MS6 Backfire question

Hello total Noob to Turbo's.. Just picked up an 07 MS6.. 6400 miles.. Mazda dealership told me car had been "chipped" (looking into exactly what that means) the car has intake, hks BOV, front mount intercooler.. Runs great but I have noticed a small back fire between 2-3 gear under about half throttle. I went from a GTI VR6 NA motor never had a turbo car does this occur or into the dealership already? Any help would be great Greg
 
I should mention this happens between the gearshift.. not while on the throttle.. small putt, not a big bang.. i was thinking unburnt fuel?? Thanks again Greg
 
your "chipped" probably means that it has either an cobb AccessPort flash on the ECU, or the CP-E standback ECU piggyback. Either way, if not properly set up, can wreak havoc on your car.

the backfire is probably coming from your BOV, if its set to VTA (vent to atmosphere). is there a hose attached to the front of it? if not, you're set to VTA. you may want to get a recirc kit from HKS.
 
your "chipped" probably means that it has either an cobb AccessPort flash on the ECU, or the CP-E standback ECU piggyback. Either way, if not properly set up, can wreak havoc on your car.

the backfire is probably coming from your BOV, if its set to VTA (vent to atmosphere). is there a hose attached to the front of it? if not, you're set to VTA. you may want to get a recirc kit from HKS.

Thank you for the response, I looked at the BOV it does have a clear tube hooked to the front, but the zip tie had slid off.. New zip tie added so we will see. I think finding out exactly what this "chipped" comment meant would be a big help going forward.
 
Not the best pic, but the new addition.

2010-03-20_185956.jpg
 
Just picked up an 07 MS6.. 6400 miles

Very Nice Find! Congrats!

Thank you for the response, I looked at the BOV it does have a clear tube hooked to the front, but the zip tie had slid off.. New zip tie added so we will see. I think finding out exactly what this "chipped" comment meant would be a big help going forward.

I think you want further clarification as to what "chipped" means. It means that the engine's computer or ECU has been altered. This is known as engine "tuning" and there's a section on it here "ECU/Tuning Issues." Check out the FAQ's at the top. For our particular cars, there are only two main tuning options as wannabe described above. You would not be able to tell physically if the car was tuned with an AccessPort (AP), although it's highly likely that if it was tuned with an AP, that your car no longer has that tune and is running on the stock "factory" ECU settings. This is b/c you can't sell an AP that is still associated ("marrried to") a specific car. It's one AP for one car. So he probably unmarried it and sold it.
I know nothing about the standback, so perhaps someone can tell him how to determine if that was used?

If the previous owner knew what he was doing, and the car was tuned right, it's possible that you're car is not running right with those mods with the factory ECU settings. That is, it's not tuned properly for your mods. This is just an educated guess though.


Also, Get a proper clamp for that hose asap!
 
Yea mine backfires sometimes its because my HKS is VTA.. Normal if you run it VTA. I can switch mine back easy to recirc because I already have the line my inlet and it plugged. I just choose not too right now. But if its not VTA and its doing it yea the ECU tune might be the problem
 
Very Nice Find! Congrats!



For our particular cars, there are only two main tuning options as wannabe described above. You would not be able to tell physically if the car was tuned with an AccessPort (AP), although it's highly likely that if it was tuned with an AP, that your car no longer has that tune and is running on the stock "factory" ECU settings. This is b/c you can't sell an AP that is still associated ("marrried to") a specific car. It's one AP for one car. So he probably unmarried it and sold it.
I know nothing about the standback, so perhaps someone can tell him how to determine if that was used?

If the previous owner knew what he was doing, and the car was tuned right, it's possible that you're car is not running right with those mods with the factory ECU settings. That is, it's not tuned properly for your mods. This is just an educated guess though.


Also, Get a proper clamp for that hose asap!

Thank you this is what I was thinking.. If i take the car to Mazda can they tell me if the ECU settings are at stock or not? Are zip ties what i want to be using to clamp those little hoses? I'm sorry to sound so green I just want to do this right the 1st time. I did not noticed the putt-putt today, so finger's crossed. I want to get the most out of the car, Is the Cobb the way to go? Maybe a stage I? Another green question.. under granny driving conditions is it normal to show a vac. on my boost gauge?
 
