Msp is officially dead, where to go from here

[im2bad4ya]

So you can see where my problems started in this thread:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...hile-I-m-doing-50-on-the-hwy-(and-so-can-you)

Long story short, Cylinder 3 is completely dead. There's bits and pieces of metal in the cylinder (I know because I used a magnet to try to fish it out) so I'm pretty sure my block is also dead.

So what can I get for my MSP as it is? It's less than 69K on the car, SSAFC, Injen CAI and front AWR motor mount, 70 duro, Pioneer Single DIN DVD/HD Radio receiver.

I think I'm better off doing an engine swap, but if I can get some money for my car as it sits, I'd rather just sell it.



But if I do go with the engine replacement, are there any good guides to go by? I've tried searching but haven't found any. I know I'm better off buying a regular 2.0 Protege engine and just dropping that in, but any guide or procedure manual would come in handy if there are any on these forums. For those who have done straight engine replacements, how long does it take? Is it essential or even necessary to remove the transmission? Any help is appreciated.

 

[mazda3gboostin]

it will be easier to remove both but u dont have to and sucks bro u just got that dam thing just get either another motor from the junkyard and swap it reg protege will work just need main bearing support plate replaced and oil cooler

 

[jdwk]

I know swapping a used motor in is the cheapest way to go, but I am always worried about the history of a junk yard motor. Definitely check the compression on anything you find.

A non-running MSP is worth 3k tops. A running MSP can go anywhere between 4 and 7 depending on condition. So it is definitely worth your time to get it back in running order.

PG sells used motors for $1200, including shipping to a commercial address. You can probably find them for half that at a yard, but it may not be possible to test them in any way at a yard.

 

[im2bad4ya]

I'm gonna get it back on the road, it just sucks that I got the car in the first place to replace my MX3 which also had a blown motor (for different reasons tho). But gonna go engine shopping locally since I have my dad's pickup truck to haul the engine in, so delivery isn't a concern. I just wanna keep it under $1K for the engine and all associated expenditures if I can help it. I still have $1500 to pay for this damn thing! (sad2)

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

www.mp5t.com

"How To - Rebuild Forged Motor"

 

[im2bad4ya]

www.mp5t.com

"How To - Rebuild Forged Motor"

OOOOOOO How I WISH I had the money to do such work, I just need my car back on the road, but I still haven't found a standard "Swap guide" or "engine replacement guide" on these forums......

anyone?? anyone??

 

[AllthingsJDM]

Im kinda in the same boat, motor took a dive within 2 weeks of buying the car. its now at a local shop and got a new motor straight from mazda. only reason is because the dealer offered to pay half the bill (supposely). The dealer i bought the car from screwed me so hard and sent me on wild goose chases, so, idk what to believe and the "warranty" company that was supposed replace anything that went wrong with the car told me to pretty much blow egg water... so yea thats my story in short. sucks but got a brand new motor on the bright side.

 

[im2bad4ya]

That's awesome (under the circumstances of course)! Unfortunately I bought my car second hand off CL, so there's no dealer or network to go through, I gotta get my engine myself from a junkyard and hope for the best. I've done a motor swap in the past with my MX3, but I also had a nice "how-to" guide that was pretty straight forward, but no such luck finding it on these forums. I'm positive I can figure it out, I just wanted to see the best ways or steps to go by to take on this swap.

 

[AllthingsJDM]

Well i wish ya luck man! check out protege garages used motors, thats what i was originally gunna do.

 

[protege3690]

Any fsde from a 01+ protege or 626 will work. Honestly id say don't worry sooo much about a used engine. I know you can find one for around $500... and save up some more $$$ and forge it to avoid such problems in the future.

 

[jbrewer4639]

Dude, there are 4 different complete msp motors in the fs section right now.

 

[im2bad4ya]

Any fsde from a 01+ protege or 626 will work. Honestly id say don't worry sooo much about a used engine. I know you can find one for around $500... and save up some more $$$ and forge it to avoid such problems in the future.

http://www.jdmenginezone.com/engines/jdm-mazda/
KLZE Straightneck for $850 *Homer Simpson drool* but that's too ambitious for me right now, I'd need a ECU, harness, axles, tranny, etc. I just simply wanna get back on the road. Could you recommend any good junkyards in Jersey or in PA?

Dude, there are 4 different complete msp motors in the fs section right now.

thanks for the heads up, but those arent in my area, don't wanna haggle with shipping, I'd rather pick up local, inspect and know what I'm getting than do a blind date with pics

 

[thepope540]

To the original poster - You'll get nothing for the car without an engine in it. I know because I have a roller here at the house that is in really nice shape and I'm only going to get around $800 for it. The cheaper and easier option is to just put in another FS. The more expensive and difficult is to do a KL swap. I've done it and as far as swaps go its very straightforward. That being said there are a lot of issues that you'll run into and it isn't something to undertake if you can't do the work yourself. Plan on the car being down for at least a month of weekends. If you can focus solely on the project it could be done in a week or so. I had the KL sitting in the car on the motormounts in 3 hours, but it was another 4-5 Saturday's before the car was up and running and then it was several more months before I was happy with the tune. The turbo certainly complicated things, but don't undertake the swap if you aren't 100% confident in your abilities.

 

[im2bad4ya]

To the original poster - You'll get nothing for the car without an engine in it. I know because I have a roller here at the house that is in really nice shape and I'm only going to get around $800 for it. The cheaper and easier option is to just put in another FS. The more expensive and difficult is to do a KL swap. I've done it and as far as swaps go its very straightforward. That being said there are a lot of issues that you'll run into and it isn't something to undertake if you can't do the work yourself. Plan on the car being down for at least a month of weekends. If you can focus solely on the project it could be done in a week or so. I had the KL sitting in the car on the motormounts in 3 hours, but it was another 4-5 Saturday's before the car was up and running and then it was several more months before I was happy with the tune. The turbo certainly complicated things, but don't undertake the swap if you aren't 100% confident in your abilities.

thanks for the info, (tho i've only check this thread since yesterday, I wish I knew what this 'polish lady' fiasco was, but that's not what this thread is about, thnx for getting rid of the clutter).

I've sourced an FS engine locally still inside the P5, with 73K miles for $500, so it looks like I have my engine.

So I guess it's just a matter of "set it and forget it"

I'll take pics when I can of the progress and the final result. I'm just a little scared because I want to get to the bottom of why my engine died in the first place so I can avoid the same problem in the future. Here's my original thread and the blown spark plug:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...hile-I-m-doing-50-on-the-hwy-(and-so-can-you)

And there are still chunks of metal in the head from cylinder 3. The thread to put the spark plug in is stripped, so when I got the new plug all the way in, it kept spinning. If I have the time, I'm gonna remove the head from the blown motor to see what the cylinder looks like.

 

[tweety2300]

I know dsms do that when they begin detonating... Could be numerous causes. Bad gas, timing hiccup, piggy back malfunction. Just to name a few. If you don't have one you need to get a wide band and egt gauge

 

[im2bad4ya]

I know dsms do that when they begin detonating... Could be numerous causes. Bad gas, timing hiccup, piggy back malfunction. Just to name a few. If you don't have one you need to get a wide band and egt gauge

After the swap, I'm gonna keep my driving to a minimum until I invest in a wide band gauge. I have a two pod pillar and already have a boost/vacuum gauge. It's possible that the busted engine is related to my SSAFC, but I'm using the 'Super Stock Map'. We shall see. *fingers crossed*