while to drop, unfortunately i'm blowin oil past the turbo seals until the oil warms up
shoulda got a restrictor but it's a journal bearing so **** it.
