MSP motor oil weight options!!!!

Speed3.5

chasing electrons ..
:
16' Mazda3, MSP
Well , I use Mobil 1 10W30 Synth , It still takes time to worm up in the first cold start(summer/winter). Nothing wrong with my engine and it doesn't burn oil at all.

I'm just thinking of changing the weight to get better gass/mile and as well as get good protection at the same time.

Now Mobil 1 synth its good DD oil and I'll be in that category with some spirited drive in between.

From what i've seen I'm looking at Mobil 1 synth 5w40 for summer and 0w30 or 0w40 for winter.

What you guys think/suggest, having experience on race could give you an edge on understanding the weights better then me trying to get win/win solution by just looking at benefits and underestimating the risk/damange those weight could actually do to my engine.

Engine is stock for now.Future promises forged.

Let the Feedbacks roll in , thnx as always in adv.
 
Just add. info from experience.

Tried 0w40 last summer and it went well, engine didn't burn any oil at all but the oil didn't last as long. I had to change it at 2.5k miles and after 2 try out I gave up with M1 0w40 and back to the original M1 10w30 in summer and M1 5w30 for winter.

FYI - the thinner oil tends to get dirtier sooner ex: 0w40>5w30>10w30 , the 10w30 is more resistive then the other two.
 
The type specified by the vehicle manufacturer in your owner's manual. For most passenger car and light truck gasoline engines today, it's any oil that meets the American Petroleum Institutes "SH" rating.
As for the viscosity of oil to use, most new engines today require a multiviscosity 5W-30 oil for all-round driving. The lighter 5W-30 oils contain friction reducing additives that help improve fuel economy, and also allow the oil to quickly reach critical upper valvetrain components when a cold engine is first started. Most engine wear occurs immediately after a cold start, so it's important to have oil that is thin enough to circulate easily -- especially at cold temperatures.
For older engines and ones that are driven at sustained highways speeds during hot weather, 10W-30 or 10W-40 is a good choice. Heavier multiviscosity oils such as 20W-40 are for high rpm, high-load applications primarily and are not recommended for cold weather driving.
Straight weight 30W and 40W oils aren't very popular anymore, but some diehards insist on using them. They say the thicker oil holds up better under high temperature (which it does), increases oil pressure and reduces oil consumption in high mileage engines. But straight 30W and 40W oils are too thick for cold weather and may make an engine hard to start. They may also be too thick to provide adequate start-up lubrication to critical upper valvetrain components during cold weather. So switching to a straight 20W oil would be necessary for cold weather driving. Straight 10W oil can also improve cold starting, but is very thin and should only be used in sub-zero climates. A multiviscosity 10W-30 or 10W-40 will provide the same cold starting benefits of a 10W oil and the high temperature protection of a 30W or 40W oil.
For the ultimate in high temperature protection, durability and all-round performance, synthetic oils are the way to go. Unfortunately, most synthetic oils cost up to three times as much as ordinary petroleum-based oils. They cost more because synthetics are manmade rather than refined from petroleum. But this improves their performance in virtually every aspect:
* Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications.
* Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.
* Better engine performance. Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts, which improves fuel economy, cuts frictional horsepower losses and helps the engine run cooler. The difference isn't great, but it can make a noticeable difference.
* Longer oil change intervals. Because synthetics resist oxidation and viscosity breakdown better than ordinary motor oils, some suppliers say oil change intervals can be safely extended -- in some cases stretched to as much as 25,000 miles. Such claims are justified by the fact that synthetics don't break down or sludge up as fast as ordinary mineral-based oils do in use.
CAUTION: For vehicles under warranty, extending the normal change interval is not recommended because failing to follow the OEM's maintenance schedule can void your warranty.
Synthetics are available in the same grades as ordinary motor oils (5W-30, 5W-20 and 10W-30) as well as "extended" grades such as 15W-50 and even 5W-50.
There are also lower-cost synthetic "blends" that combine synthetic and petroleum-based oils in the same container. But you can do your own blend to save money by simply substituting a quart or two of synthetic oil for conventional oil when you change oil. Synthetics are compatible with conventional motor oils.
Who should use a synthetic oil? The premium-priced oil is best for:
o Turbocharged or supercharged engines
o Performance or high output engines
o Vehicles used for towing (especially during hot weather)
o Vehicles that are operated in extremely cold or hot climates
o Anyone who wants the ultimate in lubrication and protection
 