Thank you this is what I was thinking.. If i take the car to Mazda can they tell me if the ECU settings are at stock or not? Are zip ties what i want to be using to clamp those little hoses? I'm sorry to sound so green I just want to do this right the 1st time. I did not noticed the putt-putt today, so finger's crossed. I want to get the most out of the car, Is the Cobb the way to go? Maybe a stage I? Another green question.. under granny driving conditions is it normal to show a vac. on my boost gauge?

yes.
 
make sure your looking at the right hose... you can ziptie the tiny vacuum hose... but the large hose that goes back into the intake requires a hose clamp
 
make sure your looking at the right hose... you can ziptie the tiny vacuum hose... but the large hose that goes back into the intake requires a hose clamp

I double checked the large hose is firmly clamped. It was the small hose I was referring to, thank you for clarifying. I finally got a good chance to look over the car today. It also has a CP-E Downtube.. With the exhaust mods, front intercooler and intake, if the ECU has been set back to stock is it able to compensate for the Mods or I'm I running a risk? I plan to purchase a Cobb AP but funds not available for another month.. THanks
 
I could probably squeeze out a A/F Gauge in the next week, but I'm tight and hate to keep buying extra gauges.. planning on a DH also.. but I'm unsure of order to buy.
 
I double checked the large hose is firmly clamped. It was the small hose I was referring to, thank you for clarifying. I finally got a good chance to look over the car today. It also has a CP-E Downtube.. With the exhaust mods, front intercooler and intake, if the ECU has been set back to stock is it able to compensate for the Mods or I'm I running a risk? I plan to purchase a Cobb AP but funds not available for another month.. THanks

Damn, I wish my car was all hooked up like that off the lot! I'm not sure how risky it is, but backfiring isn't ideal. Buy that AP asap.

I could probably squeeze out a A/F Gauge in the next week, but I'm tight and hate to keep buying extra gauges.. planning on a DH also.. but I'm unsure of order to buy.

I would say to forget about the gauges and DH and buy your AP first. If you got the DH, yes, you could easily see everything that was going on, but not be able to do anything about it.

If you buy the AP, you can log everything that is going on, as well as tune your car to fix the problems you're having, and improve performance. You should also try to find out if you have the stock fuel pump, or an upgraded one. Hopefully, the upgraded one as you're most likely gonna need it when you're running stage 2 maps with the AP.

So, imho, I'd go with the AP, then fuel pump if not upgraded, and then the DH.
 
Damn, I wish my car was all hooked up like that off the lot! I'm not sure how risky it is, but backfiring isn't ideal. Buy that AP asap.



So, imho, I'd go with the AP, then fuel pump if not upgraded, and then the DH.

I know man honestly I usually don't have a lot of expendable income and with my GTI I never was able to upgrade anything, so the fact that a lot has already been done I'm thankful for. I hadn't thought about the fuel pump.. Good point, any recommendations?
 
I know man honestly I usually don't have a lot of expendable income and with my GTI I never was able to upgrade anything, so the fact that a lot has already been done I'm thankful for. I hadn't thought about the fuel pump.. Good point, any recommendations?

Check your turbo inlet pipe attached to your intake... I'd bet it is not stock, which is good for you... another free mod! lol

As for the fuel pump, first find out what you have. It's possible the previous owner already upgraded it (keep your fingers crossed). CPE makes one that's pre-broken in (street unit or therpmstore sell it), but it ain't cheap $624 (or so) + $300 core deposit, which is refunded when you sent you old pump back. Another option is PTP internals, which are $325 I think, and are sold by the Protege garage. That's a "dyi" job, and I don't know much about it.

I need a upgraded pump asap, but I'm broke atm, and I'm undecided as to what I want. If I can get my buddy to help me, I'll go with the PTP internals because they're less expensive. The car looks nice man, I wish I had that fmic. The car is gonna screw when you get the AP! Find out if you have an upgraded rear diff brace (it would be from Street Unit, or CPE). They are known to FAIL even on stock cars. Don't launch the car until you figure that out. Regardless, with all that power, I'd get that soon as well. So, find out what's going on and what else you have. Hopefully, you already have the pump and rear diff brace.
 