I just logged 3000 miles on my 2010 M3 S-GT HB 2.5 NON-TURBO and I traded in my 2008 M3 and at 10K I switched to Mobill1 and it seemed to run fine , NOw that I have invested in the latest and greatest that Mazda has , and believe me there is a major improvment all the way around , I want to upgrade to Synthetic also at 10k after a GOOD break-in . So I called Mazda multiple times - and the standard reply is - The car is NOT designed to run on synthetic and we reccomend against it , however if you do - use the correct viscosity and remember that if there is any major warrany issue with the engine you may not be covered??? This seems ridiculous - Synthetic is better all the way around , why would they do this ---for the money savings ?? to say services "cost less" What Up !! anybody ???
 
Hmmm, don't know the policy of dealers, they are becoming more tight then ever so ....

If you don't have turbo engine then Synthetic oil is not necessary, use regular or semi-synthetic.

Whats your reason for wanting to use synthetic in a non-turbo engine ?
 
Synthetic oil is generally a better choice on any motor, turbo or not. You can debate the cost/benefit based on your driving habits, etc, but it's synthetic is typically going to be better for the motor. Though, only the occasional UOA can show it conclusively in one case or another.

Mazda's reasoning for not recommending synthetic is that they have not specifically tested the motor to run on synthetic oil. You'll get the same answer if you ask about ANY part or fluid not specifically called out in the owners manual or service manual, and it makes complete sense when you think about it from Mazda's standpoint. In today's sue-happy world, if you designed and tested the motor to work with a specific type, grade and viscosity of motor oil, you're not going to open yourself up to the potential for liability by officially recommending the use of anything other than that specific motor oil. These kinds of recommendations are made by lawyers and accountants, NOT by engineers, so take them as such.
 
Hmmm, don't know the policy of dealers, they are becoming more tight then ever so ....

If you don't have turbo engine then Synthetic oil is not necessary, use regular or semi-synthetic.

Whats your reason for wanting to use synthetic in a non-turbo engine ?

Well - I am not planning on driving the car excessively hard , nor do I abuse it so......I only wanted to use Synthetic since I guess I have been brainwashed into believing that its going to #1 deliver better lubrication on start-up therby reducing engine wear, #2 get better oil pressure overall #3 get better protection under harsh stop and go conditions and in general, #4 Longer periods between oil changes . #5 Just wanted to use whats considered to be state of the art lubrication in a 21 century automobile that apparently yields better gas mileage also ? So am I wrong -- I am aware that Mazda does test these 2.5s only with dino oil so me not being an engineer I must deffer and go with what they reccomend and will just change it every 3K .? I just figured that it would help not hurt , but clearly there will be different lubrication specs in different areas of the engine which could possibly cause it to act differently that intended ---If I do I will wait til my 7 year 100K extended warranty expires or I go over 100K -- should be fine- Thanks
 
Yeah, everyone wants the best but keep this in mind, best is meant for the best conditions where its applied so stock engine won't see much of difference because its engineered to work even with crappiest oil thats out there, car manuf. have factored in that non-turbo/pricier cars tend to use lower grade oil so you don't have to worry.

FYI- I would suggest staying away from the idea of extending the oil change interval unless you do highway miles.
 
Yeah, everyone wants the best but keep this in mind, best is meant for the best conditions where its applied so stock engine won't see much of difference because its engineered to work even with crappiest oil thats out there, car manuf. have factored in that non-turbo/pricier cars tend to use lower grade oil so you don't have to worry.

FYI- I would suggest staying away from the idea of extending the oil change interval unless you do highway miles.


No worries there --that was only a talking point as to ONE of the possible reasons/benifits to switching to SYN oil . I dont have the wherewithall to let my car go over 3500 miles w/o an oil change REGARDLESS of oil type - I dont care if its royal purple dank/skank 1Million Its getting changed at 3000miles .
 
the dealers dont allow synthetics under their warranty because those engines off the showrooms havent had a break in yet. synthetics don't allow the rings to completely seat to the cylinder walls. in the long term that makes a huge difference. just an fyi
 
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