Check your turbo inlet pipe attached to your intake... I'd bet it is not stock, which is good for you... another free mod! lol

As for the fuel pump, first find out what you have. It's possible the previous owner already upgraded it (keep your fingers crossed). CPE makes one that's pre-broken in (street unit or therpmstore sell it), but it ain't cheap $624 (or so) + $300 core deposit, which is refunded when you sent you old pump back. Another option is PTP internals, which are $325 I think, and are sold by the Protege garage. That's a "dyi" job, and I don't know much about it.

I need a upgraded pump asap, but I'm broke atm, and I'm undecided as to what I want. If I can get my buddy to help me, I'll go with the PTP internals because they're less expensive. The car looks nice man, I wish I had that fmic. The car is gonna screw when you get the AP! Find out if you have an upgraded rear diff brace (it would be from Street Unit, or CPE). They are known to FAIL even on stock cars. Don't launch the car until you figure that out. Regardless, with all that power, I'd get that soon as well. So, find out what's going on and what else you have. Hopefully, you already have the pump and rear diff brace.

Is the pump hard to replace because I was thinking about that as a next mod.. Also will it damage the motor or is it just to increase reliability and further your performance gains? Any long term risks with the fuel pump upgrade
 
Check your turbo inlet pipe attached to your intake... I'd bet it is not stock, which is good for you... another free mod! lol

As for the fuel pump, first find out what you have. It's possible the previous owner already upgraded it (keep your fingers crossed). CPE makes one that's pre-broken in (street unit or therpmstore sell it), but it ain't cheap $624 (or so) + $300 core deposit, which is refunded when you sent you old pump back. Another option is PTP internals, which are $325 I think, and are sold by the Protege garage. That's a "dyi" job, and I don't know much about it.

I need a upgraded pump asap, but I'm broke atm, and I'm undecided as to what I want. If I can get my buddy to help me, I'll go with the PTP internals because they're less expensive. The car looks nice man, I wish I had that fmic. The car is gonna screw when you get the AP! Find out if you have an upgraded rear diff brace (it would be from Street Unit, or CPE). They are known to FAIL even on stock cars. Don't launch the car until you figure that out. Regardless, with all that power, I'd get that soon as well. So, find out what's going on and what else you have. Hopefully, you already have the pump and rear diff brace.

I checked the pipe from the intake to the turbo, it stock. Definitely looks like there is room for improvement there. You got me going about the rear diff issue, looks to be a com men piece to replace. I went to look but don't know where to find the rear diff brace on my car, LOL any tip's? I think a engine mount replacement and a bushing kit for the shifter is also on the horizon. I can already notice the clunky 2nd gear thing, and after replacing 2nd gear in my 6spd GTI i would rather nip that in the bud. Damn a lot of little things to think about for my family car!
 
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Is the pump hard to replace because I was thinking about that as a next mod.. Also will it damage the motor or is it just to increase reliability and further your performance gains? Any long term risks with the fuel pump upgrade

Improve reliabilty. You motor will get damaged when the stock one fails and you've got a lot of mods, or are using an AP. No long term risks I've heard or or read about.

I checked the pipe from the intake to the turbo, it stock. Definitely looks like there is room for improvement there. You got me going about the rear diff issue, looks to be a com men piece to replace. I went to look but don't know where to find the rear diff brace on my car, LOL any tip's? I think a engine mount replacement and a bushing kit for the shifter is also on the horizon. I can already notice the clunky 2nd gear thing, and after replacing 2nd gear in my 6spd GTI i would rather nip that in the bud. Damn a lot of little things to think about for my family car!

You can find everything at steet unit.com, therpmstore.com, protegegarage.com and pt-performance.com ... bookmark all of these to keep them handy. I had the second gear 1-2 bulls*** and it drove me nuts. I got the TWM stage 2 shifter with bushings, and Red Line tranny fluid and gear oil. Made a vid to help people like you out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJNvZJ9zLig

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1Fs6MMEGyo

I'm not pro-shifter by any means, but I could never shift as quick as in my vids with that crappy stock set up. I recommend the fluids, TWM shifter (stage 1 or 2.. matter of preference) WITH aluminum base bushings, as well as the redline fluids. I hope that helps.
 
Thanks dougefresh, Great vid. Sites have been bookmarked, thank you. The shifter looks much smoother and like you said looks more fun to drive!!
 
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